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Thread: Stuttering, can't rev past 4k

  1. #1
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    Stuttering, can't rev past 4k

    I have bosch 40lbs injectors, no tune. No cats it stuttered on stock injectors also.

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  2. #2
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    I’d put known good stock 19lb injectors back in. Then troubleshoot and fix the problem. Dropping in 40lb injectors definitely won’t fix it.

  3. #3
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    Fix all of your vacuum leaks. If your coils are old or original then get a new set. Check that there is no oil in your sparkplug tubes (bad valve cover gasket). Don't buy cheap China new injectors they are garbage.


    You can clear your adaptations by removing the neg from the battery and touching it to the positive.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/133934369553
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
    I’d put known good stock 19lb injectors back in. Then troubleshoot and fix the problem. Dropping in 40lb injectors definitely won’t fix it.
    Stock injectors weren't good. I just bought the cheapest set ECS tuning offered. Didn't it was going to be such a big jump.

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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    Fix all of your vacuum leaks. If your coils are old or original then get a new set. Check that there is no oil in your sparkplug tubes (bad valve cover gasket). Don't buy cheap China new injectors they are garbage.


    You can clear your adaptations by removing the neg from the battery and touching it to the positive.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/133934369553
    Fixed all vacuum leaks. Brand new bremi coils and spark plugs. Valve cover gasket was replaced. Put in 26lbs injectors and a tunes for them. New fuel pump, filter and pressure regulator. Still studders at 2.5k- 3k rpm and won't rev past 4.5k. No loss of power except when studdering.

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  6. #6
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    Clean or replace the speed sensor in the diff.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    Clean or replace the speed sensor in the diff.
    Thank you I'll try that next.

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    Clean or replace the speed sensor in the diff.
    I cleaned the speed sensor and all the abs sensors while I was down there. It didn't change anything. So I just went ahead and order brand new ones. I also went ahead and tested my TPS. Bently manual say the reading should be 1k-4k from closed to open throttle. Mine read 1.2k- 4.02k. Does that mean it's bad?

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  9. #9
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    That reading should be good, tpS doesn't really fail on e36.

    So there's a chance your cat is clogged. Try running a bottle of CRC GTP with some premium gas don't fill the tank and go for a long drive.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    That reading should be good, tpS doesn't really fail on e36.

    So there's a chance your cat is clogged. Try running a bottle of CRC GTP with some premium gas don't fill the tank and go for a long drive.
    I don't have one. I have a straight pipe. What gas is considered premium?

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  11. #11
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    93AKI. Not sure what the m50 need for regular driving, but the m52 needs min 89aki but really it needs 91aki to be detonation free.

    Have you examined your dme both sides for white oxide corrosion?
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    93AKI. Not sure what the m50 need for regular driving, but the m52 needs min 89aki but really it needs 91aki to be detonation free.

    Have you examined your dme both sides for white oxide corrosion?
    I always put 91.

    I cleaned the DME last time you told me to. When I had a no start issue. But I will pull it out and clean it again. You think I have to change the ecu? Maybe put a stand alone in?

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  13. #13
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    Clean it with Deoxit 5% and scrub with an old toothbrush. It has to be 1000% dry before reinstalling.

    Could your clutch be slipping?
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    Clean it with Deoxit 5% and scrub with an old toothbrush. It has to be 1000% dry before reinstalling.

    Could your clutch be slipping?
    Clutch is not necessarily slipping. But it does need to be changed. The throw out barring is bad.

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  15. #15
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    Just to rule things out, is the MAF connector properly connected?
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by MParallel View Post
    Just to rule things out, is the MAF connector properly connected?
    I mean. There's only one way to connect it. It's obd1

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  17. #17
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    Pre cat o2 sensor has been known to cause weird drivability issues with m50, if it's old I would replace it. M50 also has known issues with knock sensors, it's worth doing. While your in there you can clean all the connections with Deoxit 5% and inspect for connection issues.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    Pre cat o2 sensor has been known to cause weird drivability issues with m50, if it's old I would replace it. M50 also has known issues with knock sensors, it's worth doing. While your in there you can clean all the connections with Deoxit 5% and inspect for connection issues.
    O2 sensor has been changed. And knock sensor. They both have a couple thousand miles on them. I'll double check all connections and clean them over the weekend. I'll let you know how it goes.

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  19. #19
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    What brand is the mafs?
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    What brand is the mafs?
    Bremi

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  21. #21
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    Don't know for the m50, but there are a lot of junk mafs that are not following the OEM output and it wreaks havok on fuel trimms. I've returned brands like bremi. Not sure if INPA will show fuel trim info with your DME.

    I think you should test fuel pressure (new fuel pump doesn't mean its good). And do an engine compression test (pump turned off, all spark plugs removed, throttle full open, charger on battery) to make sure engine is healthy.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    Don't know for the m50, but there are a lot of junk mafs that are not following the OEM output and it wreaks havok on fuel trimms. I've returned brands like bremi. Not sure if INPA will show fuel trim info with your DME.

    I think you should test fuel pressure (new fuel pump doesn't mean its good). And do an engine compression test (pump turned off, all spark plugs removed, throttle full open, charger on battery) to make sure engine is healthy.
    I'll add that to the to-do list for the weekend. It ran fine with the bremi MAF in it. This happened after a pedal to the metal drive. I was trying to keep up to my buddy on the motorcycle. When we got to the destination, I just shut the car off. I heard yours suppose to let it cool back down after a hard run.

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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by dima.yarenchak View Post
    I mean. There's only one way to connect it. It's obd1

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    I wasn’t clear enough, I meant locked in place.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by MParallel View Post
    I wasn’t clear enough, I meant locked in place.
    Oh yea. It clicked into place. I tried my old MAF and the difference was major. Obviously the old one was bad.

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