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Thread: Suspension & Wheels: 2000 M Coupe

  1. #1
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    Suspension & Wheels: 2000 M Coupe

    I have a completely stock 2000 M Coupe. Not only is it stock, but the miles are pretty low and most parts are original to the car. I'm thinking of the following changes:

    updating the suspension with coilovers
    new 18" wheels (replace stock 17")

    Should I do the suspension work first before doing new wheels and tires? Does the order make a difference?
    Last edited by varoom; 06-03-2023 at 09:42 PM.

  2. #2
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    How does the car drive? What are your intended driving goals - track, auto-x, spirited street?
    The stock suspension is generally good for about 50-60k miles. The rubber bushings do age out and I recommend replacing the rubber subframe carrier bushings with poly units to firm up the handling and protect your diff mount welds. You can replace other bushings like FLCABs and RTABs if you really want sharp handling, but ride quality will be very firm. Coilovers are really not needed for a street driven car.

    18" wheels are generally heavier and tires selection is more limited and expensive, but if the aesthetics appeal to you, go for it.

    If your tires are more than 8 years old, replace those first. New high quality 200 TW tires will make a remarkable difference.
    Kelvin

  3. #3
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    Thanks Kelvin for the helpful response. The car drives well and spirited street is about as far as I would go. It will be used primarily for touring.

    The car has 67k miles and was owned by an elderly lady (I'm serious) who bought it new in her 60s and used it until her 80s. I mention all this because I do not think this car was ever driven hard and absolutely everything is original. I have had the car for a couple of years and I don't think I have driven it more than 250 miles. I did take it to the BMW dealer for a service last year and the mechanic said it was in good shape.

    Anyway, I want to start using the car and take it on road trips so I am thinking about the things that should be addressed given the age and mileage.

    It needs tires and one rim is slightly bent so I thought I would start there. If I can stick with 17s that's fine with me but I have to say I like the look of some stepped-lip wheels. I'm also thinking about the cooling fan given what I have read. Your advice regarding the bushings is excellent and I'll look into that. Are subframe carrier bushings something I can do at home on jacks? Thank again, Jim
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  4. #4
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    If you're going to be doing any extended touring, refresh all rubber parts. Hoses, both radiator and vacuum, belts and radiator. The radiator has plastic sides. Over heating can cause major damage very quickly.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by varoom View Post
    Your advice regarding the bushings is excellent and I'll look into that. Are subframe carrier bushings something I can do at home on jacks? Thank again, Jim
    I did mine myself. I'd call myself fairly handy but with not a lot of automotive experience. I'd say if you can replace shocks, you can replace the RSFBs. You'll find threads on this forum to guide you.

    'nice find by the way.

  6. #6
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    First of all is money. If you have gobs of it and want to play with you car, advice would be different than if you are on a budget. The stock 17"rims are pretty nice looking and just right for the car. Put some really great tires on it. I'd read up on coilovers, and other options, like the popular H&R spring/Koni shock setup, before buying. I've said many times that all Z3s should have poly subframe bushings, because the car feels and handles so much better, but you don't seem to be interested in that. (On the other hand, money would be better spent on poly SF bushings than on coilovers.) Indiana has the right idea: make the car reliable first. At 67k I'd check bushings before just replacing everything in sight. Another mod not yet mentioned, but such a nice improvement for the money, is a SS clutch line.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by varoom View Post
    Are subframe carrier bushings something I can do at home on jacks? Thank again, Jim
    The short answer is yes, you can do it on jackstands, or better yet with a QuickJack. The job is tedious but doable in a weekend; there are excellent threads on this forum and there is also a helpful FB page dealing with Z3 Maintenance and Repair issues that is well moderated if you run into issues. I have done it five times by myself and it is a rite of passage for the DIY'ers around here. If you are interested in learning the mechanical workings of your car, this is a great opportunity to inspect a lot of the important driveline components of your car.
    Kelvin

  8. #8
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    If you plan on using the jack stands, consider getting a transmission jack (or borrow one). That will become very handy when you drop the differential box.
    2000 Z3 M Titanium Silver / Imola Red+Black Nappa
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  9. #9
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    Sound advice from everyone. I will start with rubber (poly bushings, tires, hoses, etc.) and go from there.

    IndianaRoadster: are you suggesting I replace the radiator? Also, your car looks great! Is your 17" Rondell/Nitto setup on a stock suspension?
    Last edited by varoom; 06-10-2023 at 01:04 PM.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by varoom View Post
    Sound advice from everyone. I will start with rubber (poly bushings, tires, hoses, etc.) and go from there.

    IndianaRoadster: are you suggesting I replace the radiator? Also, your car looks great! Is your 17" Rondell/Nitto setup on a stock suspension?
    Thank you, concerning your radiator, if those plastic sides crack while you're going down the highway, you could lose enough coolant to cause major problems before you would realize what's happening. You can get some reasonable priced aluminum radiators if you check around. Suspension, no it's not stock, although I saved everything I replaced. I went with the TC Kline double adjustable coilovers with their lowering springs. The springs sit on a adjustable perch so you can dial in what ever height you want. I think I'm down a inch or inch and a half. When I had the subframe out to swap in the new subframe bushings, I welded on the toe/camber kit so that I can now have the rear end aligned. If you lower with out doing this, you will have excessive camber and toe.

  11. #11
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    Thank you for the advice on the radiator. I will probably use its replacement as an opportunity to change the water pump and delete the fan. I bet your car drives as good as it looks. I checked online and I'm not sure Rondell is around anymore.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by varoom View Post
    Thank you for the advice on the radiator. I will probably use its replacement as an opportunity to change the water pump and delete the fan. I bet your car drives as good as it looks. I checked online and I'm not sure Rondell is around anymore.
    The Rondells I have come from two different BMW's lines. I think if I remember correctly, that the 17×8's for the front comes from the three series and the 17×10's come from the five series, or something like that. I found mine on German ebay.

  13. #13
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    +1 on the rubber suspension refresh. It makes a world of difference.

    Strut tower mounts are probably rock hard after a quarter of a century but camber plates will eventually crack your strut towers.

    Urethane subframe bushings are a must have on every Z3, even when they were new.

    Control arms should be replaced too if you actually like handling.

    Engine mounts are pretty easy while you're in there kind of thing.

    Probably needs a guibo by now.

    As far as suspension, I've had everything ever made that wasn't cheap chinesium and the adjustable koni yellows and H&R springs are the cheapest and the best ride and handling of everything on the market.

    As far as wheels go, if the new wheel/tire package weighs more than factory you will absolutely feel it in the acceleration response.
    White is Right, Steel Grey is OK, but Estoril is the only color that truly matters.

    I like Coupes.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpire View Post
    +1 on the rubber suspension refresh. It makes a world of difference.

    Strut tower mounts are probably rock hard after a quarter of a century but camber plates will eventually crack your strut towers.

    Urethane subframe bushings are a must have on every Z3, even when they were new.

    Control arms should be replaced too if you actually like handling.

    Engine mounts are pretty easy while you're in there kind of thing.

    Probably needs a guibo by now.

    As far as suspension, I've had everything ever made that wasn't cheap chinesium and the adjustable koni yellows and H&R springs are the cheapest and the best ride and handling of everything on the market.

    As far as wheels go, if the new wheel/tire package weighs more than factory you will absolutely feel it in the acceleration response.
    Mpire, what are you exactly referring to when you say, "Control arms should be replaced too if you actually like handling."? Are you talking about just the bushings?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by IndianaRoadster View Post
    Mpire, what are you exactly referring to when you say, "Control arms should be replaced too if you actually like handling."? Are you talking about just the bushings?
    I'm guessing that he is referring to the actual control arms (or replacing the ball joints only if they are serviceable).
    Last edited by nevan; 06-14-2023 at 01:05 PM.
    2000 Z3 M Titanium Silver / Imola Red+Black Nappa
    2011 328i E92 Space Gray Metallic / Leder Dakota+Oyster
    Since 1987 12 euros / 2 kdms / 2 jdms
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