Brass color flacks in coolant overflow tank?

[msiert]

Water pump going out or could the brass like dust be from the radiator?

In checking the coolant system today I used a mighty vac to suck out the coolant in my overflow tank and found brass color dust and the coolant had a rust color to it? The metal dust does not stick to a magnet. It’s been 5-6 years since the system was flushed out and at that time a new radiator and water pump was installed.

Symptoms:
I have heard a faint squeal every once in a great while durning warm ups I haven’t be able to pin point where the sound is coming from but my guess was more towards the distributor than the water pump. But I believe after I oiled the distributor shaft that helped if not eliminated the noise.

The temp gauge is acting normal at mid point with the warmer days maybe a thin hair over mid point. With the a/c on it has been climbing towards the 3/4 point when it’s in the low 80’s which seems hotter than the past summer but the loose hose clamps might be the reason for that? This is why I check the system today.

The fan has a small (1/8”) rotational play but no play in any other direction?


Attachment 715971

[YoungSensei]

If you replaced the water pump and radiator last time you did major cooling system service, then that really only leaves the engine and heater core from where these deposits could be coming from. If you dont smell coolant in the cabin with the heat running, then your heating core is probably fine. This minor sediment is not necessarily a huge concern imho, as long as you don't have major ups and downs in the temp gauge, possibly indicating a blockage of some sort. Make sure you are using distilled water if mixing coolant yourself, otherwise minerals from normal tap water will cause sedimentation issues.

[msiert]

After replacing the radiator cap and tightening the loose hose clamps the temp gauge is rock solid at 5/8 with the a/c on at 80F outside temperature and at long red lights it stays under 3/4.

Normal driving without the a/c the gauge is rock solid at 1/2.

Think I will just flush the system out and keep an eye on it.

But if do wind up having to replace it,

At Pelican Parts I see the genuine, BMW water pump is $328 the Graft is @ $46.75 and Meyle is @ $50.25.

Should I pay extra for the genuine BMW part?

[YoungSensei]

After replacing the radiator cap and tightening the loose hose clamps the temp gauge is rock solid at 5/8 with the a/c on at 80F outside temperature and at long red lights it stays under 3/4.

Normal driving without the a/c the gauge is rock solid at 1/2.

Think I will just flush the system out and keep an eye on it.

But if do wind up having to replace it,

At Pelican Parts I see the genuine, BMW water pump is $328 the Graft is @ $46.75 and Meyle is @ $50.25.

Should I pay extra for the genuine BMW part?

I would not personally. I just bought a Graf waterpump and installed it last week. Meyle is also a well known brand. Can't go wrong with either. Also, ensure your electrical fan is operating when the AC is turned on. Fan should be spinning with ac switched on.

I personally dont have an e21 equipped with an ac system, but you may also check the compressor's oil level itself and ensure that it is maintained as well. An increased working load can lead to increased heat being generate, both on the compressor and the engine itself.

[msiert]

Good information, the genuine BMW water pump is probably made in Spain now anyway?
Thanks for the help!