Last night me and my friend were racing up and down a road that few cops were seen. The V6 Mustang and my 328i are pretty close to each other and I should say it's even.
Then two fully riced-up early-90s Civics show up and wanna race us. We both lost by several car-lengths by the time we reach 80MPH. Those small devils are plainly fast!!!! I launch at 4.5K RPM and I don't think I made any big mistakes. I just can't beat them for the 3 races I did with them. Then they just pulled away satisfied.
Why the fucking heck can Civics beat 328s and Mustangs? They swap 3.0 engines in them?
Are you an auto?Originally Posted by archyx
The reason why hondas are so fast is cause anyone with give you money to do one up. Also parts are so easy to get. Alot of the turner work on hondas can be done in the back yard. Also while Bmw swaps start at like 3k and up jdm vtec motor starts at 1700 with tranny and harness. So sorry that you lost but i am glad the mustang lost. I hate those things
Profanity, Main Forum...Originally Posted by archyx
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=205093
Originally Posted by SilverStreak
Thanks dave!!!......................for changing your avatar
2002 IS 300
2005 X5
2008 335i
It was a modded mustang V6 right. Because you would definitely kill a stock mustang V6. Especially since you have mods as I can see also. So you must be auto right?? Or it must have been a highly modded mustang right??? I'm very curious.Originally Posted by archyx
2003 325i
PERFORMANCE/SUSPENSION= Dinan stage 1 and 2 software, UUC underdrive pullies, X3-racing CAI
EXTERIOR=5% Tint, hamann eyelids, Eurolite halogens, stickers,
THE NEED FOR A MUCH FASTER CAR!!!!!! :
That must be one modded to hell and back mustang, no way he should even "keep up" with you.
I have your same car but stock, and auto. I have never lost to any V6 mustangs (STOCK), even when they have I/C/E, they can't lose me at all. This guy has spent some cash on his V6, or you need to hit the strip
I have to agree with the guys on the Stock V6 Mustang race.. it should not even come into the picture (pun intended ). And although the civics are weak in their stock form... they do have a huge weight advantage over E36s, but to loose by "several CLs" by 80 mph... when you had a good launch... that almost makes me wonder if there was forced induction involved
Any car can beat you given money and time to mod it right.
It's more like comparing stock to stock may be a different story.
And when both cars are about similar in power stock to stock, it's a drivers race.
I agree, you should hit the strip. I have more mods than you but I'm only a 325 and I race my friends lightly modded 2004 v6 mustang and it's never even close. If I win by 3 car lengths he did well. And his is 4 years newer than the one you raced and manual.
As for civics, I still say they're not fast, once you do an engine swap you don't really have a civic anymore, you have something else. If I put an m3 engine in my 325 I can't really say look how fast 325's are, cause it's not a 325 anymore. I'm sure somebody on here knows somebody with a fast civic with the original engine, so I suppose there are exceptions, but I'm just saying once you do an engine swap it's a whole different story.
Hey man I just got a quick question. How much of a difference did you feel in your car once you got the 3.91 l. s. d. I have a 3.46 stock and was thinking about going up to a 3.73. Although I am auto I hear they are the "poor man's S/C's". So, do they live up to that saying in your opinion also???Originally Posted by Red Herring
2003 325i
PERFORMANCE/SUSPENSION= Dinan stage 1 and 2 software, UUC underdrive pullies, X3-racing CAI
EXTERIOR=5% Tint, hamann eyelids, Eurolite halogens, stickers,
THE NEED FOR A MUCH FASTER CAR!!!!!! :
something isnt right with your 328 bro, v6 pusstangs are a joke, with mods 328's are in 5.0L/ early 4.6 land...... the new ones are quick i must say though........ ive lost to one.......it was modded too though...
silver328I, ARP studs, copper gasket,stock injectors!! adabted bbk F-reg current 66psi (rich and intermitten sticking open,over injector tolerance), bbk 255lph adapted inline f-pump,dual 2 1/2" track pipe, 02 simulators, alum.Plasma Direct coils, ngk single electrode plugs at .0045,acshnitvizzle manifold (m50 grenaded @t-body mate),fan delete, ASC delete ,CDV delete,UCC underdrive crank pulley, removed A/C components, weight reduced, 3.38LSD , 75c degree stat,18x8.5 ADR M-Sports,m3 mouldings, euro tails, clear sides/corners,cusom coilovers, broken subframe, "Lejune aluminum/alloy cam chain, 97'm3 cams", 8mm overbored throtle body, t-body coolant bypass, alum f-wheel, m5 clutch goodbye,reverted obd2 management, nitrous express no more!!! used vortec s-trim,2.50" pulley, 17psi @ 6900rpm, 94' sc t-bird intercooler (small but resiliant) self engineered 3" t6 mandrel bent intake routing, estimated 430hp octane/air density permiting, under $1400 completed!!
Mine is a 5-spd. Am I that bad a driver? I should go to the strip and see for myself after Xmas. But really, I don't shift at 6.5K RPM 'cause I'm afraid that I might mess up my engine. Instead, I always shift between 5.5K and 6K RPM range. So if I shift at 6.5K RPM, will I be faster?
With the Mustang I can gain 1/4 car length or lose 1/4 car length to 80 MPH.
My friend's '00 Mustang has Intake, highflow cat, exhaust, under-drive pulleys, intake manifold spacers, LSD (don't remember gear ratio), 245 rear tires. I think his biggest advantage is the LSD, and the highflow cat/exhaust free up the exhaust path a lot too.
Dinan325i: I just did a write up a couple days ago, the link is here... http://bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=294033
I wouldn't say it's anywhere near supercharger territory, but I don't find it half bad. There is a noticeable difference and since the torque is so bad on a 325 anyway, it makes the car feel really nice. Some people say first gear is useless but I disagree. However, I have e36 and you're e46. I must say in my opinion you'll only benefit off of the 3.73 unless you like to drive high speeds all the time. And by high speeds I mean over 100 m.p.h. for long distances on a regular basis. You can always try to find a used 3.73 and if you don't like it, sell it to someone for what you bought it for and you'll only be out labor. Plus if you can do it yourself like I did, then you're only out time. Let me know how it goes if you get one, I'm interested to see how the 3.73 does.
In my opinion, you should definitely take it all the way to redline. Our cars shine up top as opposed to mustangs and other American cars which have better bottom ends. I have a chip in my car that gives me a higher redline but when I race I always take it up to about 7k. I don't race much, only when somebody has a new mod and we'd like to see how much of a difference it made. But anyway, you shouldn't be afraid of taking your car all the way up. I don't think you should have any engine trouble or anything. How many miles are on your car by the way?Originally Posted by archyx
Also, if you don't want to take it to a strip and/or conditions play a role, find someone on this board that lives nearby with a similar car and race them. If you have any trustworthy friends with similar cars it's good to switch cars and see how much driver plays a role. If you find that the other person always wins no matter what car they're in, ask for some pointers, you'll be just fine.
My car has 89K miles and it's very well taken care of. I thought the engine will explode at red line so I try to keep a distance from it. So engine running at red line for a fraction of a second is fine right?Originally Posted by Red Herring
Unless you have upgraded cams or M50 manifold, anything over 5.5k RPM is a waste of the power band. The M52 engine reaches it's torque and HP peaks at around 4.2K an 5.5K respectively. By the same token, shifting earlier than that could also hurt your times.Originally Posted by archyx
i take mine to 7000rpm probably 20-30 times a day, engine doesnt burn any oil whatsoever, runs better than ever at 111,000kms, ive abused it since day 1, and will continue, trust me your motor wont blow, maintenance it regularily and you can abuse it for many more years to come...
silver328I, ARP studs, copper gasket,stock injectors!! adabted bbk F-reg current 66psi (rich and intermitten sticking open,over injector tolerance), bbk 255lph adapted inline f-pump,dual 2 1/2" track pipe, 02 simulators, alum.Plasma Direct coils, ngk single electrode plugs at .0045,acshnitvizzle manifold (m50 grenaded @t-body mate),fan delete, ASC delete ,CDV delete,UCC underdrive crank pulley, removed A/C components, weight reduced, 3.38LSD , 75c degree stat,18x8.5 ADR M-Sports,m3 mouldings, euro tails, clear sides/corners,cusom coilovers, broken subframe, "Lejune aluminum/alloy cam chain, 97'm3 cams", 8mm overbored throtle body, t-body coolant bypass, alum f-wheel, m5 clutch goodbye,reverted obd2 management, nitrous express no more!!! used vortec s-trim,2.50" pulley, 17psi @ 6900rpm, 94' sc t-bird intercooler (small but resiliant) self engineered 3" t6 mandrel bent intake routing, estimated 430hp octane/air density permiting, under $1400 completed!!
Originally Posted by torquey
/\ statment is true, but m52 328 engine still makes more hp in the 6500 range than if you shifted ahead premature at 5500rpm dropped your band back to 3800rpm in the next gear, this effects times, i find after 1st gear im in my sweet spot power band in every gear, 4500-7000rpm.... just run it to just before fuel cut off IMO...
silver328I, ARP studs, copper gasket,stock injectors!! adabted bbk F-reg current 66psi (rich and intermitten sticking open,over injector tolerance), bbk 255lph adapted inline f-pump,dual 2 1/2" track pipe, 02 simulators, alum.Plasma Direct coils, ngk single electrode plugs at .0045,acshnitvizzle manifold (m50 grenaded @t-body mate),fan delete, ASC delete ,CDV delete,UCC underdrive crank pulley, removed A/C components, weight reduced, 3.38LSD , 75c degree stat,18x8.5 ADR M-Sports,m3 mouldings, euro tails, clear sides/corners,cusom coilovers, broken subframe, "Lejune aluminum/alloy cam chain, 97'm3 cams", 8mm overbored throtle body, t-body coolant bypass, alum f-wheel, m5 clutch goodbye,reverted obd2 management, nitrous express no more!!! used vortec s-trim,2.50" pulley, 17psi @ 6900rpm, 94' sc t-bird intercooler (small but resiliant) self engineered 3" t6 mandrel bent intake routing, estimated 430hp octane/air density permiting, under $1400 completed!!
somebody correct me if i'm wrong, but I believe our engine/cams/crank are balanced to 7,200 r.p.m., the redline keeps you short of that a bit. Is that information correct?Originally Posted by archyx
Torquey has a 328 and I have a 325 so maybe he can advise you better on it. My friend has a 328 but he's modded and has m3 cams so his top end is insane. However, even before he had the cams or chip i believe he only shifted 200 r.p.m. or so short of redline
That's what I do, especially the end part, I shift right before I feel fuel cut off. I can't be that bad of driver cause I can keep up with some M's, so just try different things and see what yields the best results. My car used to not have any power below 4,500 but after some mods it felt a lot better, slowly but surely.Originally Posted by 98328I
Civics beating 328s and Mustangs are not new to me. Here in town, at the local races, there are civics taking out some what modded Ford Lightnings and keeping up with Evos. From what i've heard, one of the civics have not done any engine swap, but spent about 13 grand on engine work. So don't be surprise all the time when civics win because they are easily modded and cheap too.Originally Posted by archyx
yep... i've been owned by a '93 hatch with type-R motor . rightfully so though.
Civic hatchback also weigh about 2100 pounds...2100 pounds with a 200 HP engine will feel like a 325 HP car. Its called power to weight ratio my friend.Originally Posted by ShockaxDemised
that hatch will also own a lot of really really fast expensive cars.Originally Posted by dub n 328i
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