Pulley/alternator replacement, what should I do?

[HOOJ]

So I have a slightly faint metallic sound coming from the alternator brushes it seems, and a muffled squeal (semi-loud) on start-ups, 50% of the time. I removed the fan, so basically it could be a number of things; alternator, idler pulleys, waterpump, etc, etc...

Now, if I did a full restoration on the belt driven accessories, since I already have the new composite water pump waiting to go in, what do I need to get? The tensioner and idler pulley seem to be the same part number. And a rebuilt 140A alternator from Autozone is $250. Would this be a good time to get an underdrive pulley kit?

Advise me.

[texasbimmer]

You may want to check Oreilly's (the old Hi-Lo) if you have one close. I tihnk I bought my 80amp alternator for $120 form them. The 140amp was not much more and they both have a lifetime warranty. I have used the warrantyin the past for my wife's truck. They stand behind it with no hassle!

Depending on mileage, I would change the pulleys anyway. a lot of folks, here lately, seem to be changing them. It is easy to do and worth the money.

[bigbilly]

Dunno, but if you do get a pulley kit, don't bother with the alternator pulley option. It's a b*tch to get off without an impact wrench. And from what I understand, it's the same dimensions as stock, only somewhat lighter. And considering the stock pulley is relatively small, there's not much weight to lose...

Of course, if you're getting a new alternator, you may have better luck doing the work outside the car. If you go with the UUC kit, you can have my alternator pulley for cheap.

Personally I'd avoid getting a rebuilt alternator. Seems like asking for trouble to me. But that's my bias.

One thing - if you haven't worked on the tensioners yet - they use some funky bits to get them loose. Also, remember that turning them as if you're tightening them causes them to move so you can slip the belts off. I'd never worked with them before and (well, you can imagine the rest).

Good luck.