Diagnostic port woopsie! Jumped pins 12/9 instead of 11/14 by accident -now no crank

[sixerguy]

I'm doing a compression test and by accident instead of attaching leads to pins 11 & 14 on the diagnostic port, they were connected to 12 & 9 to crank - basically read the back of the cap backwords. After noticing the mistake and attaching the leads to 11/14 the car won't crank now. I'm now diagnosing a no crank situation and wondering if the 12/9 woopsie is causing the no crank - i.e. it could have fried the DME or blown a fuse.

[shogun]

is that the D shaped 15 pin diagnostic port like this? https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...stic-connector
9 Crankshaft TDC Position Sensor Shield
12 Alternator Exciter (D+) Voltage

already checked all fuses

[sixerguy]

Yeah, 15 pin connector. Any idea if shorting pins 9/12 would cause a problem?

Can you provide any explanation of what exactly these mean? I'm aware of what the TDC sensor and Alternator are, but not exactly in the context of a "Sheild" or "Exciter (D+) Voltage" means.

My issue may be unrelated to jumping pins 9/12. I just picked this car up with no idea of its service history or quirks and I've touched a few things in prep for a compression test. Before chasing down ghosts I kind of just want to make sure that jumping pins 9/12 for sure didn't cause a problem.

It was starting up just fine several times before putting it up on ramps to start in on some maintenance. I was about to do a compression test so dismantled the intake up to the throttle body, disconnected the battery ground, pulled all the spark plugs, pulled the Main Relay. At that point I reconnected the battery and tried to crank the engine and just get a click.

I'm getting good voltage between the battery positive terminal and the body of the alternator, valve cover, body side battery ground strap, firewall side ground strap.

I've never tried manually blipping the starter motor - and researching how to do that right now to see if its the starter. The starter wasn't giving any indications that it was problematic the 5 or 6 times I started the car since purchasing it.

I'm also going to put my Harbor Freight load tester on the battery - and maybe also swap in the battery from my 6 if it fits to rule that out.

[sixerguy]

Solved! Hammer meet starter. D'oh.

I'm still curious to learn more about what these mean on the diagnostic point:

9 Crankshaft TDC Position Sensor Shield
12 Alternator Exciter (D+) Voltage