all of the writeups i've read online say to cut right below the weld. on my strut, there doesnt seem to be any weld. should i still try to cut about 22mm from the top edge?
i have attached a pic; can someone use it as a reference to suggest where i should cut?
thanks
I cut off about this much...
Dinan supercharged
did you use a hacksaw? i am thinking of starting with the dremel, and then continuing and finishing with a hacksaw.
also, i don't have anything to hold the strut in place; i'm worried about drilling the bottom hole off center. does anyone have any suggestions for making the hole?
thanks again guys
The hole doesn't need to be perfectly centered. Just center it by eye, and enlarge it until you can insert the bolt into the end of the strut insert.Originally Posted by Loud_TIGER
I started cutting with a hack saw, but it was going pretty slow. I ended up using an angle grinder - much faster.
'08 328i E92, '05 330i ZHP, '04 X3 3.0, '96 DASC 318is (gone), '96 M3 AA C38 (gone), '07 335i (gone)
damit, why didn't I think of that?!?!!!?! We were using my buddies cutoff wheel on his air compressor. The compressor didn't have enough balls, so we'd cut, wait for it to fill, cut, wait for it to fill.Originally Posted by calypso
I tried using my pipe cutter, but with the flange on the outside of the strut, I couldn't get it low enough to actually cut it free.
Cut just below the crimped area. An angle grinder with a 4" cutoff wheel slices through that tube like butter.
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yeah, that's what I used.Originally Posted by bimmer95
I'd be careful about centering the hole. I drilled mine slightly offcenter and nearly stripped the threads on the insert trying to get the bolt in. Overall, what a PITA.
I originally cursed Koni for not making a real strut for the e36 m3. But, after losing the the upper thru-bolt this weekend while driving on the track, I'm grateful that only the strut got damaged and I'll be able to reuse the shock. Remeber to torque the bolts! I'm not certain if losing the bolt was my fault or the alignment shop's fault. I'd like to blame the shop since I was using the torque wrench after I put in the Koni inserts.
Dammit, I HAVE an angle grinder and didn't think to bring it to my buddy's house for the install. I tried a Dremel cutoff wheel but that was slow as hell, they just aren't made for large projects. Ended up using a hacksaw, not too bad, but not like an angle grinder ...Originally Posted by bimmer95
Like he says, cut just below where it curves over. No need to go the 22 mm or whatever the koni instructions say.
And be aware that you may have to use the bottom bolt to pull the insert down into the bottom of the housing. Mine would not go all the way down until I cranked on that bolt while my buddy held the housing. If you have to do that, don't use the lock washer until you have the strut completely seated in the bottom of the housing, then pull the bolt, put the lock washer on and torque the bolt to the proper spec.
As far as centering the bolt hole, I thought I centered them perfectly, but both were off. I had to use the Dremel to enlarge the hole in the direction of the threads
Last edited by M3 Pete; 05-17-2005 at 06:36 PM.
97 Estoril/Black M3/4/5
"Although we've experienced an M3 sedan with an automatic, our test car came fitted as God intended, with a 5-speed manual ..."
Road & Track May 1997, testing the M3 Sedan
4 hours later, and i couldn't get the insert all the way down to the edge of the housing. i banged on it with a hammer on top, pulled it in with the bolt... just wouldn't do it. i ended up just screwing the whole thing together. it's still a little off, but i figure it shouldnt affect the suspension in any way, right?
i hope the next one goes faster...
i used a hacksaw and a dremel. they did not slice through the tube like butter. lol.Originally Posted by bimmer95
Hit the bottom of the strut housing against a HARD surface (concrete, steel anvil, etc). Momentum will drive the insert all the way in to the tube.Originally Posted by Loud_TIGER
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I had to use this just to get it where I could get the bolt onto the insert, then cranked the insert down with the bolt. (I hit the bottom of the housing on a 2x4 laying on concrete). Then I had to use some serious torque on that bolt to get it all the way down, on both struts. My buddy held the very top of the insert with a pipe wrench, using some rubber to keep it from digging into the metal.Originally Posted by bimmer95
97 Estoril/Black M3/4/5
"Although we've experienced an M3 sedan with an automatic, our test car came fitted as God intended, with a 5-speed manual ..."
Road & Track May 1997, testing the M3 Sedan
I just bought some Koni's and this thread is making me think it was a bad idea.
Don't worry about it, it's really an easy install.Originally Posted by BMitchW 323is
www.understeer.com Your source for:
Stromung|UUC|Eurosport|Hawk|H&R|Koni|Apexcone HID|Short Shift Kits|and moreUUC Evo3 SSKs are IN STOCK - free 2-Day shipping!
Well, I think *easy* is pushing it, but I wouldn't say it's terribly difficult. Don't worry about being exact with the cutting - taking off as much as an inch won't matter at all. I'd worry more about taking off enough than taking off too much.Originally Posted by bimmer95
The drilled hole in the bottom, however, should be as close to the center as possible. I drilled 2 of mine more off-center than they should have been, and I had to use a sanding bit on the Dremel to enlarge the holes to align the holes with the threaded holes in the bottom of the struts.
For those of you having trouble getting the strut in the housing, there are bumps inside the housing that need to be filed down for the strut to fit in easily. They are hard to see and even harder to feel, but they are there and can be filed down smooth.
Hope this helps...
97 M3 - Estoril Blue 5spd Coupe
Sound: 60GB Video iPod into Nakamichi CD-400, CDT Audio HD-642, RE Audio SE10, Phoenix Gold Xenon 600.1 and 200.2
Handling: Koni SA, Eibach Pro-Kit, front strut bar, 245/35/18 Yokohama S.drive on RO_JA Formula 7, Rogue RSMs, GC RTAB shims
Performance: Akebono Euro Ceramic pads, Zimmermann x-drilled rotors, DIY K&N CAI, ASC delete, Understeer SSK, UUC TMEs + clutch stop
Appearance: OEM clears, rear lip spoiler
You need to cut 22mm like the Koni instructions say. You also need to use a rat tail file to file down the inside where the sway bar mount is welded on. I happen to do the cut and gut for people. If you want it done, email me john @ team-car.com
Here's a pic for reference (cut, gut, cleaned and painted):
+ 1, it's not hard. but it takes a while and it helps to have good tools.Originally Posted by scoutmasterdave
Use tool Lisle 31530 to cut the housing just below the crimps.
Last edited by bluptgm3; 03-23-2019 at 02:57 PM.
Old post, but good tip for anyone doing this in the future. I used a pneumatic cutoff wheel and a dremel afterwards to deburr it.
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