Stiff Clutch Pedal, and LOW engagement point

[BMW M Power]

hey all,

over the last few months, i have noticed my clutch is VERY stiff, compared to any other e36 m3 i have driven, and the engagement point is barely above the floor. i bled the clutch, but it didn't fix anything.

obviously, something is wrong. and from a search, i get the impression it is either the master or slave cylinder going bad. am i correct in assuming this? if it matters, my car is a 99, which just hit 80k

and how much am i looking at to fix this problem?

and if it is the master cylinder, wouldn't that be affecting the brakes as well, because those still feel fine.

thanks,
Brent

[hardrock74]

sounds like you need a clutch.

[BSH]

Your symptom is consistent with a clutch that's on its way out.

[BMW M Power]

dang.

anyone know of a place that sells oem clutches for cheap?

[zcasavant]

dang.

anyone know of a place that sells oem clutches for cheap?

Clutches are relatively cheap. It's the labor that kills you.

[KTL]

Dial-a-clutch sells OEM quality clutches @ a very good price. If you're concerned about OE Sachs quality that is a original equip. M3 part, call 'em up and ask 'em about their clutches compared to Sachs and see if the clutch brand they provide for BMW's is indeed Luk. Luk is a quality brand.

www.dialaclutch.com

Just got a stock replacement clutch for my Laser from them $158 shipped. Next best price I could find was closer to $250. Brand is Daikin which is an OEM supplier for lots of import cars.

A stiff pedal is usually a mechanical problem, not a hydraulic (slave or master cylinder) problem. The hydraulic clutch system does an excellent job of reducing the force required to operated the clutch. So when you are feeling an increased effort in the clutch pedal, something is definitely wrong. The only instances I can think of where the problem would be hydraulic are:

-Swelled flex line that is reducing flow of fluid, thus increasing effort. Any M3 is a little too new for a swelled flex line.

-Master or slave cyl. that is seizing up do to corrosion in the cyl. bore. This is quite unlikely as the clutch is operated so often that the bore is swiped clean by the seals very frequently. Still a possibility with crappy, contaminated fluid though.

I think either the clutch housing/pressure plate is wearing out or the release bearing is toast. Clutch housings are said to be pretty robust and don't wear out that often- unless heavily abused. Usually the stiff clutch can be blamed on a bad release bearing that is worn on the inside diameter and doesn't slide on the guide sleeve too well anymore. When the clutch engages low (hyd. clutch system is self-adjusting and should engage at the same point all the time with a properly operating clutch), that usually means that the clutch isn't getting the full movement it normally gets. Another symptom of the release bearing not sliding right and hanging up the clutch operation.

Let us know what the problem turns out to be.

[paul e]

>>Your symptom is consistent with a clutch that's on its way out<<

Really? I didnt know a low clutch meant that. I actually much prefer a low clutch. To me, it seems like a waste to have to release the clutch pedal almost 3/4 of its travel length before it engages. It seems much 'faster' to engage/disengage just a couple inches off the floor.. Thats how my AA clutch was when it was installed a year ago, and its how it is now... No change. That most people seem to prefer the low engagement is evidenced by the popularity of clutch stops and things; people dont like pedal travel it seems.

Effort is a whole other thing of course.. I love the AA clutch because the effort is low, and so is the engagement point. And it seems to be more than up to the task of handling over 450 crank hp or so. Im told the Spec clutches, and clutchmasters are excellent too. I have used the Sachs Sport clutch, and didnt like that as much.. Effort was considerably higher than my current clutch, and I burned that one out in a year, using it no differently than Im using my current AA clutch.

[BSH]

Really? I didnt know a low clutch meant that.

I was actually referring to the fact that he has a stiff clutch pedal. My clutch pedal got stiff, but my engagement point was unchanged, when my clutch assembly was worn.

[m3/4]

Substantially increased clutch pedal effort is a symptom of a worn pressure
plate - more specifically, the spring petals arranged aroung the hole in the
center.

In an E28 car, it can get so bad it causes the driver to become twisted in the
(sport) seat and even end up with a sore lower back!

[s_ribs]

www.bimmerparts.com has OEM clutch assemblies very cheap. The kit includes everything you need.
Seth

[CarbonBlkE36]

just make sure when u reasseble it, u use white grease on all the pivot points and what not. make ur clutch pedal feel baby soft

[KTL]

Nevermind the dialaclutch.com recommendation. bimmerparts and pelican (and others i'm sure) are much cheaper. My fault.

I'd recommend something better than white grease (most likely white lithium grease- which is also kinda vague) for the pivot points and sliding surfaces. You want a high temp EP (extreme pressure) grease or something similar that doesn't dry out and doesn't rub off easily. I use Dow Corning 1292 Long Life Bearing grease. It's meant for harsh environments and doesn't break down like general grease. An OE product that i've seen recommended in alot of German car manuals is Optimoly HT. Which is, as you can tell by it's name, is a moly (molybdenum disulfide= MoS2) high temp grease. Anti-seize paste is a good substitute as well. It's got high temp & EP properties.

[Avyer]

What is considered stiff, the M was my first bimmer, and comparible to my honda it is really stiff, but I was under the impression that it would be...

[BMW M Power]

cheapest i have found is from www.eap4parts.com and is $220

and there is no way i will be able to tackle a clutch install, so i will have to have it done at a reputable shop.

and the clutch is a lot stiffer than any of my friend's m3s.