I was having dinner at my sisters the other day (who works in the BMW factory in SC) and her boyfriend (who also works at the factory in SC) and both of them who have spent time working in the paintshop said that the worst thing you can do for new paint is wax it. They say that each time you do you simply put swirl marks into the paint. They said that the best thing is just to keep it clean.
You're right not to wax it. But the reason is so the paint will cure.
I did a little investigation into this on the forum and with my body shop whom repainted a panel for me. And the concensus is to wait a least a month before waxing or polishing the new coat of paint.:
'95 M3 Dakar
New bloody tyres, new bloody valve cover gasket, new bloody oil pan gasket, new bloody o2 sensor, new bloody engine mounts, new bloody..
Actually, what they said was not to wax it ever i you can help it. The clear coat is supposed to be enough to stop any harm from coming to the paint.
Not to contradict your sister and her boyfriend, but they're wrong.
It's an old car factory/selling strategy about a clear coat not needing any care. A clear coat helps tremdously protecting the colored paint. But clear coat is still paint, and needs Oils renurished and a layer of wax to protect it from the sun.
Anyone want to back me up here. Show/shine forum doesn't get a lot of traffic.
'95 M3 Dakar
New bloody tyres, new bloody valve cover gasket, new bloody oil pan gasket, new bloody o2 sensor, new bloody engine mounts, new bloody..
I was alway told that ur not surpose to wax new paint for 3 months. But I do agree you need to wax it to protect the clear coat from the enviroment.
06' BMW 530xi
02' Porsche 911 Carrera
11' BMW X3
I've been getting different responses on the length of time. from 3 weeks to your 3 months.
I dont know if I can wait that long. I get pretty trigger happy with the car care products.
'95 M3 Dakar
New bloody tyres, new bloody valve cover gasket, new bloody oil pan gasket, new bloody o2 sensor, new bloody engine mounts, new bloody..
I didnt wait on my hood 3 months.. I think I waxed it in a month but I waited on my bumpers 3 months to wax them. All in all.. theres no difference in the paint quality.
06' BMW 530xi
02' Porsche 911 Carrera
11' BMW X3
I've heard with newer cars, you can wax it when you get it. When I bought my car, I HD cleansed it and put on a couple coats of Zymol Carbon (thats because the dealer f*cked up the car when they prepped it for me from the showroom floor and put swirlmarks in the paint). No problem.
However, I've heard that when it comes to aftermarket paint jobs, to wait a few months to let the paint breathe and cure. Just because its not as cured as paint from the factory. I mean think about it, when BMW builds your car, you don't necessarily get it fresh from Germany.
I totally disagree with not ever waxing your car.
I probably just added to the confusion, huh?
What would Crockett and Tubbs do?
1994 E36 Hellrot/Black 325is
2007 E92 Jet Black/Saddle Brown 335i
People have won law suits against bmw for cars delivered with less then perfect paint. Got their cars repainted. Something to think about next time your dealer damages your car.
Well, I knew that I could get them out. I didn't trust them to try and I certainly didn't want another paint job. I was going to wax the car anyway, but it kinda ruined the new car experience somewhat-since it was a mirror finish in the showroom.
What would Crockett and Tubbs do?
1994 E36 Hellrot/Black 325is
2007 E92 Jet Black/Saddle Brown 335i
Jed,
Makes perfect sense that you can wax a new car. It's been sitting in the factory and on the lot for months.
But fresh paint needs to be babied.
You probably alreayd new this.
So here are some boobs
'95 M3 Dakar
New bloody tyres, new bloody valve cover gasket, new bloody oil pan gasket, new bloody o2 sensor, new bloody engine mounts, new bloody..
with factory paint i've heard that you can wax it as soon as you get it because at the factory it is cured at a much higher temerature than at a paint shop.... at the factory they can cure it at a higher temp. bc there isn't all the other electronics and interior in the car when its cured.... I waxed my aunts audi a6 2.7t two weeks after it came from the dealer (it was a special order so we got it right after it got to the states) and the thing looked sweet and still looks sweet
This is just plain wrong....And, when it comes from so-called professionals working in the industry, its even more invidious. What do you think clear coat is? Varnish? No....Its Paint! Paint on cars needs protection...Since clear coat is paint, it too needs protection...It is subject to the weathering elements as is the base coat.Actually, what they said was not to wax it ever i you can help it. The clear coat is supposed to be enough to stop any harm from coming to the paint.
Dont confuse this with the proscription against painting within 3 mos of application though...That 'rule' is to allow the newly applied paint to fully cure, which includes allowing chemical byproducts to escape....Waxing before that process completes just seals them in, which obviously interferes with the curing process.
But anybody who says dont wax ever doesnt belong in a position where they can influence others on the subject.
___________________
Paul E
'11 AW 135i ; Sold: '99 White M3 81k mi; Dinan SC kit, 6"/3.48" sc pulleys, Aftercooler: 10.5 psi-367 SAE rwhp/304 rwftlbs @80 degrees ambient (still with OBDII manifold & stock cats); DynoTuning by Nick G (techniquetuning.com); Speed Shop: Imported Cars of Stamford; AA-Aquamist Water Injection, exhaust, clutch; Fikse FM-10s; Koni Suspension; Stealthboxes
http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a173/boostm3/
Paul e,
I know it's so annoying. Car companies just lie to us. They told my mother "Clear coated cars need no Care"
Almost as bad as the oil light guage. Or the 10,000 oil changes Beverly Hills BMW try and pass off.
'95 M3 Dakar
New bloody tyres, new bloody valve cover gasket, new bloody oil pan gasket, new bloody o2 sensor, new bloody engine mounts, new bloody..
Im afraid I have to disagree with you here...I believe that, if you use a good synthetic oil, than theres no problem lasting 10K miles between changes....Maybe more, depending on your driving style....Do you believe in the results of chemical oil analyis? Well, Ive had mine analyzed, and after 10K miles, the oil is still good to go....I think its the companies which preach 3000 mile changes which are doing the disservice!!Almost as bad as the oil light guage. Or the 10,000 oil changes Beverly Hills BMW try and pass off
___________________
Paul E
'11 AW 135i ; Sold: '99 White M3 81k mi; Dinan SC kit, 6"/3.48" sc pulleys, Aftercooler: 10.5 psi-367 SAE rwhp/304 rwftlbs @80 degrees ambient (still with OBDII manifold & stock cats); DynoTuning by Nick G (techniquetuning.com); Speed Shop: Imported Cars of Stamford; AA-Aquamist Water Injection, exhaust, clutch; Fikse FM-10s; Koni Suspension; Stealthboxes
http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a173/boostm3/
The 3K miles is the worst case of stop and go traffic, with regular non-synth oil. But this is the absolute worst condition. 10K miles is fine for synth and highway. But I still change it in 5K miles anyway for prevention. Of course Jiffy Lube and other oil manufacturer happily preaches the 3K miles limit.
My friend brought his car to get fresh paint to a reputable car shop and was told not to wax it for 2 months until the paint cures.
-E-
Should have given more information.
BH BMW says when you buy a new car. You do not need the oil changed till 10,000 miles later. A new car.
You know how much crap comes off a new engine? Even motorcycle dealers change there new customer's bike oil after 600 miles.
After you break the car in maybe longer interval oil changes.
'95 M3 Dakar
New bloody tyres, new bloody valve cover gasket, new bloody oil pan gasket, new bloody o2 sensor, new bloody engine mounts, new bloody..
I agree.... there are a lot of metal shavings that wasn't properly cleaned when they bored the engine etc etc. The piston actually cleaned it when you run the engine.Originally posted by Jmiller
Should have given more information.
BH BMW says when you buy a new car. You do not need the oil changed till 10,000 miles later. A new car.
You know how much crap comes off a new engine? Even motorcycle dealers change there new customer's bike oil after 600 miles.
After you break the car in maybe longer interval oil changes.
Since I got my car used, I didn't get to do this, but I sure hope the prev owner did.
-E-
A local body shop guy told me that in the old days paint would cure over time so you would be wise to wait before polishing/waxing/sealing, but now most paint is chemically cured in a matter of days so there is basically no waiting period.
I agree that even clear coat needs polish or wax, just take it easy with the cleaning polish/waxes because your clearcoat has a physical thickness that is decreased with each use of these cleaners (that's how they work).
Later,
Dave
E39 - 1998 540iA Sport (11/97 Production)
E30 - 1989 M3 (44k miles)
1979 Triumph TR7, still have my first car ;-)
Past cars:
E21 - 1980 320i (sold at 130k)
E23 - 1986 735i
I am a BMW Car Club of America member, are you? http://www.bmwcca.org/
I would agree with kowached, about
"take it easy with the cleaning polish/waxes because your clearcoat has a physical thickness that is decreased with each use of these cleaners (that's how they work)."
in most respects, but not all polishes/waxes are abrasives.
Cleaner waxes... yes. Cheap wax/polishes... yes
But I would add most good polishes do the opposite they try to add nutrients back into the paint.
And good wax formulations should just add a layer on top of your paint.
'95 M3 Dakar
New bloody tyres, new bloody valve cover gasket, new bloody oil pan gasket, new bloody o2 sensor, new bloody engine mounts, new bloody..
I had my bumper painted in December and I waited until just last month to wax it. You could still smell the new paint when you were close to it. The paint (when new) needs to be given adequate time for all of the volitiles in the paint to evaporate and let it cure completly. Newer paint is still somewhat soft and shouldn't be handled much.
As far as protection goes I like to wax my car every 2 months or so. And between waxes I give it a shot of quick wax when it gets slow to dry off.
Nick
I think your characterization of polishes as 'good' if they dont use abrasives is a little off the mark...its not a matter of 'good' or 'bad'...Rather, its a matter of using the right tool for the job...If your goal is to knock down the paint, or smooth out a blemish or paint touch up 'glob', then youd better make sure your polish is of the mildly abrasive type...Otherwise youre just spinning your wheels. One of the best at this is the P21S all finish polish. Again, if youre trying to remove swirl marks or minor scratching in the clearcoat, a non abrasive polish as you mention might 'hide' the marks temporarily, but if you want to really remove them, better get the other stuff!in most respects, but not all polishes/waxes are abrasives.But I would add most good polishes do the opposite they try to add nutrients back into the paint.
___________________
Paul E
'11 AW 135i ; Sold: '99 White M3 81k mi; Dinan SC kit, 6"/3.48" sc pulleys, Aftercooler: 10.5 psi-367 SAE rwhp/304 rwftlbs @80 degrees ambient (still with OBDII manifold & stock cats); DynoTuning by Nick G (techniquetuning.com); Speed Shop: Imported Cars of Stamford; AA-Aquamist Water Injection, exhaust, clutch; Fikse FM-10s; Koni Suspension; Stealthboxes
http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a173/boostm3/
Good Point Paul e.
I'd give you a 5 star vote if this was DTM.
'95 M3 Dakar
New bloody tyres, new bloody valve cover gasket, new bloody oil pan gasket, new bloody o2 sensor, new bloody engine mounts, new bloody..
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