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Thread: New to me 2005 745i (of Couse their are some issuers)

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    2005 BMW 745i

    New to me 2005 745i (of Couse their are some issues)

    I just picked up a new to me 2005 745i after moving cross the country last weekend (I wasn't even in the market for a big body sedan, I was actually in the market for fun/sporty manual transmission DD). What drew me to the car was the somewhat low mileage for the year at 70K, and the overall clean exterior and interior. I was able to get the under blue book/black book value so as of now I think I got a good deal.

    The Seller/Used Car salesman tried to down play the mechanical issues the car had, however I'm not no stranger to DIY car maintenance, and over the years I acquired a fair share of tools and equipment that I could to open my own repair shop, LOL. (The last brimmer I owed was a E30 325e, but I owned other Euro's in the past from VWs, Audi B6 S4 6MT, Saabs, and older diesel Benz.)

    The only issue the salesman brought to my attention was:
    1) A small crack in the coolant tank; EZ fix
    2) Occasion some white smoke. (I noticed it only during start up, so I believed the valve stem seals are starting to show their age).
    3) "Something BMWs have dash lights come on, but they don't mean anything." I Knew this was BS, and their was some issue I would find later with car.
    4) They replaced the crankshaft position sensor with a "OEM" one. With no receipt I couldn't verify this.

    However, the issues the I noticed during the test drive was:
    1) Dynamic Drive inactive;
    2) Parking Brake malfunction. I suspect the plastic gear is broken;
    3) Driver restraint system fault.
    4) Using my code reader, I can tell the car had an emissions related CEL that was previously cleared, but I could tell which codes.
    5) The hood safety latch doesn't sit fully within the grille when the hood is closed.

    The good during the inspection,
    1) Mileage history checks out via CarFax and service history listed on CarFax
    2) No major body defects, but there was a minor fender bender reported in 2011, but with me pulling the spare tire and inspected the sheet metal I could see anything significant.
    3) No major leaks in the engine bay, but I can tell the valve cover gaskets are starting to seep.
    4) The undercarriage, suspension, and bushings look good.

    20240914_180500.jpg20240915_190729.jpg



    After owning the car for the past week, I able to get the engine issue to present itself. During a cold start the car idle is jumping around from about 500-1500 PRMs, with the 'Engine Malfunction Reduced Power' message on iDrive, the car with buck while in drive during this condition. After shutting off the engine and trying to start over again, the engine presents a Crank, No Start issue. I thing this might be the root cause the last owner got rid of the car, however I suspect the SAI system is either has a ton of carbon build it or the pump is bad. We'll see when I have time to troubleshoot.
    20240916_210845.jpg20240916_210840.jpg



    On my to do list so far.
    1) Replace coolant tank before is gets worst (cheap and EZ fix)
    2) inspect parking brake system this weekend. Replace gear if broken.
    3) Inspect SAI
    4) Figure out this hood latch issue
    5) Oil change, followed by a fluid change of all fluids before the end of the year staring with the brake fluid first. Then tune up.
    6) Rotate tires, the rears some wear compared to the front tires.
    7) Troubleshoot Driver restraint system fault
    8) Troubleshoot Dynamic Drive (Hope I don't need a new swap bar, $2k a new one is not going to happen)
    9) Valve stem seals when they go. (Man that AGA kit is pricey).

    It also seems like i missed the bus on BMW TIS and diagnostic software, so I need to figure that out ASAP.
    Last edited by citymunky; 09-22-2024 at 09:45 PM.

  2. #2
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    You really gonna need inpa or/and ista to get better view of the codes. Dynamic drive inactive is hardly related to sway bars. And parking brake failure will always pops up if there is any problems related to abs/dsc. Low brake fluid will also throw parking brake failure.

    Also dynamic drive could be related to dsc/abs. So check your codes.
    Current rides: E65 730dA '04, F10 520dA '11, E34 520iA '91

    Old rides: E46 316Ti, E53 X5, E38 728iA, E39 528iA, E46 318i Touring, E38 730dA, E36 316i, E36 328iA Cabrio, E38 728i, E38 750i, E36/3 320i, E36 318i, E39 530dA Touring, E38 740i, E39 528iA, E34 525iA, E32 750iL, E32 730iL, E34/2 525TDS,
    E34 525i, E28 518i, E34 535i, E34/2 525iA, E30/5 325i, E34 535i, E28 520i https://www.instagram.com/zener__/

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Thank you for the reply, I was hoping this forum wasn't dead as the facebook groups are not really that helpful if no one ever response. I'm currently on the hunt of a reliable source to download ISTA or ISTA + ( I don't know the difference between the versions)...any pointers?

    The brake fluid is serviced to the proper level, its just dirty and looks it hasn't been bleed in years.

    Today I inspected the parking brake mechanism, I did indeed fine the plastic gear was broken so at least that will be an easy fix as well.

    20240922_145325.jpg

  4. #4
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    '02 540i-6, '97 540i-6
    I'm not sure about this on your car, but a big surprise to many new BMW owners is that the cooling systems must be bled of air when the system is refilled from very low or empty. If your expansion tank is at the same level as the radiator, then yours probably does need to be bled. (It's probably not like your e30.)

    If the air isn't bled out, the system won't have enough coolant and you'll run the risk of overheating.

    This thread might help for general understanding of these newer systems:
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ding-Explained
    Last edited by R Shaffner; 09-23-2024 at 12:15 PM.

  5. #5
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    Ok, thanks for the heads up. I heard of this issue on the I8, but I'll look into it for the E65.

  6. #6
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    And... NEVER OVERFILL the cooling system! Better still, keep it a little below full. (This should be printed on the tank cap, and explained to every new owner for BMWs of this period.) Here's why:

    BMW put a MAP thermostat on these engines, which lets the DME (the engine computer) control the temp based on the engine load. When it's idling or cruising easily, the thermostat opens around 105C, which means the normal operating temps are well above boiling. That means the system must hold a higher pressure than normal (most other cars), and for that BMW put a much higher pressure cap on the expansion tank. (We think BMW did this for fleet fuel economy reasons -- engines can be more efficient at hotter temps.)

    Most, or at least many, of us on this Forum think that's why these cooling systems have a reputation for breaking. Years of higher temps and high pressures can't be good for the plastic parts, and these old plastic parts often fail. That's probably what happened to your expansion tank.

    So, the advice everyone agrees with here is to never overfill the system. If you do, the plastic parts will be put under real high pressure since the cap has a very high release point (often 2 bar, or 29 psi.) However, if you never overfill it, or keep it a little low, the coolant will have more room to expand from heat, without shooting the system pressure too high.

    (FYI, the MAP thermostat will open at lower temps when the engine is under load, down to around 90C or so. Better for power, and the system needs more cooling at higher load, of course. That works great when blasting down the autobahn, but not great for US drivers who mostly hop on the throttle from a stop, or when we get the chance on the road. In those cases the engine temp is already real hot and never has the chance to cool down before we're back off the throttle. These engines can dial-back power a LOT when hot, to avoid knocking. So some of us have switched to cooler non-MAP thermostats. I have no idea whether that's an option on the N62.)

    (Whenever you need more help about the engine, check the e60 section here too, or do a word search on the issue and N62.)
    Last edited by R Shaffner; 09-24-2024 at 12:14 PM.

  7. #7
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    Also, the CCV (aka CVV or PCV) systems for these cars often act up and can pull more oil vapor from the crankcase. It's a common cause of oil burning. Worth checking before looking as the stem seals.

  8. #8
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    Digging into the issues with INPA

    So I was able to download INPA and ISTA+ on of my old laptops. I ordered a K+DCAN cable of amazon got to scanning for codes. I was able to get INPA to work, however no luck with ISTA+ yet.

    One issue that is preventing me from Titling the car here in Cali is the presents of the Air Bag light on the dash (I get preventing registration/plates, but not titling).



    The codes I got for the SSFA Module were:


    • 9763 Interruption {Unterbrechung} SBE1 // 31 counts // Error currently present.
    • 9762 unknown error location {unberkannter Fehlerort} // 1 Count // Historical saved, not current present.


    From what I understand 9763 is a error for a fault for the driver's seat occupancy mat, and I'm not sure about 9762. I was clear both codes and so far they stay off, as well the air bag light on the dash. I will check the wires under the seat to see I can see anything that stands out.



    The next code I got for the DME/ECU was:


    • 2E97 (aka CEL : P0620) Generator Control Circuit Malfunction.


    I think the alternator is on the way out. I need to see if electric component rebuild shop in the area if not I need to order a replacement Bosch unit. I cleared the code, but I know it will pop again.



    The next module I scanned was the DSC and I got the following:


    • 5F02: Internal Error DME {Interner Fehler DME}// 5 counts // Historical saved, not current present
    • 5EAA: Speed Sensor rear right left line fault {Drehlfuehler hinten links Leitungsfehler}// 1 count // Historical saved, not current present.


    These two codes will not clear nor the message off of iDrive. I know it says internal error, but I was able to read live data from this module. Need to do my digging when I get ISTA working.



    Lastly I did a full vehicle scan and I also got the following.


    • Climate {Klima} Module. - 9C76: Auxiliary Water Pump // 74 counts.


    From what i understand of this system, its something that is not really needed here in SoCal. So I'm going to look into the wiring/connector. If that doesn't work, it will stay broken.

  9. #9
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    It will be harder to bleed the coolant system when aux pump is not working. And it's not that expensive to replace.
    Current rides: E65 730dA '04, F10 520dA '11, E34 520iA '91

    Old rides: E46 316Ti, E53 X5, E38 728iA, E39 528iA, E46 318i Touring, E38 730dA, E36 316i, E36 328iA Cabrio, E38 728i, E38 750i, E36/3 320i, E36 318i, E39 530dA Touring, E38 740i, E39 528iA, E34 525iA, E32 750iL, E32 730iL, E34/2 525TDS,
    E34 525i, E28 518i, E34 535i, E34/2 525iA, E30/5 325i, E34 535i, E28 520i https://www.instagram.com/zener__/

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    So I was able to get ISTA+ working so that is a big plus.

    For the SSFA Module. I was able to clear the 9762 code and it hasn't come back. For the 9763 code, I used NCS to code it out that was that system is always active.

    For the DME: 2E97 code. I replaced the IVM module since I was seeing a few other voltage problems when I ran scans. (but I think I still have a bad alternator, based of the "charge battery" message when running to car during scanning. The car stays on a battery tender while I'm working these problems, but I will have to bring out my big battery jumper/charging unit for diag work.

    For the DSC Module. I'm getting different codes on ISTA (5D54 ARS Learning Pressure Sensor Front Axle and 5D55 ARS Learning Pressure Sensor Rear Axle). This weekend I'm going to find a flat level ground to do the calibration procedure.

    I also fixed the hood latch and, replaced the parking brake gear and coolant expansion tanks this pass week.



    Now on to the real issue I have with is car, which the idle surge/crank-no start issue.

    Here is a recap:

    During a cold start, 90% of the time the car will start, but with the “Engine malfunction! Reduced Power” caution on the dash and iDrive. If the car starts, then it is drivable. The problem starts if I take a short drive (less than 10 mins), shut off the car and try to start again. Most of the time will not start (crank-no start) or if it does start, then idle surges bad (like from 500 RPMs to over 1500 RPMs, then repeats). In this state the car in Undrivable.
    The only way I found was to have the car start up again, shut everything and wait about 30 minutes before try again.

    Far I done the following to figure this out

    - I cleaned the MAF, and throttle body as recommended on forum thread with similar issues.
    - When the MAF is unplugged, the car still idle surges with no real change.
    - I removed and inspected the PCV diaphragms, they checked good with no tears.
    - BMW Throttle body relearn procedure (car started, but still had “Reduced Power” caution).

    My next step is to look for Vacuum Leaks (I found 1so far, the intake tube nipple is damaged at the joint). But after that I’m at a loss on what to look at next without throwing a bunch of parts at the car.

    Quote Originally Posted by zener View Post
    It will be harder to bleed the coolant system when aux pump is not working. And it's not that expensive to replace.
    Based of what info I can find for E65 is that the coolant is bled thought the expansion tank like any normal car, and the tank does sit higher than the radiator. The Aux Pump is a problem for later. My main concern is making the car drivable.

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    2005 BMW 745i
    While waiting for my smoke machine to arrive, I decided to look into the electric and power side since there were many forum posts across the web with similar issues that IVM fixed. However, since I just replaced my IVM with a new OEM unit and the issue remind, I wanted to ensure the basics were correct.


    I know the car had an aftermarket battery, but I was sure it had been successfully registered with INPA. So, upon registering the battery it hit me that I wasn't sure what type of battery I even had installed in the car. Upon inspection it was Duralast Platinum 8H-AGM, 95 Amp Hour battery. After a quick search, I found that the OEM battery was a 90 Amp Hour battery.


    So I was able to code the car to for the 95 Amp Hour battery, and upon starting the car again, the “Engine malfunction! Reduced Power” caution was now GONE.


    I drove the car down the street to find some flat road to perform the ARS Pressure Sensor learning for the front and rear axles. During the programming the engine needed to shut off, and after the programming the I was able to start the car right up with no idle surge.


    I took the car on a short test drive and performed numerous starts from cold, to warm, to hot and so my issue hasn’t presented itself again. I still plan on smoking the engine to see it there are any more vacuum leaks this weekend, but after that its on to fixing the minor things, like the truck lid/boot not staying open when its all the way up.

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