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Thread: Replacing Final Stage Blower Resistor pack

  1. #101
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    453
    My Cars
    04 M3
    Quote Originally Posted by theimage View Post
    I had the same symptoms a while back.
    I bought the FSU and installed it into the car. My blower did not start working again. I put the old FSU back in (blower still not working).

    Then I tore down to the actual blower which is accessed at the back of the engine compartment (or just rear of it). The blower motor was properly connected electrically. Yet apparently the connectivity had degraded over time to the point that current did not pass to the motor. Depending on which way I wiggled the wire, the motor would work or stop.

    The fix: loosen the screw that secures the wire to the motor. Wiggle it around a bit and then tighten the screw. The motor worked immediately and has ever since!

    Lesson learned: given the symptoms at the beginning of this thread, don't automatically assume that you have a bad FSU or blower motor.

    To fix my blower issue, it cost $0.00 and 1/2 hour of my time.
    Is the blower easy to access? I'm not a big DIY guy.

  2. #102
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Southeastern U.S.
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    8,057
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    Yes
    Quote Originally Posted by djpfine View Post
    Is the blower easy to access? I'm not a big DIY guy.
    The blower is accessible from the engine bay. It is located below the air intake plenum at the firewall. You have to remove the plenum and move the big wiring chase above the engine out of the way to get to the blower housing. After getting the cover off of the blower housing, you have to destroy the old blower wheels to get them and the old motor out of there. A new blower motor will come with detachable fan wheels that you attach to the motor shafts inside the blower housing.

    The steps are not especially difficult, but the blower housing is a cramped space.

  3. #103
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Phx, AZ
    Posts
    44
    My HVAC had the following symptoms:
    - During colder weather I would hear 'chirping' from the blower, as if the bearings were going bad. This stopped as winter turned to summer (I'm in LA, so it doesn't get very cold even in the middle of winter).
    - I left my car sitting for a month while I was traveling outside of the country.
    - Came back (after said month) and started my car. Now the blower made sounds as if it was hitting something in the blower case (like the card-in-the-spokes on kids bikes).
    - The blower just stopped one day (wouldn't come back on when I started the car).

    Now, since the blower is not working, the climate control unit is fully lit and functional (I did the capacitor replacement last year), how do I determine if its the Final Stage Resistor or the Blower motor gone bad?

    Thanks for a great write-up!

    Mike

  4. #104
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Phx, AZ
    Posts
    44
    Quote Originally Posted by G. P. Burdell View Post
    You can do a little diagnostic work if you have a multimeter and the Bentley manual wiring diagrams.

    When the key is in the ignition and turned to the "run" position, one pin on the plug that connects to the final stage unit should receive 12V power from the blower relay. When the climate control unit is on and functioning properly, another pin on the plug should receive a variable "control voltage" ranging from 2 to 7 volts, depending on the fan speed shown in the display. Adjust the fan speed up and down and watch the voltage change. Supposedly you can also insert a jumper wire between two of the pins and make the fan run at full speed, although I haven't tried this.

    Last week, I did what I outlined above (except the jumper wire bit) and determined that the final stage unit was most likely at fault. I replaced it with a new one this past weekend.
    I tried this, however, this will only measure if the resistor pack is receiving the correct voltages. You still don't know if the resistor pack is bad, or if you need a new blower, without using the wire-jump-method. Does anyone have a wiring layout for the plug that goes into the resistor pack? I'd like to try jumping the contacts to see if the blower still runs.

    Thanks!

  5. #105
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    96 328i
    Can some one tell me if i change the final stage resistor will be able to solved my problem....
    I have a 96 328i, and some time my AC is not working, some time its working.
    when its not working, in the front with footwell air duct it blow Hot air into the car.
    Question, Why is my AC acting up weird? And why did the Hot air blow in when AC is not working. When i go faster it blow hotter air then when i go slow.
    thanks for helping!

  6. #106
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Calgary Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    94 325i

    replaced resistor worked well then stopped again

    First time poster.
    I've got a 94 325i. The blower only worked on high so a mechanic replaced the resistor and every thing worked well for about 2 days. Now the fan only works on high again. Anyone have any idea's on this. I was wondering if the blower itself is drawing too much resistance and causing the resistor to go.

    Thanks 737ng

  7. #107
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    >>Lewisville, TX<<
    Posts
    392
    My Cars
    '97 328i Sedan
    My symptoms are Display all working but no air blowing out, and the the CAP. was replaced already, It blows cold in the morning for about 1 minute only to shut off again for the rest of the day. How different is this DIY, from an M3 (on the pictures, I think) as to a '97 328i?, I need to do this like "yesterday" but I'll like to do it right the first time, and how difficult is this job? Thank you. William

  8. #108
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Edmond, OK
    Posts
    5,434
    My Cars
    1997 M3
    Quote Originally Posted by boeing328i View Post
    My symptoms are Display all working but no air blowing out, and the the CAP. was replaced already, It blows cold in the morning for about 1 minute only to shut off again for the rest of the day. How different is this DIY, from an M3 (on the pictures, I think) as to a '97 328i?, I need to do this like "yesterday" but I'll like to do it right the first time, and how difficult is this job? Thank you. William
    Not too bad at all.. most of the work is getting the kneeboard thingie (technical term) and a vent duct out of your way so you can get to the final stage unit itself. As long as you can contort yourself under the dash for a little bit without going into spasms, you'll be fine. I had my final stage unit AND CCU capacitor die on me last summer when it was 105 out. I won't take my cold air for granted this summer!

    1997 M3 (SOLD) :o 2000 528i Sport (SOLD)

  9. #109
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Amherst, NH
    Posts
    232
    My Cars
    1997 Estoril Blue M3 sedan
    good Diy page, thanks for your work!

    1997 Supercharged M3 with $15,000 worth of DINAN
    products and more... 0-60 in 4.6 is fun

  10. #110
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    39
    My Cars
    '99 323iS

    I don't think its your FSU...

    Quote Originally Posted by fuzzylee View Post
    Can some one tell me if i change the final stage resistor will be able to solved my problem....
    I have a 96 328i, and some time my AC is not working, some time its working.
    when its not working, in the front with footwell air duct it blow Hot air into the car.
    Question, Why is my AC acting up weird? And why did the Hot air blow in when AC is not working. When i go faster it blow hotter air then when i go slow.
    thanks for helping!

    If you are getting hot air out of your AC this is not related to your FSU I dont think. The failing FSU should only be having an affect on your fan's speed. Anyone else have input here?

  11. #111
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    >>Lewisville, TX<<
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    392
    My Cars
    '97 328i Sedan
    I would like to say that I did change the FSU on my car and that fixed the problem finally, no longer is the A/C acting up, it took all of 20 minutes at a slow pace, very easy DIY, I must add that I got the part at the stealership just to make sure that I bought the right part for my model year, since there is some confusion on several part numbers, for about $127 plus taxes, my problem is been gone now for several days, I will keep an update if something comes up though, but I must thank all the guys that did reply to all of my whining and frustration .

  12. #112
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Boston, MA
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    453
    My Cars
    04 M3
    Does a faulty FSU also contribute to a lack of coldness from the A/C unit? I notice that sometimes my A/C is cold, but sometimes it's barely colder than just the fan blowing.

  13. #113
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    >>Lewisville, TX<<
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    392
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    '97 328i Sedan
    Quote Originally Posted by djpfine View Post
    Does a faulty FSU also contribute to a lack of coldness from the A/C unit? I notice that sometimes my A/C is cold, but sometimes it's barely colder than just the fan blowing.
    Not in my case.

  14. #114
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ, USA
    Posts
    305
    My Cars
    1999 Alpine White BMW M3
    Amazing write up!

    + 3

    I hope that this is my issue as well. Here is my story.....

    Example:

    I took my son to school yesterday morning and all was well. 110 outside and the ac was great. I got back home, ran some errands, took a drive on the 101 and all is still good. I go to pick him up later to catch Trasformers (badass!) and EVERYTHING was normal with the CCU, etc... but no blow. I sucked it up and drove to the theatre with 110 air blowing on our faces.

    After the show we got back in and what?!?!?!? it works fine, and ran fine the rest of the night.

    This morning I take him to school and all is well. I park, drop him in class, go back to the car, and.......

    no air! WTF!

    It sounds like it has to be this issue that the writeup is on, and if it is that would be great, cause it looks like an easy fix and cheap. Cheap I mean only because I'm not taking it to the shop. F that.

    Does this sound like it cold be the resistor? Sounds like the same issue?

    Thanks for all the help, and great write-up again.


    1999 (e36) Alpine White ///M3

  15. #115
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    >>Lewisville, TX<<
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    '97 328i Sedan
    Quote Originally Posted by dsp420 View Post
    Amazing write up!

    + 3

    I hope that this is my issue as well. Here is my story.....

    Example:

    I took my son to school yesterday morning and all was well. 110 outside and the ac was great. I got back home, ran some errands, took a drive on the 101 and all is still good. I go to pick him up later to catch Trasformers (badass!) and EVERYTHING was normal with the CCU, etc... but no blow. I sucked it up and drove to the theatre with 110 air blowing on our faces.

    After the show we got back in and what?!?!?!? it works fine, and ran fine the rest of the night.

    This morning I take him to school and all is well. I park, drop him in class, go back to the car, and.......

    no air! WTF!

    It sounds like it has to be this issue that the writeup is on, and if it is that would be great, cause it looks like an easy fix and cheap. Cheap I mean only because I'm not taking it to the shop. F that.

    Does this sound like it cold be the resistor? Sounds like the same issue?

    Thanks for all the help, and great write-up again.
    F.S.U

  16. #116
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Phoenix, AZ, USA
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    1999 Alpine White BMW M3
    F.s.u. ??


    1999 (e36) Alpine White ///M3

  17. #117
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    >>Lewisville, TX<<
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    '97 328i Sedan
    Quote Originally Posted by dsp420 View Post
    F.s.u. ??
    Yeah! your year model has a Final Stage Unit and not a resistor,.. if we are talking about the same problem of the a/c acting up... in any case that was my problem.

  18. #118
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Phoenix, AZ, USA
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    My Cars
    1999 Alpine White BMW M3
    ahhh. thanks man. Still learning ya know!?

    a


    1999 (e36) Alpine White ///M3

  19. #119
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    Apr 2006
    Location
    brooklyn ny
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    1
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    740, minicooper,
    Thanks these we good instructions

  20. #120
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    3
    My Cars
    96 328i
    The front intake fan keeps running when the car is not on, which drains the battery empty. All other controls (AC, etc) work just fine. After reading some postings, everybody refers to the Blower Resistor. After researching , there are two Blower Resistor - Blower Motor Resistor (Part # #R2032-61965) and Blower Motor Resistor Final Stage (Part #R2032-125167 ). Which one should be replaced and where it's located withing a car (96 328i)? Thanks
    Last edited by SD96bmw328i; 07-20-2007 at 12:04 AM.
    SD96bmw328i


  21. #121
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Hornell, NY
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    58
    My Cars
    86 325es
    Can someone post a pic or let me know what wires go where? The previous owner apparently thought that cutting the wires and soldering them to the pins was a good idea. i Bought a new FSU and just want to make sure i put the correct wires to the correct pins.

  22. #122
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Hornell, NY
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    86 325es

  23. #123
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Nor_Cal
    Posts
    703
    My Cars
    96 ///M3, TrackMagic Kart
    thanks for the write up! replacing the part worked wonders!

  24. #124
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    8
    My Cars
    E36 323i
    Just wanted to add, if you are from the UK like me, to save you time, the Final Stage Unit is on the passenger side of the car. My problem was no blowing at all but the display still all working, changing the unit fixed this. Helped me alot. Cheers.

  25. #125
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    langhorne, pa
    Posts
    1,016
    My Cars
    98 black/magma M3 vert
    ok diagnose me...

    i have no air or heat pushing from the vent at ANY speed. when i turn the ac on i can hear the compressor kick on.

    i bought a fsu and that did not do the trick...

    so im down to:
    1.blower motor
    2. cc resistor
    3. resistor relay

    what is most likely my issue?

    thanks
    98 Cosmos/Magma M3

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