Yeah, that would be something I would look into under these circumstances. I just had my shop pull my pan and check the oil pump. Everything was cool, but they locktited that bad boy down so that its not coming off until the motor gets rebuilt in another 100k miles....hopefully...Originally Posted by ///MacDaddy
The operation may have cost some cash but a lot less than a $4k-10K motor....
2005 M3
“Auto racing, bull fighting, and mountain climbing are the only real sports … all others are games.” - Ernest Hemingway
phil,
if you go 3.2 would be interested in selling the 3.0? please get back to me. thanks
yah, I saw that a couple of days ago.. thanks for letting me know. . I think I'd still rather get a s52 though....Originally Posted by ///MacDaddy
yah, thats what I wish I would have done... its well worth it. Next engine I get thats the first thing im going to do.Originally Posted by WytLytnyn
If it turns out that there is internal damage that would wind up costing me a grand or two then I'll most likely go with the s52. I still have to see whats up with the s50. Im going to open her up, take a look at the internals, check the oil pump (fix the nut) and get an idea of the damege (If there is some, which im sure there is). All I know right now is my light went on, it was driven for about a mile, engine stalled twice but still turned on, and it hasnt seized up.Originally Posted by e30sd
Didnt you help Kim swap her engine? If I wind up doing this I will be PM'ing you about any advice you could give me and If I do get rid of it I will let you know.
-phill F.- 10/95 Avus E36
yeah i did. keep me up to date.
*Cough* Did the swap himself *Cough*Originally Posted by phillyB///M3
Steve
I had this happen to me a while back, I was running a crank pulley. Not knowingly I drove the car about a mile or two with the light on... I was extremely lucky there was no engine damage. The problem is nobody really knows about this until it happens to them and they do a search on the forums and find out "great, I probably just destroyed my motor". If I were to do things again, I would never have put on that crank pulley, and I would have shut the engine off immediately and called a tow truck. Now I'll never now how much those few minutes without oil pressure shortened the life of my engine even though it ran fine afterwards.
Dinan 2.5 E30 M3
haha.. I guess I heard a diffrent story...Originally Posted by slcook54
Wow from what I've read about other situations you must be one of the lucky ones. Lets hope mine isnt looking to bad but I'm expecting the worst, that way I wont be disapointed.Originally Posted by Mini-Bubba
-phill F.- 10/95 Avus E36
*Cough* Doesn't know what the ** he's talking about *Cough*Originally Posted by slcook54
Go check your hose clamps again Steve, I think they might be old.
Last edited by jayhudson; 04-29-2005 at 01:02 PM.
'94 325is #94 IP/GTS3 Mauritius Blue Metallic
"And so you touch this limit, something happens and you suddenly can go a little bit further. With your mind power, your determination, your instinct, and the experience as well, you can fly very high." - Ayrton Senna
smoketacular!
i think someone got mormowned
What brand and weight of oil were you running? I've heard of similar situations in SCCA Club racing where a guy lost all his oil pressure running Syn Royal Purple (Mazda 13B non turbo engine) near the very end of the race, finished the race, pulled the engine and found ZERO engine damage.Originally Posted by adsingl
I think the quality and type of engine oil can majorly effect the outcome of an oil-pump-nut failure.
1995 M3/2/5 : non-lux alpine white III on black
2013 GX460 4x4 : knights pearl on black
1997 Ram 3/4T 12v cummins turbo diesel : titanium silver on gray
Castrol Syntec Blend - 5 qts 5w30, 1+ qt 5w50 full synthetic Castrol.Originally Posted by RotaryBzzz
can't recall how many miles it had on it when I had the Blackstone analysis done, but besides no metal they commented that the oil had no significant degradation. So yeah, I still use it!
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Geez, easy on the profanity, this is indeed a public forum. No worries about the hose clamps. I put some Hyundai ones on there, they should hold better. Mormowned.Originally Posted by 94is
Any word Phill?
Last edited by jayhudson; 04-29-2005 at 01:02 PM.
Steve
NoOriginally Posted by BMuu
Originally Posted by 96cosmosM3
Michael McCoy TRM
No.Originally Posted by BMuu
Garrett
nice...Originally Posted by Mad Dog 20/20
read these.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=350278
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=349153
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=349633
Actually, a bunch of other things for you to read. but whatever. You're one of the people that said things like "nuts don't vibrate loose". You've got an awful lot to learn before you even approach almost understanding the concepts.
When you build your basic foundation of understanding of harmonics, just basics mind you, we can try again. Seeing as you still don't know what the harmonic damper does or how it does it or any of those, its easy to see why you are still so lost.
Michael McCoy TRM
no one reads the white papers?
http://dinancars.com/whitepapersFile.asp?ID=5
Unfortunately reading and understanding are not the same thing. They have been "exposed" to that and more. They just are unable to comprehend it.Originally Posted by e30sd
Michael McCoy TRM
quick question....how often does this oil pump nut problem occur and are there any mods that lead to it? or is just mileage? also, how much does it cost to fix it before the problem occurs?
1998 Titanium Silver M3
I'm pretty sure the underdrive pulley is what causes the oil pump nut to fall off cause of excessive vibration.
Calm down killer... lolOriginally Posted by 94is
Damn.. I was running 5w-30 Mobil 1 for the longest, I beleive they dont have any additives so I'm guessing thats bad news for me.Originally Posted by RotaryBzzz
Nothing yet.. i've been to busy with school and work to get started. Hopefully i'll have some time tommorow to investigate. I'll post pics of what I find.Originally Posted by slcook54
-phill F.- 10/95 Avus E36
Hey whats going on man, its been a while .Well it seems to be happening quite often to many E36's and I dont think it has anything to do with the mileage. Some have posted that that their OPN has come loose at 50k, 70k, 100k, and me 130k. Allot of people are claiming that its the Crank Pulley thats mostly at fault for this problem which im not disputing but I just dont know forshure. Reading diffrent threads about other members OPN coming loose has shown me that allot of them were running the CP but not all of them. i'm going to be taking on the OPN hopefully this weekend on my own, many people have done it themselves and stated that its not that hard. Taking it to a shop I've hear people say it would cost around $200-300+ depending on where you go. If I were you I'd get it done one way or the other just to be on the safe side.Originally Posted by BlaBla
You mean the Crank pulley right?!... Your sure? hows that? (wheres the actual proof?) I'm not saying the crank pulley isnt the cause of this but someone please prove that it was. Maybe the Crank Pulley "helps" the OPN come loose but whose to say it wasnt coming loose in the first place and that the OPN just isnt secured enough on our E36's for all the hard driving some of us do.Originally Posted by rustamabd
-phill F.- 10/95 Avus E36
does anyone have a writeup for tighting the OPN? also, if anyone would like to gather up and have a OPN day i'd be happy to attend
1998 Titanium Silver M3
LOL... The thread on the OPN has been stickied at the top of the Bimmerforums.com "M3 series E36" forum for about a year.Originally Posted by BlaBla
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=228123
Heres another good site.
http://www.emotors.ca/Articles/article.aspx?id=48
-phill F.- 10/95 Avus E36
haha i haven't been paying much attention to the boards lately so i didnt catch the sticky..thanks for the links though
1998 Titanium Silver M3
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