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Thread: Low clutch pedal after LWFW & M3 clutch swap

  1. #1
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    Low clutch pedal after LWFW & M3 clutch swap

    I just upgraded the 98 323is to a leightweight flywheel and a M3 clutch. I also went with a M3 slave cylinder.

    I bled the clutch hydraulics with a power bleeder and two person push the pedal, open/close the bleeder valve. But the pedal is very low.

    I think I still have air in the system, but I wondered if anyone with the same setup noticed a difference in the engagement point with the M3 setup? Should it be much lower than stock?

    Thanks in advance.
    Steve
    2001 530i/5 S+P CDV delete/Akebono ceramic pads/M5 SSK/RedLine MTL/M5 rear sway bar
    BMWCCA Member #337964

  2. #2
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    bump
    that's interesting, I will do the same on my 318is and someone has it on his car...
    It's a common problem?

  3. #3
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    I think you have air in it, too. Somewhat lower than before is ok, but not so that it's near the floor.

    I got a bad slave when I had mine done, and the engagement was low. Then it died and wouldn't disengage at all. Even after the slave was replaced, the engagement was lower than with my old stock 325 clutch. About 1500 miles later, the engagement has moved up to where it used to be with the original clutch, and it feels really good. But I was surprised at how long it took to break in.

  4. #4
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    with my AA ltw flywheel i had to replace my fork..not sure what brand you have or if you have to do the same..

    will it go into gear? or when you engauge it does it just go to the floor and stay there?

    if it stays on the floor, then you have air in the system. I'd also check the with the company and see if you need to use a different fork.

    i did the swap on my 325, and had the same problem, i switched back to a 325 slave, and it was fixed. i like the way the 325 slave/m3 ltw fly, clutch feels...

  5. #5
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    Clutch engages/disengages about 1" - 1.5" from the floor? Pedal comes back quick though right?

    If so, this will go away real quick. Mine probably stayed at the floor for a week. I was about to take it back apart and shim the flywheel then all of the sudden it started working a little over half way let out. I do not like either of the two heights and wish it was in the middle. Now it is so high it feels like the floor should be a lot closer to the pedal lol but I guess that is why everyone uses clutch stops.

    If the pedal comes back quick and is not mushy then it is bled fine already. If the Clutch is just engaging/disengaging real low then it will probably go away soon but bleeding will not have an effect on the clutch itself.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by nuvola rossa
    bump
    that's interesting, I will do the same on my 318is and someone has it on his car...
    It's a common problem?
    Is that an ///M badge on your 318?

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the replies.

    I beld the system with both the two person and pressure bleeder methods again and there is no change. The clutch fully disengages maybe 2 or 3 inches from the floor.

    The flywheel is a Fidanza. The clutch kit is Sachs. The combo feels great - smooth with a very positive engagement. Apparently I got it aligned correctly.

    DTM, I will check with Fidanza about using a different clutch lever and if it doesn't come up I will consider using a different slave cylinder. Is it much stiffer?

    BMdub325is and Maxell0405, thanks fo the insight. You got the diagnosis right - I'll see if this happens with mine.

    BTW, the starter is making a wierd sound too. Anybody notice this too?
    Steve
    2001 530i/5 S+P CDV delete/Akebono ceramic pads/M5 SSK/RedLine MTL/M5 rear sway bar
    BMWCCA Member #337964

  8. #8
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    I forgot to mention that I swapped out the transmission fluid for Royal Purple MaxGear 75W90 gear oil, too. I think it has improved shifting a bit, but the shifting was good before. IMHO, the synchros mesh sooner.

    BTW, I checked the "lifetime" transmission oil and it was about an inch below the filler plug. No leaks that I know of. Maybe you don't need to change it, but you should at least check it.
    Steve
    2001 530i/5 S+P CDV delete/Akebono ceramic pads/M5 SSK/RedLine MTL/M5 rear sway bar
    BMWCCA Member #337964

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beamin'
    Is that an ///M badge on your 318?
    Its a "Motorsport 318".


  10. #10
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    it's a little stiffer then a stock m3, however i kinda like a stiffer clutch..

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimmerboy328i
    Its a "Motorsport 318".

    I didnt know they made a M3...18

  12. #12
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    Steve, is the clutch grabbing any higher yet?

  13. #13
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    Thanks for asking, BMdub325is.

    Not yet. It's driveable, just a lot lower than it was. As a matter of fact, my son has the car on a trip now (can't keep him at home for long), I'll check it when he returns and see if it's started to get higher.
    Steve
    2001 530i/5 S+P CDV delete/Akebono ceramic pads/M5 SSK/RedLine MTL/M5 rear sway bar
    BMWCCA Member #337964

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by DTM325
    i did the swap on my 325, and had the same problem, i switched back to a 325 slave, and it was fixed. i like the way the 325 slave/m3 ltw fly, clutch feels...
    so when i upgrade my clutch i can use my 325i slave cylinder and just get an M3 clutch? everything ive read before this says u need the M3 slave as well.

  15. #15
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    M3 slave makes the M3 clutch easier to press. Leaving the 325 one will make it feel more sporty (harder to press). I have the M3 one in but should have stayed with the 325 one and saved 50$

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by luv4myE36
    so when i upgrade my clutch i can use my 325i slave cylinder and just get an M3 clutch? everything ive read before this says u need the M3 slave as well.

    The issue is the amount of force it takes to operate the clutch. The M3 clutch is larger and stiffer. The M3 clutch cylinder makes it easier to operate the clutch.

    You might try using the 325 slave cylinder. If you find it too stiff for your taste, you can swap to a M3 slave cylinder.

    BTW, remember you'll also need a M3 flywheel to go with that new clutch.

    EDIT: BMdub325 beat me to it.
    Steve
    2001 530i/5 S+P CDV delete/Akebono ceramic pads/M5 SSK/RedLine MTL/M5 rear sway bar
    BMWCCA Member #337964

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMDub325is
    Steve, is the clutch grabbing any higher yet?
    I just checked the clutch engagement point. It hasn't change much, if it any. I guess I'll wait and see what happens.
    Steve
    2001 530i/5 S+P CDV delete/Akebono ceramic pads/M5 SSK/RedLine MTL/M5 rear sway bar
    BMWCCA Member #337964

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve530
    ...BTW, the starter is making a wierd sound too. Anybody notice this too?

    Thought I'd add a post to tell everyone what I found.

    I finally got the intake manifold off today and had a good look at the starter. Turns out that the pin that is supposed to aling the starter was not in the hole. So, the starter was sort of cocked. I imagine just the starter gear was just catching the ring gear. I managed to remove the bolts and get it on straight. The noise has gone away.

    And the clutch pedal does seem a little higher now.

    The LWFW makes the engine rev much faster. No prblems with the chugging noise at idle that some people report. All in all this is a good mod, you just got to get the starter on straight.
    Steve
    2001 530i/5 S+P CDV delete/Akebono ceramic pads/M5 SSK/RedLine MTL/M5 rear sway bar
    BMWCCA Member #337964

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