I broke one of the 2 bolts that hold the lower control arm bushing to the frame. It looks like you can take the threaded part out of the frame itself, how do I do that? Just hit it with a hammer or do I need to heat it up? And how do I get the old one out and put the new one in?
E46 chassis?
Welcome to the Forum!
+1
It helps not to guess here, as we are not standing by the vehicle so if you can be as descriptive as possible, that will be a big help.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
Yeah its a 2004 325i. It's one of the two bolts that mount the lower control arm bushing to the frame. It broke off and about half an inch of it is still sticking out.
Seems like is could be removed with Vise-Grips….no?
+1.
First, soak the remains in PB Blaster. Then, an hour later, hit the bolt itself with an oxy-acetylene torch, until it's red. Then spray it heavily with PB Blaster, again, followed by another dose when it's cooled. Let it sit overnight, then repeat the process, except this time, while the bolt is red hot, lock a big pair of vise grips on it, tighter than tight. Nor begin the extraction; you're looking for an 1/8 of a turn at a time, then spray with PB, and heat again. Repeat until the bolt remains come loose, and every other time,TIGHTEN the bolt 1/16 of a turn, to work the PB Blaster into the threads.
DON'T rush this -- your next shot is your very best shot, and any other alternative is very ugly, at best.
If you don't have an oxy-acetylene torch, have the car towed to someone who does.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
The other method is to weld a nut onto the remains of the bolt and pretty much do the same thing, this is something a shop should handle.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
I agree with Darin; the welded nut is far better than vice-grips for this!
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Theres no way to get the threaded insert out of the frame and replace it with a new one?
You can try to drill and tap, but here's the rub: It's very difficult to get centered on a busted bolt with a drill bit. If you get extremely lucky, and you hit center, then you get a proper sized bit in there, the bolt will back out.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
Well, if you took the car to a REALLY good collision repair shop, along with a sawed-off , foot long piece of another E46's frame rail and floor pan, I suppose they could section your frame, and weld the new piece in. I think you'd be a lot better off using the above methods to get the bolt out though.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
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