Add another thank you to this long list.
My fan was just stuck at its lowest speed. Not good in SC in Summer!
Its great to have the fan blowing at all speeds again (read HIGH).
Thanks very much!
John Corbs
hey, thanks for the write up. I just completed it and seems to have fixed the issue.
Quick question : I was unable to get the footwell air duct back on for some reason and gave up. Will this have a mechanical impact or is this for the AC to cool my feet?
Thanks
I believe this might mean replacing the heater box. A new heater box and related parts would be very expensive BUT for the good news I have seen them on ebay for cheap recently.
The real bad news is the heater box is buried under and behind the dash and you have to take the dash out and discharge the AC. If I had a car that needed that problem fixed I think I would pretend is was a model-T without heat or AC. Scary job and dangerous. So hopefully it is something easier than replacing the heater box ... perhaps you could get a estimate from a good-honest independent shop.
Of course check all fuses but I doubt that will be the problem. Has your cabin filter ever been replaced ,,,, if never and it's 100,000 plus and you part under trees then perhaps there is a pile of leaves in the works?
The air duct has two of those push pins, one above and one below. You really have to take the knee panel off to be able to see how it hangs together and gain access.
It seesm to me that the only impact is that the air will not be directed at your feet, just to horizontally to the left. Not sure how much heat you use and what impact that might have on the wiring...........I suspect negligible.
makes sense...thanks again
I can't believe I've been driving my M3 for so long without having the full use of my fan! My digital climate control's display was fine on my 1996 E36 M3, and the fan would respond to my inputs from about 10% speed up to 50% speed, but then it would only blow at 50% capacity even if I selected 100% fan speed. A few times, a minute or so after starting the car and after going over a speed bump, my fan speed would all of a sudden increase to 100% for 10 seconds, then drop back to 50%. $76 later and P/N 64-11-6-929-540-M58 from pelicanparts dot com, and I'm back in business. I followed the instructions on bmwe36blog dot com 'fixing-bmw-e36-blower-fan-speed-diy' and I was able to change out my FSU without even removing the HVAC duct (be gentle with the footwell cover - it gets brittle with age). It fixed the problem right away and now it works as it should. Now I can't wait to defog my window quickly, and feel my AC blasting 100% in the heat of summer!
FOR SALE: 1995 325 BMW Convertible - Black/Black
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...haust-and-More
Any reason not to buy the Behr FSU for $43 instead of the OEM one for $76? I am going to do this job.
Nope, go with the BEHR if you want - they were out of stock of the BEHR when I checked, so I went with the OEM. I grouped it with a big order for brake rotors, etc. so shipping was free. A/C is working great....now for those brakes....and whatever else the ///M throws my way....
This is a great writeup. I just finished mine and now I have A/C and heat and defroster and AIR!! Whhoooootttt.
what is the difference between the $76 replacement unit and the $43 replacement unit on pelican parts. I typed in P/N 64-11-6-929-540-M58 and the two matches came up with different prices...
anyone have an answer for me?
Read several posts above.
Missed that one.
So for anyone with an OBDI E36 (heater controls are the dial types),.. you can REPAIR your resistor pack! The pack has a Thermal Fuse at the very end of it that will blow (open) if the unit overheats. This is why most of them fail. The fuse is: pat microtemp 4468a ckacn (240 degree celcius).
In the image below you can see the silver fuse on the opposite end as the black connector.
WARNING: if you try to solder this fuse understand that it will open at 240 degrees celcius,.. so use cold solder paste or something similar (even crimping it will work).
All done
My blower only works on high (with or without AC on), I have a 95 so it has the dials instead of buttons. 1-4 are the same as off, only on 5 does it kick on, the air is powerful so I assume at 5 it is blowing the correct amount of air, but cant be sure.
Would this be the culprit for that?
Yes;
Try what I suggested above. Infact,.. before you go out to buy a new thermal fuse ($2),.. try just bypassing it with a paperclip. If the paperclip allows all of your speeds to work,.. then you know that its the thermal fuse. Please keep in mind that you need to cold solder the new fuse on.
I guess I'm going to have to get this part too. I'm having the either it works or doesn't problem, very frustrating. Thanks for the write up!
| 2002 330i 5-SPD - 101k | 2000 528iT - 146k |
My E46 Maintenance Thread http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1124584
Just some follow up on my particular issue:
1) Replaced FSU as a first step - didn't solve the problem, but I have a new FSU!
2) Climate control remanufactured - used ebay vendor and it works - didn't solve the problem, but I have a good working Climate control unit
3) Finally got around to opening the blower motor compartment from the engine and the blades were just a little seized. tapped the motor with a screwdriver -Whooooshh off it went..lubed up the blades and hit them with some pbbaster and it consistently turned on and off
side note: I never knew that the FSU was visible from the Blower motor vantage point
2
FOR SALE: 1995 325 BMW Convertible - Black/Black
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...haust-and-More
I just put my unit in today. Works so far. Did they jack up the price on this part? After taxes it was $175 . I asked for the discount and the dude asked if I had a account. I don't think he got it. Obviously I didn't have an account I just wanted him to put the code in like the young guy used to do for me all the time.
Last edited by shoman24v; 10-11-2009 at 01:16 PM.
| 2002 330i 5-SPD - 101k | 2000 528iT - 146k |
My E46 Maintenance Thread http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1124584
question:
if the fsu is the new part number, there's power (9.5v) going into the plug of the fsu, fuse #20 30 amp is .5 ohms (car off) and the metal prongs of the fsu unit is .5 ohms, where do I go from here?
climate control unit works (lights, temp control you hear vents closing and opening in the background) but absolutely no fan speed running.
318is please help!
Last edited by vap3; 10-11-2009 at 05:43 PM.
Try wiggling the FSU while the system is on. Many reports about that wiring bundle having a loose connection which can be solved.
These fans don't last forever, just because the fan will turn doesn't mean it will run. What happens is that the brushes are shot, the bearing are shot and when it does work which us usually is when it is cold out. Once warm the fan will not run, it will pull a alot of amps and most likely blow a fuse or ruin the FSU.
Been there done this...
Again wiggle the FSU wiring bundle with the ccu in the high fan speed position. If that doesn't work and the fuses are good as well as the relay it is the blower.
Last edited by fun2drive; 10-11-2009 at 07:18 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
BM
wow bro you gotta do some shopping
http://www.bmaparts.com/item.wws?sku...er&weight=0.35
75 bucks, and BMA Parts is an awesome place.
looks like the price has jumped on BavAuto
I bought mine for like 70 a couple years back its now 90 there.
Rule the Bends, Bend the Rules
Well, I went to the dealer and bought an original part.
acutally, looking at bav according the the photo its the same one I got. I will call them Monday and probably reorder, assuming I can return the one from BMW.
$60 less then bav makes me unsure if it's an original part, and the part number listed on the site is not the same as the OE one.
Last edited by shoman24v; 10-11-2009 at 09:36 PM.
| 2002 330i 5-SPD - 101k | 2000 528iT - 146k |
My E46 Maintenance Thread http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1124584
you usually cannot return electrical items, just replacement if defective.
Rule the Bends, Bend the Rules
Hey thanks for posting this DIY I just replaced my FSU on my 98 328IS and mine had an extra screw at the bottom and it was a pain in the butt to get the driver side plastic off. All and all it was well worth it now my heat is back especially here in Canada where it can get pretty cold. Just on a side note on the 328IS as soon as I removed the plastic heat for the feet I could see the FSU thanks again!
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