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https://shop.bimmerbum.com/2-00196-s...-e30-z3-318ti/Originally Posted by Tgmaine
'looks like they may be out of stock at the moment.
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And since they seem to have been manufactured by StrongStrut it may be awhile before restock occurs…..
Sim Simma
Moderator
AKG makes one too, looks identical. However it is also out of stock. Really wouldn't be hard to make your own either, tbh. You'd likely end up near the cost of the tool itself but if none are available currently it'd let you get the job done.
There's also a subframe bushing removal tool available. Maybe I should start renting mine out, I think most people do the job once and wouldn't want to buy the tool just for one time use.
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That's what I did. I made an extractor from odds and ends I had laying around. It wasn't as elegant as the store bought ones but it got the job done.
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A little update as I get all the pieces - the BimmerBum RTAB tool - is M12?. In case your ordering parts - the 3/8" coupler nuts and bearings are too small - so I had to find 1/2" coupler nut and press bearings - hopefully the M12 couplers below will fit.
I think this tool should be able to do RTAB, RSFB, and possibly the Diff Mount Busing - as the Pipe I have is exactly the size of the outer bushing - will see.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JNPWGBF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Last edited by ZGator; 04-07-2024 at 08:44 PM.
“Great wisdom is generous; petty wisdom is contentious.” 无为
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Been a while!- getting there to actually using this tool - removed a few pieces, preparing for subframe removal.
Need to remove brake lines, speed sensor, and parking brake lines. Then I assume I will take off the subrame bolts, place jacks on L/R sides to support, then remove the diff bolt to drop - will it come right down if level as I have it - or do you have to rock it back forth to release it? If there is a definitive RSFB/SubFrame DIY please point it out!
Notice I painted my exhaust for some reason with high temp paint - after cleaning/sanding off all rust. Not sure if that was a good idea or not but doing a rust removal/paint of anything I see under there. Dam clean for New England -> because I avoid salt..
Found that popped weld - not even quite sure what I took pic of there - I do see a popped weld on top - it might be the same one? or I got 2 popped.
The Center Support Bearing on shaft was in pretty good shape at 24yr/166k - but I think I am going to replace it with a new Rein - making sure to keep alignment. Also putting in new control arms, brakes, brake lines, along with the Flex Joint, Diff Bushing, RSFB and RTABs.
Diff Bushing is hard and cracking. Sway bar link out - showing angle of bushing installation - also replacing those - cracking and old..
20240422_142034-2.jpg20240422_141951-2.jpg20240524_173406-2.jpg20240524_173454-2.jpg20240524_173317-2.jpg
Last edited by ZGator; 05-24-2024 at 08:19 PM.
“Great wisdom is generous; petty wisdom is contentious.” 无为
Member
It's been a few years since I did mine but I do remember that I used an ATV/motercycle jack under the diff. I used a piece of 2" X 6" between the jack and the diff because that type of jack has two rails instead of a platform. After unbolting everything, the subframe came straight down perfectly balanced. It went back up the same way. Some people have struggled with getting the bushings to go back on their pins without binding because the subframe did not go up evenly but the method I used worked great for me.
Confession, I forgot to unplug the speed sensor and didn't notice until I damaged the plug on the end of the wires. Live and learn.
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thank you Hoyt! hmm my 2 jack method might lead to some binding, might rethink that.
Found out that I really don't like the Rein CSB - the rubber looked cracked and center bearing was not the same quality -think I am going to reuse the OG center bearing, add some fresh grease, and use an aftermarket JXB center mount - probably should have left the stock CSB alone I guess.
Last edited by ZGator; 05-27-2024 at 05:59 PM.
“Great wisdom is generous; petty wisdom is contentious.” 无为
Sim Simma
Moderator
I've used rein CSB's on a few cars and never had any issues. The "cracking" you see is the mold release agent, not cracking of the rubber itself. I'm not a big fan of those JXB components - I think you need to allow the driveshaft some movement when the rest of the driveline flexes. With solid or very stiff poly subframe, engine and trans mounts, it may be ok
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The JXB that I bought came with two sets of rubber bushings. A street version that was very plyable, allowed for movement and a race version that was firm. I did a hybrid approach, race bushings around the bearing and the street version where the bracket bolts to the body. It really is a nice setup, very well made.
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Interesting info on the Rein CSB cracking 'marks', but also the bearing was a worry on the Rein CSB -really think the OEM was of better quality. I did install a JXB CSB on my other vehicle - that has over 400 lb ft torque, which had an issue with driveline noise and flex and this fixed the issue. It is easy to install and upgrade or change the rubber bushings with these. Didn't notice any more NVH either, quite the opposite on that install. The street bushings are pretty soft. Agree they are nicely made. No affiliation with JXB.
Last edited by ZGator; 05-28-2024 at 07:17 AM.
“Great wisdom is generous; petty wisdom is contentious.” 无为
Member
Update, pulled out all the rsfb and rtabs, the RTAB tool rod was not quite long enough for rsfb usage with my pipe cup. As with most things it took one rsfb removal all day locating proper rod hardware and washers 2nd took 5 mins. I do have a beat up rtab tool, and rsfb cup if someone wants it for cheap.
Big thumbs up to the P80 emulsion when installing rubber bushings. I use that on rubber, and Super lube on the Poly Bushes.
Last edited by ZGator; 06-20-2024 at 11:00 AM.
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