Replaced the battery after it died after 9 years. Discovered the screen washer pump was dead - new one already here. Wheel off and arch liner out tomorrow.
Drove the car for two hours - sublime.
Edit: Today I replaced the washer pump as it gave up on yesterdays drive, and also replaced the heater valve block on my E34...
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Last edited by E24man; 02-04-2024 at 09:52 AM.
Discovered this. A couple guys in German cut open an E38 fuel tank and answer, once and for all, why they leak, how it happens and where it happens.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=de...hannel=BusMuss
E38 Fuel Tank cut open.jpg
Now we know where the Jet Siphon Pump transfer lines and Baffle Bucket are, and how they are attached in the tank. This might be one small step, but it is a GIANT LEAP for E38 Kind toward a permanent solution.
2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig
Thanks for the interesting video. But what solution other than tank replacement is possible?
Is there a quick summary of what they found available?
I replaced the tank in mine last year, but the leak on mine was very clearly a rust problem. Just above the seam on the driver's side it was rusting through under the paint and had a nice little pinhole. The rest of the tank was ok, so it probably could have been fixed, but I decided it would be easier to just swap it than to try to repair it.
The short version is that the fuel tanks rust from the outside going inward and the prime locations for holes are right above and below the seam where the steel and its zinc coating was stretched the thinnest when the two halves are formed. This explains the failure mode of most E38 tanks and may be what happened to mine too, but I am not quite convinced yet due to the odd failure mode that mine suffered. It left a puddle under the driver side, but I could not determine where it was leaking from. It's been a bit since I looked at it, but it did not look like the seam area at the time. But it completely emptied itself from sitting, which suggests the leak is MUCH lower than the seam area.
A solution is being hammered out while I try to get a donor tank this week. I'll get some more pictures of my original tank today, maybe something will be obvious on it.
2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig
Got a "dumb" question. I went out and took some pictures of my leaking tank around the driver's side perimeter. While look at them, I saw something odd that didn't add up right.
This is the front driver's side of the tank, close to the Drain Loop (center left of picture, look for the hose clamp). I'm not completely sure what this blue line is for, but the rusty coupling section lines up with the stain on the tank pretty well. What is this?
Is this the Return Line, or something else?
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2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig
So I got back out there and took some more pictures, tracing along the blue line's rout. 99% sure it is Emissions/Fuel Vapor since it turns upward right in front of the rear Driver Side tire. While there, I got a couple pics of the wet areas on the fuel tank and think I found where the leak is...
Here's a picture of the Driver's side rear edge of the fuel tank, viewed from directly in front of the tire. The Picture Uploader turned it sideways, so the LEFT side of this image is facing UP. The "lake" is the bottom of the tank (Right side of image).
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2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig
That agrees with how mine failed. Based on the rust bubbling up from under the paint on mine and then gas softening the paint (and it being 1 pretty isolated spot) I think the paint was damaged in one spot and led to rust starting there. The majority of the tank looked perfectly fine.
I did keep the old tank, so maybe I'll clean out any debris that's gotten into it while sitting and see if it can be repaired.
Re installed my instument cluster fully repaired pixels and silver rings. Bestpixelrepair.com did great work.
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Just keeping it reliable and looking decent.
When two different people with a fuel tank for sale get screwy and weird about it at multiple times within 20 miles of each other. The entire English language failed me for a suitable adjective for such. But the proper word exists in German, it has 10 syllables and is 35 letters long.
Bullimischerscheißefressenderkobold
2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig
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Just keeping it reliable and looking decent.
2017 BMW G12 750Li "Giulia"
2014 BMW F32 428i "Bella"
2013 BMW E82 128i "Austin"
2000 BMW E38 750iL "Stella"
EuroFever
Drive fast, Ask Later
So I got busy today to find the fuel leak on my original factory tank, still mounted in the car...
This is dangerous if you are not crazy effing careful like I am. I had a diesel tank repair technician doublechecking my tools, supplies and procedures at every step. I do NOT warrant this procedure as being completely safe, but every known precaution was taken at every turn to remove possible sources of ignition.
Brushless impact wrench from AutoJare, JB Weld TankWeld and a Non-sparking 80-grit nylon abrasive wheel.
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The wheel, $4 from Walmart.
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Dawn Powerwash and a nylon brush got it de-nastied, then everything was rinsed down with steam with a nylon brush to keep from making metal-metal contact. I did this 2-3 times to remove as much fuel residue as possible.
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Start attacking with the brush/impact and the hole appeared. No sparks, nothing on fire and nothing blew up. It is in Zone 1. right around the bottom of where the number was.
Fuel Tank Hole.jpg
Once it stops dripping, I'll clean the area again and repeat the process to look for any other holes.
7 hours later edit:
I just checked the spill bucket, a recycled 1-gallon ice cream bucket, and it is between 1/4 and 1/3 full. Highballing that amount to 1/3 gallon (42.67 fluid ounces or 1.26 liters), the math says it is dripping about 6.1 ounces (180 ml) per hour. Since the Low Fuel Light was on, the most that can be dripping out is ~1.3 gallons because of the pump-driven leveling system
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So I have at least 14 hours before it could be full, if it doesn't taper off.
Last edited by SilverIris; 02-27-2024 at 10:06 PM. Reason: More info
2001 740I M62TUB44: Iris, My daily
1997 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L 4x4: Onyx, the 315k mile tow rig
As a warning, the JB weld fix is probably not going to hold up long term. I tried one of their tank patch products on mine when I had a leak. In parallel, I tested some of the stuff in fuel and determined that gas containing ethanol significantly softened the patch material. Sure enough, it lasted for a while until I said "screw it" on paying the extra dollar per gallon for ethanol free gas. When I started putting E10 in the car again, the patch started leaking within a month or 2.
Doesn’t apply to me but looks like those in (or going through?) VA with modifications may be having some fun soon…
$250 per violation for modified exhaust… one way to combat “excessive noise”…
https://lis.virginia.gov/cgi-bin/leg...?241+ful+HB883
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Hey which size fuel line do you need for this?
Do we need any special line as this is in a hot environment? My fuel line looks a little cracked.
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Suspect my third brake light is not supposed to look like this…
For some reason it is hard to get the bulb from the holder…
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Dinan intake for the M62b46. Got a great deal on it because it’s ugly! Waiting on the water sock to come in then I’ll install it on Saturday
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its mostly just for noise now but once I order the 4inch MAF housing and intake boot, I’ll have a proper 4inch setup for some healthy power gains.
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since I’ve got my N62b48 TB on already, a buddy of mine made me this custom throttle plate as well so all that 4inch intake air doesn’t get choked up right before it gets into the manifold. If Dinan’s numbers are meant to be believed (and corroborated by Dima’s findings on FBO M62TUs), I’m expecting 370hp which should be nice and rowdy.
wonderful! I fixed up mine by opening it up and forcing the plastic piece back to its original position, but since the white plastic piece is already aged, it often find itself stuck again....
Took it along to a Pistonheads Sunday Service and ended up parked next to another V12...
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You might not believe it but the B12 got lots more attention than the Vantage V12S.
Maintenance weekend for me. Finally finished up the accessory belt pulleys, tensioners and belts. Had a mean squeak and it was getting in my last nerve.
Did an oil change, diff fluid flush, valve cleaner and found my rad leaking. I need to work on the cooling system anyways cause the trans oil cooler and Tstat look original.
I also have an e82 in the stable so got to try out my new to me quick jacks from an old 1er owner and it was phenomenal. I plan on using it on the 7 as well but need to get some 2x4’s to extend the jack point reach.
Did an oil change, filters and valve clean on that car as well and I’m happy
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2017 BMW G12 750Li "Giulia"
2014 BMW F32 428i "Bella"
2013 BMW E82 128i "Austin"
2000 BMW E38 750iL "Stella"
EuroFever
Drive fast, Ask Later
Didn't get a picture, but I watched mine roll past the 200k mile mark a few days ago.
Fitted a new aux input that allows bluetooth streaming to the headunit via the tape wires. I had tried an add-on DAB radio but like all DAB reception it was rubbish so now I finally have a phone that runs radio apps as well as Spotify I decided to get off my ass and sort out an input for it.
Learned a new skill and got homelink 4 in Stella! Followed Paul’s guide and learned soldering on the way!
I picked up a mirror from an f01 7 series and just moved the pieces and it worked!
https://imgur.com/a/yNa86ry
2017 BMW G12 750Li "Giulia"
2014 BMW F32 428i "Bella"
2013 BMW E82 128i "Austin"
2000 BMW E38 750iL "Stella"
EuroFever
Drive fast, Ask Later
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