I replaced my primary tensioner a little while ago, hoping that the ticking would go away and it didn't, Im hoping it is my secondary tensioner that I can just replace my self at the shop, now, my question is, do you get the secondary tensioner out of the s52 motors for the s50? I only ask this because when I replaced my primary tensioner I was told to get the s52 primary tensioner, is it the same thing with the secondary tensioner? Also, since this is a really common problem with alot of owners, can we make a sticky or something with walk throughs on how to replace both tensioner's? Anyways, thanks in advance for all info.
I need to replace my main, but I already replaced my secondary. There is a write up somewhere. Anyways Bmw redesigned the secondary tensioners. I will find the part number. My valve cover was off when I was doing mine because I was replace the gasket but if I was not doing this and had the right tools it is literally a 5 minute job. I will go find the write up hold onOriginally Posted by sportcarm3
Bah I can't find it.
i replaced my vanos solenoid, and i will be replacing both tensioners at once very soon. I think those three are the trifecta of vanos related chain noise (assuming actual vanos unit is still good). if those three do not fix the problem then its actual vanos thats messed up but its good to start with the three cheaper and easier items to replace then work your way up.
I had both my primary and secondary chains, tensioners, and rails replaced, but it reallly set me back quite a bit
Im hoping it will be the secondary tensioner, if not it might be the rails or the timing chain, im not sure, but the car only has 79k miles so I dont think the timing chain is bad or anything, odd.
did it fix the problem? i've started with the primary tensioner (obviously because it's the easiest to replace), but since that didn't work, i'm kicking around the idea of doing just what you did...Originally Posted by Inv3ctiv3
Dan
'99 BMW M3
'04 Toyota Tacoma
'79 Volvo 242 GT [sold]
'79 Volvo 242 GT [sold]
'03 Kawasaki ZX-6R [sold]
I had the problem too but here is what i did changed the upper and lower chains, all guide rails, side and upper tensioner, vanos unit and cam sprockets. And the all the noise went away and runs better than ever. Hope that helps and if anybody would like to do this we can do it at my uncles shop let me know. Serge
Any gotcha's on replacing the primary chain? That (and the guide rails) are the only components I've yet to replace, and I'll be doing that shortly. Any trouble getting the harmonic dampner and that front timing chain cover off to replace the primary?
For those curious, I did a writeup on pulling the VANOS and cams to replace the upper tensioner on my '95 which can be found here:
http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/camshaft.htm
Cheers,
Steve
Originally Posted by sergs99m3
This thread really needs to become a sticky, and lots more info contributed.
ya vanos is one of the trickiest things to diagnose b/c there are so many variables. But i think this should be the order of the replacement....
1. vanos solenoid
2. lower Chain tensioner
3. Vanos chain tensioner (often called upper chain tensioner)
4. Vanos control unit itself
5. gears and sprockets and etc
if you have never replaced the vanos solenoid i highly suggest starting there b/c a bad solenoid will really hamper vanos performance and it will help gain alot of that torque back. Also, a bad solenoid can actually hide other problems, so replace solenoid first, then do the two tensioners and once, then if that still doesnt work its time for open heart surgery and replave everything.
If you do not replace both tensioners at once is that really bad?Originally Posted by SupaBimma
Please not that any Replaving should be done by a trained professional.
Originally Posted by SupaBimma
Serously, no, replacing one or the other tensioner will not be detrimental.
My (soon to be tested) theory is that the primary chain is often overlooked as a possible first source. It's four times as long and driving twice the load (both camshafts. the secondary chain only drives the intake), so it would seem logical that wear would show up here first. I've got a copy of the text from a TIS service board about the S motors stretching primary chains. Since I've replaced everything else and I can hear the distinct buzzsaw noise near the (new) lower tensioner, this should be the last possible culprit.
haha.. very funny. I mean you dont HAVE to repace both at same time but you save alot of money when you replace things in pair or triplets. but if you wanna do everything one by one you can do it that way as well.
i was reading the procedure in bentley today...oil pan must come off to liberate the lower chain...Originally Posted by RagnarDanskjold
so i guess the other obvious "while-you're-in-there" is the oil pump nut.
while the one-by-one approach would be ideal in a free-labor world, i think i'm just gonna suck it up and do it all in one shot (both chains, tensioners, sprockets, rails, vanos unit, solenoid...and now the oil pump nut, too).
:sigh:
i can't really complain...over 117k miles, many track days, no engine work besides spark plugs, fluids and (preventive) water pump.
Dan
'99 BMW M3
'04 Toyota Tacoma
'79 Volvo 242 GT [sold]
'79 Volvo 242 GT [sold]
'03 Kawasaki ZX-6R [sold]
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