Just had the car aligned. I'm running Michelin Pilot Sports 245/40's all around with about -2.5 deg front camber, -1.8 rear camber and roughly 0 front toe. The Pilots stick pretty well for street tires and are pretty quiet, possibly because they have relatively flexible sidewalls. Unfortunately, as a result, the turn in isn't nearly as crisp as I'd like - there's just a little bit of latency in the response from turning the wheel to the car actually turning in. Any tire (or suspension) recommendations to get more immediate turn-in? BTW, Thunderhill is the intended application...
99 NSX-Z SC (360 RWHP)
95 Dinan S3 M3 (355 RWHP)
You have a number of options.
If you have two sets of rims then I would get a set of R compound tires. You will get vastly better turn in and grip. I currently run Kumho V700 Escta's.
For street / Track tires then you may want to look at an BFG KD, S03, or the new Toyo.
You can also improve the turn in a bit by softening the front struts if that will not cause you other handling problems.
2002 E46 M3 SMG II (46 SM, retired)
2005 Lotus Elise (46 SS, pushrod hunting)
Besides the tire change, try the OEM X-brace, this is a nice and cheap upgrade that actually works. A little bit of toe helps in the rear also for turn in (.1 to .2).
Matt Williams -
Current - 01 LSB M3
Past - #21 GTS-3 -
95 Alpine White/Yellow M3 - Stock, except for the stuff that isn't
You can also try some spacers up front to get a litle more track width. Jay
From wannabe to has been in a few short years..... the older I get, the faster I was
You can always start a little toe-out, that'll get that sucker turning. For street tires, you can play with pressures a little bit to optimize their stiffness, but you'll probably end up with less overall grip doing that.
The other thing is more technique-related. If you coodinate your braking along with your turning, you'll have more traction on the front wheels, and can turn in much harder since there will be more weight on them.
I drove my M3 at Thunderhill for the first time a few weeks ago. Let us know how things go!
Holy crap, I was running .25 toe out for a while, and the car would dive into a corner like a go-kart. It was incredible.Originally posted by Kos-motate139
You can always start a little toe-out, that'll get that sucker turning.
One other note, to maximize turn in, run wheels that are at the max of the width range of the given tire size you are running. Running 8.5" rims with Kumho V700 Rcomps in the 235 width provides other-worldly turn-in response. The wider the rim, the higher the effective stiffness of the sidewall . . .
In the slow lane
Thanks guys, lot's of great suggestions. For those of you who have tried toe out up front, how did that affect high speed stability? (Cheaper to adjust the alignment than to replace a set of relatively new tires!)
99 NSX-Z SC (360 RWHP)
95 Dinan S3 M3 (355 RWHP)
My 318 runs 215/45x16s with 16x8s. Nice and stiff.Originally posted by frayed
One other note, to maximize turn in, run wheels that are at the max of the width range of the given tire size you are running. Running 8.5" rims with Kumho V700 Rcomps in the 235 width provides other-worldly turn-in response. The wider the rim, the higher the effective stiffness of the sidewall . . .
Toe-out will effect high-speed stability, but it's not too hard to change it at the track.
Has anyone tried reducing caster to help turn-in? There's theoretically some value to be had here, also at the expense of high-speed stability. :
I don't know what car you have or what mods you've done, but you can also try stiffening up the rear sway bar, or adding a little more spring in the back. Less rebound in the rear shocks, or more compression in the front should help, too.
Jim
Less rebound in the rear?
In the slow lane
It's a 95 M3 Dinan S3 signature vehicle (stage 3 Dinan suspension with fr. camber plate, front strut bar, X-brace, Fikse wheels, short shifter, tranmission brace, and SC+aftercooler). Full soft front sway and full stiff rear sway settings already. I'll be running with the NSX club and those things have really good turn-in because of their stock front toe-out, stiff sidewall rubber, low polar moment, and not much mass up front...Originally posted by Jim O.
I don't know what car you have or what mods you've done, but you can also try stiffening up the rear sway bar, or adding a little more spring in the back. Less rebound in the rear shocks, or more compression in the front should help, too.
Jim
99 NSX-Z SC (360 RWHP)
95 Dinan S3 M3 (355 RWHP)
Is that Enigma from LS1.COM?
Chris (former Incon TT Z28 owner)
'97 M3 Coupe
'95 M3 LTW
Yup. My thinking is that under braking the back end will come up faster (since less rebound will let the rear springs extend faster), putting more weight on the front wheels.Originally posted by frayed
Less rebound in the rear?
Jim
You'll be replacing those tires sooner than you want if you run toe out. Toe out will scrub the inside edges off those tires big time. Unless, you reset toe after your track events. JayOriginally posted by Number9
Thanks guys, lot's of great suggestions. For those of you who have tried toe out up front, how did that affect high speed stability? (Cheaper to adjust the alignment than to replace a set of relatively new tires!)
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