Hello Community,
I recently replaced my soft top, and when I got home from the trim shop I was not able to engage the parking brake. When I pull up on the handle I feel the resistance of the brake cable and it stops the car from moving. However, the handle doesn't lock into place. It doesn't have the normal clicking increments as I pull up on the brake handle. I reached out to the trim shop and asked if replacing the top could have interfered with the parking brake. Naturally they said no! It doesn't seem that it would.
Two questions:
1) Could replacing the top have any connection to the parking brake issue?
2) Is this a DIY fix or does it require bringing to a mechanic?
As always, thank you for helping out
Cheers!
I googled " z3 parking bfrake does not ratchet " and got a few answers, some are threads on this site.
I would remove the hand brake boot and see what's going on in there.
Below are links to the Parking brake diagrams from Realoem.com. I don't know how it works, but the parking brake shoes diagram has a part (#3) called "Expanding lock" which, at least, sounds like it could be the problem.
Z3 M Handbrake lever
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=34_0550
Z3 M Parking brake/brake shoes
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=34_0930
2002 M Roadster, Steel Gray Metailic, Gray Nappa Leather, Black Soft Top, Steel Gray Metailic Hard Top, TC Kline Double Adj Shocks with H&R Springs, Stromung Exhaust, SSR Type C Wheels. Looking for a new home.
2022 Z4 M40i, Misano Blue Metallic, Prem Pkg, Driver Assistance Pkg
2023 X5 M50, Phytonic Blue, Black Extended Merion Leather, Driving Asst Pro Pkg, Park Asst Pkg, Exec Pkg, Climate Comfort Pkg.
My mechanic says that I need to replace the parking lever. Anyone here replaced one, themselves? Looks like I need to remove the rear part of the center console and disconnect the two cables from the assembly. Anything else I need to be aware of or should I give to my mechanic at $150+/hr to replace?
Thanks
Also the lead end can come off the pull cable. It would be odd for it to happen to both sides. The end of #1 inserts thru #5, from the diagram supplied above.
Last edited by bluptgm3; 05-17-2023 at 09:52 PM.
1) Could replacing the top have any connection to the parking brake issue?
2) Is this a DIY fix or does it require bringing to a mechanic?
1) There should be no connection between replacing the top and a parking brake issue. That said, there should be no need to take a car out for a test drive after installing new tires and yet, as I sat in the waiting room, I saw my car come speeding into the garage's parking lot. 'no more business for them.
2) Have you even taken the boot off to see what's going on in there? It's been a while since I looked at mine for an adjustment but as I recall, it's a pretty simple mechanism.
Does anyone know if its possible to remove the parking brake lever without removing the entire center console? Is there enough space to remove the mechanism by lifting up on the rear portion of the console?
Remove the brake lever handle, (It just pulls off) then remove the brake lever boot. I'm pretty sure the whole thing can be removed through the hole in the console.
Screenshot_2023-05-22 RealOEM com - Online BMW Parts Catalog.png
I’m guessing your brake lever pulled up 7-8 or more “clicks” of the ratchet pawl before it started to actuate the brakes?
When your parking brake shoes wear, and you do not adjust the cable adjusting nut to compensate for the wear, your parking brake lever can over-extend. This causes the ratchet pawl (controlled by the push-button on the end) to flip out of the linkage so it no longer catches on the ratchet teeth.
You need to disconnect the cables (console end) and play with the button and the pawl to get them correctly re-engaged. You can then reconnect the cables and adjust them properly.
-Donny
I believe 3 to 4 clicks up is spec.
Last edited by bluptgm3; 06-03-2023 at 05:45 PM.
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