Wally, how do you adjust the bearing play?
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Last edited by DavidD123; 10-18-2015 at 11:17 AM.
Check out the on-line store at http://eurometric.com
If interested please put your name below, I'll add payment info later tonight:
1) laguna30 looking for 3 sets ( Jesse - look for an order coming your way soon )
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4)
etc etc
When I first put it all together, I used the service manual procedure where you tighten it to (whatever the spec was) to seat the bearings, back it off, then torque to 3 nm all while rotating the wheel. Seemed tight but the bearings were freshly packed with grease. I ran them for 500+ miles and re-checked and that's when they seemed "looser" but still playable as noted in my previous post.
So this time I just did it by feel, like I've done for the last 30+ years with the intent on getting them as tight as possible. I tightened them until I could feel drag, then backed the nut off, then kept tightening the nut while rotating the wheel until I got it to where I could feel just a tiny amount of movement while pushing and pulling the top and bottom of the wheel/tire back and forth. The holes didn't line up precisely, so I went in the loose direction until the nearest one did, which was fractions of a turn.
Before screwing with them this time, they were on the middle to looser end of where I typically run bearings and now they are on the tight end of where I usually run.
I planned on using the manual "3 nm torque" procedure yesterday to see what that did so I could take this car to the track but "reality got all up in my face" (meaning work) so I didn't have time and I will be driving the 911 to the track today. Oh well, next time...
- - - Updated - - -
Obviously I will try a set. Wally509.
"Wally" Casten - 1956 Austin-Healey 100, 1985 M-B 300SD, 1987 911 Carrera, 1997 Triumph T509
"The more things change, the more they SUCK" -Butt-Head (Mike Judge)
With brake calipers off,Front wheel bearing adjust. after knocking out the races, installing new ones and packing the hub with grease,back seal install, attach rotor to hub and secure with allen screw(locktite blue), you spin the rotor and hub on the stub axle as you tightened the castled nut, keep going until you reach a stop or 20-22 ft lbs,loosen up castled nut, torque to 2 ft/lbs or 24 in/lb then loosen castled nut to nearest stub axle hole and put carter key or pin in, ect.
If you want to get exact end play--you use a feeler gauge in between the bearing face and the one tooth-washer and then tightened castled nut till its hard to remove, then carter pin or key thru the open holes, your end play is set.
Randy
Not exactly sure what you mean by this. My Eurometric.com on-line store is open to everyone all the time, no group-buys are needed, unless you were talking about getting on the list for a shimmy spacer.
By the way... Don't I still have a pair of bumper tuck brackets of yours from years ago?
I'm guessing he's going to order some other things from you.
I'll post a link to the order page soon. Had to clean up a few things.
1975 2002 - Swap in Progress
1982 320i - Well Loved
1982 323i - Cooler than first appearance
1988 M5 - The Original
Here's the link to order the anti-shimmy bushings: http://www.tinkerengineering.com/pro...ti-shimmy-kit/
Excuse the site, it's still a work in progess. I'll also have some 'Alpina' front chassis braces made up in the near future for those looking.
Also just a heads up, the Polyurethane didn't arrive in time for the weekend, so I won't be able to make them until this coming week. For those that order they will still ship out by the end of the week, but it may not reach you by Friday depending on where you are in the country.
1975 2002 - Swap in Progress
1982 320i - Well Loved
1982 323i - Cooler than first appearance
1988 M5 - The Original
For what it's worth. I still have a shimmy in my e21 after having replaced rotor's, bearings, CAB, steering rack bushings. I have 3 sets of wheels and tires, all three with quality rubber and static balanced by me. I have not replaced the sway bar/body bushings but they are as solid as can be with no play. Nothing has made a bit of difference. I had thought a few years ago it could be the u joint in the steering shaft so I replaced that. It made no difference so I swapped it back out. I will try the sway/body bushings because why not, but Iv'e accepted the fact that it is what it is. Unfortunate as my 2 previous e21's had no shimmy whatsoever.
hey Brent, I seem to recall a recent post about the adjustments that can be made to the steering rack so as to take out the slop/play. I wonder if you could be a candidate for needing this adjustment?
I have developed a 65 mph shimmy. can't say exactly when it happened, but seemed to come on and get noticeable after H&R lowering springs with bilstein sports, new control arms with poly and most recently new tires. I'm going to replace the front sway bushings and may even buy a set of these anti-shimmy spacers to have on hand to try.
mostly, I've just learned to live with it and either get to the north or south of 65 mph!
**found it: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...=steering+rack
last post (#21)
Last edited by sbcrockett; 10-19-2015 at 09:45 AM.
Update for those interested, the material came in today. I'll make a few sets after work today and post the final product.
1975 2002 - Swap in Progress
1982 320i - Well Loved
1982 323i - Cooler than first appearance
1988 M5 - The Original
btw, just a follow up to my shimmy. I checked the driver side bearing on my car and it was very loose from wear. I was able to snug it up a little but it will have to be replaced soon. the good news is that after snugging it up, the shimmy was almost eliminated. just goes to show that you have to check and then circle back after a while and check again! but the shimmy CAN be eradicated, even if only for a short time, until the next component wears out!
1981 BMW 320i, Ascot Grey with Tan Leatherette, 137K, 5 speed, K&N filter, Ansa Exhaust, Bilstein HD's, Rota RB's, Bumper Tuck.
2013 BMW 535i M Sport, Arctic Silver with Black interior.
1966 Ford Mustang Convertible 289 cc, 56K, Dark Grey on Black, Styled steel wheels, C4 Automatic.
1014 Porsche Cayman S, Black on Black
Bearings were the final piece of the puzzle for me.
After having refreshed:
- upper strut mounts/bearings.
- steering rack bushes in urethane
- new stock lower control arms.
- new stock sway-to-frame bushes.
- Bilstein shocks w/ H&R springs
- front strut brace.
- wheels and tires.
Finally ... did the bearings, and bingo.
Eric P.
I’m not trying to be a jerk here, just trying to learn about bushing reproduction. You took a used part off your car and measured it to reproduce the new ones? How do you know it isn’t mashed/munched down from the original height from use? I would assume the flexible material, whether it be rubber or polyurethane gets pressed up against the back of the control arm to preload it and that amount of crush/preload is somewhat critical to operation.
Please correct me if I’m wrong, again, just trying to learn.
"Wally" Casten - 1956 Austin-Healey 100, 1985 M-B 300SD, 1987 911 Carrera, 1997 Triumph T509
"The more things change, the more they SUCK" -Butt-Head (Mike Judge)
Thanks for the order. It should go out today or tomorrow.
No worries, you're mostly on the right track. I didn't point it out in my post, but the measurements I took off of the bushings that came with me car were just a reference/ballpark (things like OD, overall thickness etc). I also measured the other components it would interface with so I could have a clear picture of how everything goes together, and to ensure that the bushing does what it's suppose to. All of that, along with the picture dspulv1 posted of the 'as new' BavAuto bushings made it fairly simple to reverse-engineer the profile. When they are installed the rubber on the outer washer preloads the anti-shimmy bushing, causing it to 'cup' around the bushing in the control arm. This, along with the tapered inner surface helps keep everything where it wants to be.
Lastly, I removed the Bav Auto kit from my car and confirmed that it DID shimmy. Then I installed the newly made bushings to make sure it went away again, which it did.
1975 2002 - Swap in Progress
1982 320i - Well Loved
1982 323i - Cooler than first appearance
1988 M5 - The Original
Cool, sounds good. One thing is you mention "When they are installed the rubber on the outer washer preloads the anti-shimmy bushing, causing it to 'cup' around the bushing in the control arm.", the rear washers on my control arms at the sway bar bushing don't have rubber on them, only the ones on the front do. The actual bavauto instructions show these going between the rear washers and the control arm. Help?
"Wally" Casten - 1956 Austin-Healey 100, 1985 M-B 300SD, 1987 911 Carrera, 1997 Triumph T509
"The more things change, the more they SUCK" -Butt-Head (Mike Judge)
Interesting, looking at the diagrams I can find online along with pictures of # 31351121465 it looks like the rear washer shouldn't have any rubber on it. The PO of my car must have installed 'inner' washers in both locations. I'll flip them around (so that they act like plain washers) and see if it makes any difference in how they operate. I'll be surprised if there is much difference, once the nut is tightened down nothing is going anywhere lol.
1975 2002 - Swap in Progress
1982 320i - Well Loved
1982 323i - Cooler than first appearance
1988 M5 - The Original
Nice to see someone is making the alpina bar, got mine from bmac rip.
Randy
Order placed. Will go into my parts stash for the upcoming suspension refresh. Thanks for putting this together.
Finished up the first batch tonight. Had a bit a trouble with the surface finish at first, but got that sorted. Shipping out two sets now, I have 3 additional ones ready to go and will be making more stock this weekend.
I'm currently running these on my car now and the difference is night and day compared to just the stock setup.
Last edited by tinkwithanr; 10-27-2015 at 07:32 PM.
1975 2002 - Swap in Progress
1982 320i - Well Loved
1982 323i - Cooler than first appearance
1988 M5 - The Original
Those look really good! I just ordered a set. Thanks.
_________
1980 320i - Kashmir Metallic - Sold in 1993
1985 535i - Cosmosblau Metallic - Sold in 1995
1985 535i - 1985-06 - Delphin Metallic - Sold in 2016
1983 320i - 1982-09 - Kashmir Metallic - Currently own!
2004 ZHP - 2003-08 - Titanium Metallic - Currently own!
2000 M5 - 2000-02 Titanium Silver - Currently own!
Thanks! I'll try and get it shipped out tomorrow.
1975 2002 - Swap in Progress
1982 320i - Well Loved
1982 323i - Cooler than first appearance
1988 M5 - The Original
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