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SOLVED-6L45 tranny/Transfercase issue-No engagememnt in any gear
2007 BMW 328iX 4DR sedan with the 6L45 transmission.
Had the Manual Valve Assembly Part No. 104740-24K
replaced(because no engagement of any gear) @another shop. Since it replaced still getting no engagement in any gear. So brought to me and went thru the basics(checking fluid level and type{they used a parts store bought "ATF/CVT Universal" fluid}not DEXRON VI) verified valve operation(movement of valve forward and back) and so I changed fluid(followed fill procedure). Cleared codes and tried transmission with failure. Re-scanned for codes and got the following codes- 56BA, 56BC, and 55C3. Any suggestions of where to proceed next would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by r8er4ever; 05-26-2023 at 01:52 PM.
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I am hoping to find some advice on whether this is a trans or transfer case issue or both. It almost always returns the same 3 codes(after clearing them) when I try to get it engaged(up on lift)
56BA, 56BC, and 55C3. After clearing codes and first start up, foot on brake and placing into gear will for a second or 2 drop idle then it returns to idle it had before shifted. It's kinda like it try's to engage but then returns to a non-engagement status. And I repeat this only happens on first attempt after clearing codes otherwise all other times nothing happens and then soon after codes return. If rev it that's all that happens engine revs up.
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Well transmission is is not priority 1 anymore. Battery voltage got low so thru a charger on it and now will crank but not start. So need to figure no-start issue before can continue. Does anyone know if by disconnecting the battery to re-charge it does it need to be registered again?
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Sometimes you get so wrapped up into a issue on a car that you forget the basics. Like the fuel level in the tank
Dumped in 3 gallons in fired right up. So back to the movement issue. I am starting to think I am not asking the question right or no one knows how(or doesn't want) to help with this issue.
On the cluster I am getting a triangle with a arrow line encircling it and a triangle with the 4X4 on it both in amber color.
4xxxxxxxx4.jpgesc.jpg
I also have a red "Brake" lite up but I am almost positive that is in relation to the broken front pad wear sensor
brk.jpg
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The infamous trifecta lights.. What are the codes when you plug in the scanner?
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Sorry been very busy day here. But codes- 56BA, 56BC, and 55C3
Thanks for reply. I think the "Brake" light is due to a broken front left pad wear sensor.
Last edited by r8er4ever; 05-18-2023 at 07:27 PM.
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I don't think you need to re-register the battery. If you do, I believe the system will reset the time counter for the battery as if it's a new battery. Then the car will think the battery life span will last however BMW determines the battery life span is. Then 6 months later the car will act whacky because the battery is actually old and depleted, but the car thinks the battery is only 6 months old.
As far as the tranny. The tranny was acting funny when I got the car. I have a post about it. I changed the fluid, but I didn't shift through all gears during fill up. I put the car down, started the car and when I went into reverse, nothing.. I selected every gear and nothing.. Car didn't engage. My heart dropped. So I put the car on stands, did some research and apparently, I didn't follow the process in detail. So, I started the car, let the tranny warm up, added oil until it seeped, hopped in the car while it was idling on the stands, shifted through all the gears several times and I can feel the car bump through the gears. Phew.... That was scary. Put the car on the ground, reset the transmission using the gas pedal method and drove the car! I was able to go through all the gears. The car drove the same for about 10 miles and all of a sudden, it drove like new. Still drives great 4 months later.
When I got those infamous lights, at first I thought it was the transfer case motor. I replaced the motor and the lights remained. The original motor was absolutely fine. At least I now have a spare. LOL Then I checked the codes and it said driver side rear speed sensor. I replaced the sensor. Lights disappeared and I thought I won, but after driving a bit the lights came back on. At this point I was starting to turn green. I decided to replace the upper control arm on that wheel, because the bushings were worn. I started the car and voila, the lights were gone, so it showed. Drove a couple of miles and then..., the trifecta lights jump scared me. Just before my shirt and pants were about to tear, I did a little research and found some people had the same issue and it was their wheel bearings. So, I decided to pull out the speed sensor on the rear driver side wheel and peek through the hole. The bearing looked mangled. So, I decided to replace the bearing and voila... Lights went in hiding. Couple months have passed and still no lights.
I know the trifecta lights can point to several things, but after process of elimination, I was left with the wheel bearing and replacing the bearing solved my problem.
How old is the battery? A dying battery can cause a bunch of problems on our cars.
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The battery is a little under 8 months old. Charged it and it is working fine now, turns out ran out of fuel.
I followed a procedure I found on this site(I think hard to remember)
Warm Transmission to 80F
Check fluid level for full
N>R-*
N>DS-*
DS-1,2,3,4,5,6,5,4,3,2,1
N>D-15 seconds-*
D>R-2 seconds-#
R>D-2 seconds-#
*-Brake applied
#- No brake
N-Neutral
R-Reverse
D-Drive
DS-Manual Shift
And still no change. One thing i do notice is that with the car on my lift I find it harder then other to spin the wheels by hand. Don't know if it designed that way to prevent rolling or something bound like brakes not fully releasing. Gonna try crack open bleeders to release any built pressure if any and try again. But even so would think transmission could overcome this if I can still turn them by hand. I am really thinking about getting a valve body for it but wish could confirm the issue is transmission or transfer case first.
Does anyone know if with a Autel Maxi-sys mini MS905 scanner if there some way to tell?
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Well finally got it working great again. Turns out that the previous shop when replacing the Manual Valve Assembly had bent a pin in the plug for the valve body(big round plug), also they didn't torque the valve body bolts down. And I should've caught this right off when it would only take 4Qrts to fill it. Because after fixing bent pin(very carefully and slowly) and now filling(W/6Qrts) to full, Clearing codes and then going thru procedure stated above you can imagine my excitement when my helper said they were moving(tires). So long test drive going thru all gears up and down, confirmed it repaired and returned to customer. BUT-
Only to see it pull back up 2 days later and my heart dropped OH S#*&! But turns out when he went to get it emission tested for our area, it failed because of P2570 so radiator time I guess. Why couldn't bimmer make that dam sensor(ozone) replaceable.
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You can replaced the radiator sensor. It's a Mercedes part. You'd have to splice the cable, pull off the Mercedes connector and replace it with the BMW connector. Make sure to note the wiring orientation to match the radiator connector. Gotta love BMW! LOLOriginally Posted by r8er4ever
- - - Updated - - -
The new Supra uses a bunch of BMW parts! LOL Just like Lamborghini uses Audi parts. They're all connected! It's a conspiracy!! LOL
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Mercedes 2219055600 is the part number for the EAC sensor. I'm sure my time will come to replace the radiator, but I will get an aluminum high flow with a radiator fan from a crown vic.
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