Disclaimer, I'm not a fan of TMS lately, but....
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-4...arms-kit-race/
Adding front track in this manner won't change scrub radius, but what are the downsides to adding track width on the front? (Outside clearance needed, of course).
I'm considering these for 2 reasons. Added camber (I could get rid of my strut/spindle spacers), and (hopefully) added clearance between the LCA and brake rotor. My math shows roughly 1.5deg extra camber from the 10mm longer arm.
You can achieve the same thing with the GC outer balljoint kit, which fits in the stock arms (works on e46 arms as well). I guess you can take your pick which solution is right for you. I have the GC kit on both out e36 and e46 cars. Works well, and you can just swap it into replacement arms, which are pretty cheap to buy if you ever bend something
Those would work, except! I already have the SLR bump/RC kit, and one of the reasons I'm considering the TMS arms is to get more clearance between the end of the LCA and the rotor. With OEM arms, I get a little rub there on the outside edge of the E46 M3 rotor, and if I go to a 13" rotor, it'll rub right on the face of the rotor.
Like some others, I've ground the end of the LCA down a bit, and am a bit concerned to grind more.
Oh crap, yea, these would actually give me more clearance too, if I understand how they work.
Well, I'd have to give up my SLR kit. Which I love due to the increased steering rate. Crap.
Why do I always struggle to get to -4 camber up front? I'm at full stop on my left GC race camber plate, and at -3.8 deg. And, I have ~1.5mm of shims.
Could you slot your strut mount holes? :-)
Think you may have a similar problem to me with your tire setup. Adding caster adds camber I believe so you are a bit stuck given your tire diameter. Bet with stock diameter tires you could add some caster to gain additional camber?
Would a 96+ m3 knuckle setup add camber or reduce camber? Forgot which one.
One of the things I've found out the hard way.... When your chasing tenths in alignment and ride heighths is to make absolutely sure that whatever surface your working on is dead level and
your tire pressures are equal.
When I do them in my home workspace the floor runs out a quarter inch. An eighth or one vinyl tile is .2 degrees camber.
I recently did my new platform on a friends uber super alignment rack. He was a little hurt when I checked the level only to find it was 3/16" L to R and near a 1/4" front to back.
2 yard sticks and 8-10 ft of clear fuel line with water and you can easily check level.
I have considered modifying the strut tower! Just slotting the holes would not be enough, both the top of the camber plate (the part that slides) and the strut rod are at their max and hitting metal.
I *tihnk* the 96+ knuckles do the same thing as my added shims? Not sure either.
Adding castor adds dynamic camber, but not static. I might be able to reduce castor at the plate, and get a touch more static camber. But this is the kind of trade-off I'd like to not have to make.
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Thanks for the reminder, I do check this every so often. The car sits on 2x10's, so it can change. I also need to get an easier way than setting up the strings to get the wheels straight. That matters too.
Another stupid idea, could you run e46 FCA's? Would take some grinding but would give you the additional camber?
I've considered that, I recall investigating and reading they add ~1" to track. That's a bit much.
Here's a good discussion on 95 v 96+ king pin differences, and the punch line is that they add camber at the cost of strut/tire clearance (similar to 95 king pins with spacers).
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...dle&p=20847151
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Another option is to hack/weld the top of the strut towers and mount these where I need them.
1.jpg
Those plates are what I have in my world challenge car. At 3.5 degrees still only halfway through my adjustment range :-)
Proof needed. Pictures!!
Its the spindle differences between a 95 m3 versus 96-99m3. 95 m3 spindle/LCA/LCAB geometry is the same as a non-m whereas the 96+ spindles/LCA/LCAB were unique and provided additional static camber once the OEM top mounts were removed (or repositioned).
Any new lap videos with the s54 on tap?
The top mount plates is the right way to do it. Cut the tower flat, weld on a big flat plate, and put that camber plate on top. As a bonus, you get more damper travel.
struttop.jpg
Last edited by ScotcH; 06-14-2023 at 12:08 PM.
Showoff, with that pretty looking engine bay.
Nothing exciting, but maybe in a few weeks. Until then, I posted a dyno run:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...5#post30888915
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Yes!!!
Lol ... not that nice ... hammer out the crumples, and some rattle can
Now this one is a show off
20230419_223824 (1).jpg
I think PTG had a similar design. Can’t figure out why they’re mounted to adjust longitudinally. Any ideas?
the old group A/dtm front setup has camber adjusted on a turn buckle on the lower control arm. and castor adjusted on the strut top. also this adds a "thrust" arm like a e28/e34 and watching the impacts of e30 m3 dtm cars you can see how much stronger this setup is that anything else.,
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