If your check engine light is on, click here (pre- '96 only)!

[LethalSavage]

The pedal method doesn't make the CEL stop illuminating, correcting the problem that is indicated does. The CEL blinks like crazy because it is spewing out the problem spelled out in code. You need to read the thread so that you understand how to interpret the blinking and understand what the problem is so that you can correct the fault and stop the CEL from illuminating.

ok i guy i know how the code works what im trying to say is that it doesnt give me a code. it blinks in a non stop pattern non, if i try to read a code it'd be 1111111.....(.)i read i have to make CEL light disappear before doing the trick or else that's what it would do; just blink.

[LethalSavage]

.

[dragon216]

I have a 93 and can never seem to get codes. I tried holding the gas to the floor, but nothing, how long am I supposed to be holding the gas pedal down. I have tried up to about a minute. Does it take longer than that?

I had the same problem the few times I tried. It's about timing, which is very tricky, just keep trying.

[905avinash]

guys my check engine light is on my 1992 325 i bmw and it goes away after a certain time but comes back on when it start up any sugestions also where is the conector to plug in the obd 11 scan tool thxs

[uesername]

what if you get a code that isnt in the columns of codes? my 95 318is gave me code 1238 witch i cant find on there

[95M3blackout]

Resurrecting an old thread.

For doing the stomp test, it is IMPERATIVE that you "stomp" as soon as you hit position #2 with the dashboard lights on. I had forgotten how fast you must be....and was getting irritated that I couldn't get my codes to read out.

Remember...as SOON as the dashboard lights LIGHT... stomp-stomp-stomp-stomp-stomp and you will be rewarded with your car winking back at you.

OBD-I cars only.

THANK YOU FOR THE CLARIFICATION.....havent been able to get it, now I should.....I have a CEL on when in the ignition mode but not when driving, it then turns off/////that right?

[WV Jim]

That's right.

[dok528i]

Make this part of the diy

[Adijax]

It don't work for me. i don't know why, i tried everything like you guys said and nothing. S$$#%&%#^t. I hate it.

[espguitarist]

Just checked mine and got 1444....very cool feature.

[jwc3]

ok i guy i know how the code works what im trying to say is that it doesnt give me a code. it blinks in a non stop pattern non, if i try to read a code it'd be 1111111.....(.)i read i have to make CEL light disappear before doing the trick or else that's what it would do; just blink.

Sounds like you might be confusing the Check Engine light and the Check light. I was initially confused by this, too.

Check Engine light:
Color = Red. Does not blink during normal vehicle operation. If it's on, it's solid. Located to the left of center, along the bottom row of warning lights. If it's on, you can use the stomp-5-times procedure described in this thread to retrieve the stored error codes and diagnose your problem. (On my E30, this light comes on when the car is idling, but goes off as soon as I blip the throttle.)

Check light:
Color = Yellow. Blinks a steady 1111... pattern like the one you described above. Located in the middle of the instrument panel right between the tachometer and the speedometer. This light is telling you there is an error on the warning light panel that is located above the rear view mirror. (For example, low washer fluid.) Press the Check button on that panel and the flashing yellow check light on the instrument cluster will turn off. It will flash again the next time you start the car unless you fix the problem(s) shown on the warning light panel, but you can press the Check button each time you start the car to make the Check light stop flashing.

Hope this helps. I'm still a noob, so feel free to comment if you think this is inaccurate.

[mnkyjzard]

If you have a pre- '96 (OBD1) e36, this trick will work to tell you why your CEL is on. It will even work on e30s:

Turn the ignition on (not the engine, just ignition). The bulb check will come on. Quickly press the gas pedal all the way down and lift all the way up 5 full times. You have to do it quickly.

If you did it right, the CEL will flash once and go out. Then it will begin flashing the fault codes. It will flash in four sequences, representing four numbers. Each sequence will be separated by a short pause of about a second. For example:

Flash (short pause) Flash Flash Flash Flash (short pause) Flash Flash Flash Flash (short pause) Flash Flash Flash Flash (longer pause) indicates a code of 1444. Each number of flashes in each sequences represents the number in the code.

After the long pause at the end of the fourth sequence, it will repeat itself and flash the same code again, unless there is more than one code, in which case it will flash that code in the same pattern. Click here for slightly more detailed instructions and a full list of the fault codes.

Easier than a trip to autozone, and you can find out why your CEL is on in under 5 minutes!

+1 This is a lot of help! I just found out that I had a fault code for my Air Mass/Volume Sensor.

[Big Empty]

Ok need help:
Code 1224: air intake temp sensor.
came on after fiddling with oil filter housing gasket...

[VisualEvolution]

THis is very good info as I am about to purchase a used 95 325ic that the check engine light is on and the owner is telling me its the O2 censor. The car is at my mechanic right now getting looked over before i fork out the 4,500

[SnowDrift318]

man i'm glad i found this. i have 1 question though. Why, If i come up with a 1444 code (meaning nothing is wrong) does my check engine light stay on while the car is on...????

If it never turns off, how will i be able to know if something does go wrong (in which the light would usually come on)

All aside, I was glad to get the 1444 code. hehe

[e36138vadered]

great great life saving stuff

[Dreadful e36]

i attempted this in my e36 and not only did it not work, but now my transmission control module light is on. yet another god forsaken indicator light on my dashboard to add to the abs and cel. i put so much hope in her, and everyday she disappoints me more and more.

[E30forsure]

not working for my e36 or e30, ill try again.

one question, if ews2 i sfried, or not in sync will codes still read?

no spark no fuel problem, all relays, fuse 18 good, manual power confirms good gas pump.

[Umpire]

OK, read the instructions, have now tried probably 10 times to do the stomp test and no luck. Have stomped fast, slow, held down at 5 and let off at 5......any suggestions

[Grover041589]

Didn't work for me on my 93 325is...but then again nothing works right on my car.

Will try the hold down as mentioned.

[heifetz17]

Don't hold the pedal down. Make sure they key is in position 2 (ignition on). When the key is turned to position 2, you'll immediately see all the warning lights come on for the bulb check. IMMEDIATELY start pressing the gas pedal down. You have only 5 seconds or so to mash the pedal all the way down and up 5 times.

Make sure you're mashing it all the way down, not just part of the way. Also make sure you're letting it all the way up. When I was doing this, I would hold my foot just above the pedal, but not touching the pedal, and I would slam my foot down as far as the pedal would go, and then lift my foot back off the pedal.

You have to do this 5 times in about 5 seconds for it to work. The timer starts as soon as the ignition is turned on, so don't waste any time.

And for the people with '96s that can't get this to work, it's because your car is an OBD-II. This will only work with OBD-I up to '95.

[smbstyle]

I tried this with my 95 M3, and the bulb check doesn't come on when I turn the ignition on??? Any idea?

[BMWMPow3r]

hopnig someone can help.
I've used the pedal trick on my car many times before.

this time when the cel came on, I am unable to do it.
the cel goes on in key position 2 and stays on.

I think it may be my ecu. Car runs alittle different too.

This happened after I installed an amp in the trunk. I made sure all connections were right. I'm thinking maybe I messed up a ground under the rear seat, but I don't think that has to do with the ecu.

there was the small typical spark when I connected the lead of the amp to the battery pos. terminal. you think that could've shorted the ecu? I basically left the terminal on and unscrewed the clamping bolt then slid on the amp lead and tightened bolt up.

[Seeker]

not one mention in here that you MUST have the doors closed to get it to work.

at least that's the way it is for my '93

without fail.. anytime I try to do the stomp test with a door open, it wont do a thing.. close the doors and it immediatly works

[BMWMPow3r]

i've tried everything , but a scan tool.