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Thread: Hard shifting

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    1994 BMW 325iC

    Hard shifting

    I know this has been talked about a lot, can’t seem the find the answer that makes sense other than a new clutch.

    Basically, car has a super low clutch engagement point, makes it hard to get into gear but no funny noises coming from the transmission when operating the clutch.

    Full hydraulic system has been replaced (new master, slave, and stainless steel line) and bled by flipping the slave & pumping the slave.

    Any ideas?

  2. #2
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    We literally just discussed this. Have you done any homework yet?

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ot-disengaging

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by blckstrm View Post
    We literally just discussed this. Have you done any homework yet?

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ot-disengaging
    My fault I didn’t see the thread. Sorry about that but thank you for the link.


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  4. #4
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    Okay sorry to revive this thread but new information to add.

    Did my trans fluid, checked the pivot pin, everything looks good. I’ve noticed that the hard shift is only sometimes. There are points when the shift is like butter, and points where it doesn’t fully disengage or feels hard to shift. I have also noticed that sometimes when operating the clutch pedal, towards the bottom of travel, it will feel like it bottoms out then clicks past and fully disengages. Sometimes when I push the clutch in, let it out, and push in again, the engagement feels smoother.

    Any new ideas here ? (Pedal bushing has been done)

  5. #5
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    99 M3

    Hard shifting

    I would bleed once again and push fluid thru the slave.
    How many miles on this package?
    Last edited by bluptgm3; 06-16-2023 at 01:35 AM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluptgm3 View Post
    I would bleed once again and plus fluid thru the slave.
    How many miles on this package?
    Probably about 300 miles since bushing & master, around 800 since the slave & clutch line got replaced.
    Trans fluid was done yesterday so less then 100. When bleeding I pulled the slave off and flipped it to get the air. You recommend pushing fluid through instead?


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  7. #7
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    Hard shifting

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Nvo...w?usp=drivesdk

    vacuum bled my slave, this is how my car shifts right now. at this point i might as well just take it to a shop.

    shifts perfectly when the car is not on.

    edit again: the clicking thing i was talking about was the pedal sliding off the threaded part for where the clutch stop goes. when it does, the master extends far enough for everything to work smoothly.


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    Last edited by sheeshryan; 06-15-2023 at 02:35 PM.

  8. #8
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    [QUOTE=

    edit again: the clicking thing i was talking about was the pedal sliding off the threaded part for where the clutch stop goes. when it does, the master extends far enough for everything to work smoothly.
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

    If I'm reading this correctly, the solution is to remove the clutch stop.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by sheeshryan View Post
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Nvo...w?usp=drivesdk

    vacuum bled my slave, this is how my car shifts right now. at this point i might as well just take it to a shop.

    shifts perfectly when the car is not on.

    edit again: the clicking thing i was talking about was the pedal sliding off the threaded part for where the clutch stop goes. when it does, the master extends far enough for everything to work smoothly.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    You have one of a couple problems. Either your pivot pin is flattening (especially brass, but stainless will do this too), your TOB is oriented wrong, or your pressure plate has some issue (not bolted in right, fingers going bad, cracked, etc). That other thread I referenced had some good explanations.

    How long has the engagement point been close to the floor? When was the clutch last replaced?

  10. #10
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    Hard shifting

    Quote Originally Posted by blckstrm View Post
    You have one of a couple problems. Either your pivot pin is flattening (especially brass, but stainless will do this too), your TOB is oriented wrong, or your pressure plate has some issue (not bolted in right, fingers going bad, cracked, etc). That other thread I referenced had some good explanations.

    How long has the engagement point been close to the floor? When was the clutch last replaced?
    Had the car about 6 months, as far as I can remember the engagement has been low, but seems to be lower and lower. Which I assume is leading to your point about the pivot pin. And clutch was put in when the manual swap was done 2 years ago, about 15,000 miles ago or so (po didn’t drive the car nearly as much as I do now)

    What I’m assuming is that I’m going to have to drop the trans anyways lol


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    Last edited by sheeshryan; 06-16-2023 at 06:44 PM.

  11. #11
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    final update: dropped the trans yesterday and found the tob was misaligned. how that happened beats me. but overall the tob looked good so realinged it and threw it back. pivot pin looked good too but replaced with a fresh pin & clip anyways (pelican parts had given me the wrong tob).

    anyways, no more low engagement, everything is good again.
    thank you guys.


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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by sheeshryan View Post
    final update: dropped the trans yesterday and found the tob was misaligned. how that happened beats me. but overall the tob looked good so realinged it and threw it back. pivot pin looked good too but replaced with a fresh pin & clip anyways (pelican parts had given me the wrong tob).

    anyways, no more low engagement, everything is good again.
    thank you guys.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks for posting an updated resolution for your issue. Sucks you had to pull the transmission again but good to see you got it working properly.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by sheeshryan View Post
    final update: ....... (pelican parts had given me the wrong tob).

    anyways, no more low engagement, everything is good again.
    thank you guys.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I"m just commenting for future readers: ALWAYS COMPARE NEW PART TO OLD PART!!! About 1/4 of all auto parts you buy will be wrong, by your mistake, vendor mistake, or "computer error."

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