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So did some searching..mostly older threads. Seems lots of newer threads were all over the place as far as products and materials. So I thought I would post up what I am using to redo the headliner in my 97 M3, and to see if anyone has any better suggestions.
As far as adhesive, I KNOW I am using the 3M stuff...just cause I have used it before. For material I am buying from europeanautointeriors.com and using their BM134 because it has a foam backing. For the A pillars I'll be using BM3109, same as BM134 but instead it has felt backing. Looks like a pretty good match from what I see.
https://www.europeanautointeriors.co...BMW&item=BM134
Not my first BMW, but my first E36..and I have heard the stories regarding the A pillar clip holders breaking upon removal. That being said I did some hunting and found more than a few people offering various version of 3D printed replacement tabs. Cut out the old..glue in the new tabs. Looking like the most complete..and well built option...is from K-2 Industries.
https://www.k2-industries.com/collec...44028784574698
So hopefully this is helpful to anyone with a recent search. If anyone has any better suggestions..please chime in!
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BMW E36 M3 Expert
JFC. What a bunch of trash they offer. Best of luck with that.Originally Posted by DrPatTCakes
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Care to provide a little more explination?
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This has been covered at nauseum, this thread has some info.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...aterial-Source
To be honest though most all options suck, i wish someone would offer whole replacements
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I posted this in that other thread, too:
"I don't know why people don't use these mounting tabs from the E30 / E32 / E34: 51441957623
They're similar to the aftermarket parts people use but they have immensely more surface area. I have some on the way to fix my A and C pillars."
They haven't arrived yet, but when they do, I'll report back.
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Much appreciated...how long ago did you order them?
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Yep thats me, this has been my best approach so far. Next step will be trying those other OEM tabs shown above (51441957623) and melting those in. Epoxy alone does NOT hold up to the heat.
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oatey ABS cement always worked good for me to solvent melt cracked plastics back together. I have been using those in my e30, e36, and e46 tabs so for over last 30 years and they held up fine.
It is one step approach before I use stapling weld method (and if sever enough, I use a combination of both).
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Thank you for the replies, Yeah Im currently switching to use these OEM tabs and see how it goes. Material looks good so going to go ahead and order that too. May even start a build thread for the car
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BMW E36 M3 Expert
I think this picture sums up the effort being put into the parts being made. Retched.
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Yeah those look cheap...just going to order and mod OEM ones with part number provided.
So when I went to order from European Auto Interiors..their system would not let a order go through. When I tried the help function...took me to a dead page. So I am not even sure they are in business as I have no way to contact. Looks like I am still hunting for headliner material
Last edited by DrPatTCakes; 05-24-2023 at 06:50 PM.
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Try calling Veteran Co in Southern California.
Ask for BM134 headliner material. You will need the non foam backed headliner material for the A pillar and C pillar (BM3109). Last time I ordered the BM134 material it was$41.00/yard.
However, you could use foam backed material for the entire job.. my brother installed foam backed material on his A pillars and it turned out really nice.
Last edited by Johal E32; 05-25-2023 at 12:35 PM.
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Thank you so much...I thought i Was at a dead end there for a second. I gave them a call and they got 5 yards sent out. And ended up ordering the OEM tabs...we'll see how it goes
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I finally got my tabs today. May or may not get to that this weekend. I'll keep you posted. I got the Plast-Aid glue that was recommended - we'll see how that works...
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You will like it. It is weird to use the first time but once you see how it sets up..its easy. Technically I dont think it is the same type of plastic, so rough thing up to allow a good bond. I have used it to fix motorcycle plastics and also attach my passenger vent trim piece from the back
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shade tree mechanic
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any update/pics/info/hints?
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
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+1 im onto round 3 of headliner.
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My headliner itself had a crease where it had folded over before I got the car. I ended up trashing it. So I need to find a headliner that I can get so that I can redo it.
- - - Updated - - -
Always look forward to seeing how others did theirs.
Member
I'll have time next week (MAAAYYYYYBE tomorrow) to finally do this. I'll update you guys on the tabs / glue situation and how well it all works. (I'm also picking up a full set of fairly nice looking dove sedan seats - front, rear, and door cards tomorrow. My rear seats are trashed, and this is JUST what I've been keeping an eye out for).
I should also note that the last time I did this (this suede-ey stuff is my SECOND round of headliner redo. Texas is hot...) The rear side will not stay hooked over the metal tab that runs across the rear above the window. I don't know if the fiberboard is weakened after having done this multiple times or the padded headliner material makes it hard to stay hooked over it, but it comes unhooked and falls / sags down a little when the wind buffets it when I drive with the windows down (which is all the time). I think the C pillar not being a tight as it could be is part of it, but I still think it would come undone.
Anyway, I've used velcro strips on the pillars (with mixed results), but a long strip of it just inside along the back makes more sense to help the top stay hooked where it's supposed to. It has worked fairly well so far. We'll see how it holds up in the summer heat.
-Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.
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OK, done (mostly).
This worked like a charm. While it wasn't as straight forward as I expected, I have no question this is the right approach, including the glue.
So first, I needed to curve the replacement tabs for the A pillars, and I needed to fold and notch the tabs for the C pillar.
I knew I'd need to curve the front ones, but I naievely thought the rears I'd just sand flat and glue - it's been so long I'd completely forgotten they were raised. But ultimately not a big deal.
So I used my stove to heat them up, bent them when they were hot, and then doused them to set the shape. Then I used my dremel to cut the notches and cut off the ends. I figured the cross buttresses were originally centered on the tab, so I cut the slot in the center.
20230612_211727.jpg20230612_230812.jpg20230613_014349.jpg
I had a huge mess to clean up - I had a ton of tacky backing that came off the back of the velcro I had used to temporarily attach the covers to the pillars. But I figured that was probably important to get a good bond.
The glue was a little weird - it progressed from too runny to too thick pretty quickly, but a little extra fluid helped reset the timer on that.
Normally, I'd have drilled holes in all the C pillar tabs and then used some nylon thread to "fiber reinforce" - aka SEW - the tabs in place. This is one of the best hacks I've ever come up with - drilling small holes, sewing things in place, and then soaking the whole operation in glue. This has worked great in the past for things under tension that aren't really a great fit for being glued. But this was so hard - and the nature of the bond was so different than conventional glue - I didn't feel like this was necessary.
In any case, it all worked great. Because of folding them in half the tabs weren't perfectly aligned, and I had one of the top tabs on the C pillar seat while one of the other ones missed. This glue was strong enough to pull the seated tab back out so I could reposition the one that was missing.
Finally, I don't think this will get weaker or fail due to heat - it's just not the nature of the glue. It's essentially chemically melted together.
Having said all that, I will NOT be testing the A pillar bond until I have to! But for now everything is in place and finally fitting together again as it was originally designed.
20230613_081351.jpg
-Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.
Member
Solid write up, excited to hear about the longevity of this route. I like some of the methods used.
Member
2 month bump.
ecs has the clips on sale for under 2 bucks right now , if im remembering right 14 are needed? so a 20 part order will be more then enough
then comes to headliner material in the same shade as the black sun visors. the oem matched very well. the bs black i got last time was dramatically darker. the alcantara i initially ordered was a better match but my shop refused to use it. ive yet to hear of an accurate oem material match publicly discussed. i trashes 3 yards trying to do this with only 2 people. it requires 3 from my experience 2 for holding material and someone with girl paws for smush.
also comes in to rewraping the sunroof surround piece. finding an identical material with no backing to use in this location, or stripping the backing from the new material without stretching.
also 3m green spray can adhesive? or is there a better modern alternative that wont bleed through the material? or any other incite so i can avoid round 4 or headliner?
Member
@scoob yup, good math: 3 clips on the A and 4 on the C pillars is 7, times 2 =14.
Good luck with the work - I did a terrible job the first time, so I've paid for it twice now. The first time was super cheap and lasted 10 years, 5 of it parking in the Texas sun.
With covered parking and now not having to physically GO to work anymore I'm hoping it lasts at least twice as long this time. That would make me almost 70 if I have to redo it one more time...
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I have had terrible luck with the 3m spray can adhesive, pretty disappointed in it to be honest. Even with a car that is always covered or in a garage.
This winter I'll be redoing mine (did it last winter) and using weldwood landau and trim contact adhesive. Have spoke to numerous professional interior guys and this is what they use. needs to be applied pneumatically with a spray gun.
Also working on an alternate mounting solution to the tabs, cause at the end of the day ill never be happy with them. will probably start a thread on this at some point. the pillars are my biggest gripe with the e36 chassis.
Member
I tried some other mounting options and it's really hard to make them sit correctly if they're not being held at the right locations. I used heavy duty velcro with sticky backing and it worked great for the A pillars as far as holding up, but getting them to sit right was impossible.
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