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Thread: New Purchase

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2023
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    325xi

    New Purchase

    Hi all,

    I am looking at a 2006 325xi and 2011 328xi both around 70k. I have my financing and ready to go just need to pull the trigger on one. So torn or maybe I am overthinking this. But the wife is pushing for the 2011. LoL

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    North Potomac, MD
    Posts
    1,054
    My Cars
    2011 E90 328i
    If Chicago car, rust, rust, and more rust.

    Get Carfax, and do a pre-purchase inspection.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2023
    Location
    Vancouver, BC, Canada
    Posts
    29
    My Cars
    2019 BMW 440i xDrive Cab
    2011 is a whole 5 years younger, which is significant. And its a 328 instead of a 325. Ok, the 325 has done lesser miles per year for sure.
    As marvinstockman says about rust, the 2011 has 5 years worth of less rust, LOL. The Great Lakes region has the perfect weather for extensive rust.
    As he says, make sure you get an inspection, and let the results of that inspection guide you into the choice. All things being equal (from the inspection), I would go for the car that's 5 years newer.
    Last edited by F33B58M; 03-28-2023 at 12:52 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Rotterdam, NY
    Posts
    1,412
    My Cars
    2011 BMW 328xi Auto
    I believe the earlier N52 engines, before 2008 or 2009 had oil burning issues, because of the piston rings. Since then, BMW has refreshed the b30, which fixed the oil burning issue. I have the 2011 328xi with 108k and I love it. I recommend replacing the following parts every 80-100k as a preventative maintenance routine:
    serpentine belt, oil filter housing gasket, valve cover gasket, (power steering pulley with an aluminum pulley ($30.00) one time replacement), (coolant flange with an aluminum flange ($12.00)one time replacement) and coolant flush, Oil change, spark plugs, hold a couple of Delphi ignition coils for when the originals start failing one by one when you reach 100k, front lower control arms, rear upper control arms, transmission flush or add shudder fix, then do the flush at 100k (Not a complete flush), differential flushes and transfer case oil flush. At 70k, you should be fine for the next 20k miles, but those are the items you'll want to take care of once you reach 90-100k on the Odo. Once you replace those items, you don't have to worry about them until you're close to 200k. That engine will last up to 400k easy, as long as you maintain the vehicle at the proper intervals. Good luck and go with the 2011. LOL

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