Hello, I'm having some (or a lot) of issues with my e36 and would appreciate anybody's input and/or guidance on how I can sold these issues.
I'll go over the car, some history and what I've done so far.
Car
1997 E36 M3
Previous owner had the s52 OBD1 converted
Red Label 413 ECU
OBD1 harness
OBD1 knock / cam / crank sensors
M50 Intake Manifold
OBD1 Fuel Rail
OBD1 MAF
car is also originally an auto, converted to a 6 speed with an e46 transmission.
Since then I've converted it back to OBD2
The car ran great before the conversion back.
Here's what's been replaced / done during the conversion back
used OBD2 Harness
Correct ECU with EWS delete from Ecu Saver (they went with VIN so its auto)
New OBD2 knock sensors
used obd2 cam / crank sensors
New post-cat O2 sensors (2)
New pre-cat o2 sensor for bank 2
S52 intake manifold
used obd2 fuel rail & injectors (pink top)
used obd2 MAF
installed used SAP component
new injector seals
replaced intake manifold gaskets
new crankcase vent pipe
new inlet / retour fuel hoses
new fuel filter
new fuel pressure regulator
replaced exhaust mid section with oem w/cats (previously had magnaflow without cats)
Upon first start everything seemed fine, was getting a code for pre-cat o2 hence the new o2 in bank 2
Along with a P0600 code (coming from the ecu looking for the auto transmission to my knowledge)
I did notice a loss of power when i did start driving it, i assumed it was due to swapping out the m50 intake manifold
On idle everything seemed fine but did notice a rough idle for a second.
On the highway, i started misfiring (bad) whole car shaking and such
other than the misfiring at the point, the car seem "okay"
It threw 14 codes
P0301 misfire
P0300 random misfire
P0305 misfire
P0302 misfire
P0303 misfire
P1519 A camshaft position actuator bank 1
P1188 fuel control (bank 1 sensor 1)
P1189 fuel control (bank 2 sensor 1)
P0170 fuel trim (bank 1)
P0173 fuel trim (bank 2)
P0600 serial communication link
Parked and turned the car off, clear codes and started the car back up
Car ran the same but without misfires at idle, drove for a bit, seemed fine, then misfiring again.
Restarting the car seemed to get rid of the misfiring like 3 out of 5 times but itd come back.
Codes
P0301
P0300
P0302
P0303
P1519
P0600
not all of them came back
I unplugged and replugged the camshaft sensor, cleared codes, havent misfired since (or at least got codes thrown for it)
BUT now the car is running god awful.
There is a rough idle that comes and goes (feels like i have cams or something), sometimes the idle is smooth, then itll get rough and shake the car a little bit.
Getting the car to start moving in first gear feels like I'm mid stall out no matter how much gas i give it once clutch is engaged, once im actually moving, its extremely sluggish on the lower end of the RPM.
Lower end of RPMs in general feel super sluggish, boggy, and theres hiccups on acceleration.
The hiccups feel like im misfiring but just not nearly as bad as previously, theres a hesitation i can feel during acceleration.
Sometimes when i get to 3-3.5kish rpm, car starts ripping like a surge of power came out of nowhere, and other times it stays super sluggish throughout past 3k
These are the codes im currently getting now.
P0600
P1519 (A Camshaft Position Actuator Bank 1)
If anybody has any insight or general direction I should be looking into, it'd be much appreciated/
If anybody has questions please ask.
Thank you so much in advance
Smoke test for vacuum leaks. Cam sensor MUST be OEM Siemens. MAFS MUST be OEM Bosch or Siemens. You should always replace both pre-cat sensors. Unplug the rubber hose from the SAP pump and see if you can blow through the valve on the exhaust (should not leak). Remove the fuel rail with injectors installed, put cups under each injector and energize the fuel pump and check for leaking injectors. NEVER buy new cheap china injectors they will leak. If the coils are old or original buy a new set, can be had for under 100 on ebay, never buy used.
You could try putting two bottles of royal purple complete fuel system cleaner and drive the car but you should make sure there are no vacuum leaks and that the Cam sensor and MAFS are correct first.
Flashing the DME to a manual is not hard with MS41Quickflash, but must be done correctly so you must read read read.
https://www.bimmertuningtools.com/pr...41-quickflash/
Last edited by Eric93se; 01-31-2025 at 11:55 PM. Reason: updated link
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
Also make sure you are using the obd2 IAT.
Is the valve cover OBD2?
Crossed primary O2 connectors?
Non BMW or Siemens cam sensor?
Last edited by pbonsalb; 02-01-2025 at 08:25 AM.
Cam sensor is OEM Siemens
MAF is also OEM
I’ll replace pre cat bank 1 o2 as well
Injectors came with the fuel rail used they are OEM pink tops
Thank you for the suggestions I’ll see if I can borrow a smoke machine and get that done and try these other things out as well.
Much appreciated!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here’s a freeze frame I also got from when it had the misfire codes.
P0301
Somethings really wrong with the STFTs, right?
Note I’m also using a shitty generic code reader, currently trying to borrow a windows laptop to install INPA and get some live readings.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
yup, your precat o2 sensors could be crossed.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
Couple of things
O2 sensors should be Genuine BMW, Bosch, or NTK (NTK manufactured Bosch brand sensors.)
Crossed O2 connectors will cause ‘limp’ mode.
Forward bank O2 sensor connects to aft connector next to fuel rail. Aft bank O2 to forward connector.
Cam and crank sensors should be Genuine BMW or Semiens.
As noted temperature sensor needs to be OBDII (threaded OBDII sensor for M50 manifold from BimmerWorld)
Probably need to have fuel injectors checked for flow/leaks.
Looks like OBDI S50 used different coils than OBDII M/S5X. Something to look into.
Used parts and especially electronic components can be problematic.
Last edited by bluptgm3; 02-02-2025 at 10:58 PM.
Turns out this was the answer. Crossed o2 sensors
You're a godsend haha
Thank you so much.
Last edited by Devspls; 02-01-2025 at 06:35 PM.
After swapping o2 plugs, the car has been running 1000 times better.
A little hesitation in acceleration here and there but nothing crazy
No more P1519 code though
Hearing a lot of clicking from injectors now as well.
Starting is also now a little bit different, takes a bit to get it running but sometimes it’ll start right up.
I was throwing a P0340 for a run but it’s went away after restart and I only have the P0600 from the auto ecu
I’ll be replacing spark plugs, coils, injectors and eventually rebuild vanos for maintenance
Thanks everyone for the input!
Last edited by Devspls; 02-02-2025 at 02:12 PM.
OBDI S50 used a different fuel injector than M/S52.
Fuel Injectors
M50: 17.5#
S50: 17.5#
S52 uses a red top fuel injector BMW p/n 13641703819 Injection valve - BOSCH.
Fuel Injectors
M52: 21.5#
S52: 21.5#
.
There is a new generation Bosch injector to replace above.
Last edited by bluptgm3; 02-03-2025 at 12:12 AM.
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