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Thread: Al's Driver Project

  1. #1
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    Al's Driver Project

    I was about to create another thread with some more questions, but figured I should probably stop spamming the board with weekly threads... So I think from now on I'll just ask all my dumb questions in here

    I ordered a heater control panel a while ago because a PO thought it would be a good idea to riv nut the circuit board...I could have ordered the side panels too as they're still in production and relatively cheap, but I think they should work if they're just switched around as shown in the picture? Also, if they're just for lighting and don't affect anything else, I don't really care that much...
    IMG_1064.jpgIMG_1075.jpg

    I was assuming that the broken middle board was the reason my heater blower motor, panel lighting, and cigarette lighter didn't work. So the cigarette lighter works now, albeit barely.. Was hoping to plug a bluetooth fm adapter in there and use it for music, but the thing is extremely loose, it can barely hold my phone charger without wiggling loose. Also in fixing both speakers, I think I may have damaged the antenna or something, as my reception is realllly awful. But that's a project for another day...

    So the heater control and clock still don't work. I'm pretty sure I have everything plugged in right, but there are 2 sets of extra wires behind the dash that I'm thinking might have something to do with my problems... I checked the wiring diagram but after staring at it for an hour I couldn't really figure anything out... I think one set could be for an ashtray light, but I don't think my ashtray even has a light...? Not really sure, they both come from the wiring loom that connects to everything on the climate control panel.

    One pair is blue/white and brown, thats the one I think is the ashtray light. Other is yellow/black, blue/black, br. A little clarity into these wires or why my blower motor and clock aren't working would be, as always, greatly appreciated. Left pic is how I had everything wired, right are the two homeless sets of wires
    IMG_1069.jpgIMG_1071.jpg


    Happy St. Patty's

  2. #2
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    Still looking into this problem. I'm thinking it must have something to do with the blower motor or resistor...

    1) Is there an easy way to test/diagnose the blower motor and/or resistor someone could recommend, using a multimeter to check for power somewhere, etc.?

    Between reading forum posts and looking at the wiring diagram for my 78, I'm assuming it has to be an issue here. All my peripheral accessories work, it's just the blower motor that has no life, and I can't really screw up the wiring to the heater switch because of the housing... I can at least have some peace of mind knowing what the problem is, even if I never get around to fixing it..

    4a1b3f6854385ddf6dfa42cb9758dbee.png

  3. #3
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    I believe the blower resistor wires may become accessible if you can remove just the right side of the center console.. Replacing it, however, is another thing.

  4. #4
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    Running in to some more issues, have a couple questions

    1)Ordered 2 new heater controls for my pre-facelift CA car, and it looks like I'm missing some tabs to screw the controls in place. Any thoughts/ideas on what's going on here?
    1d575257e6e342a221167344637d4376.jpgIMG_1101.jpgI have the bottom tabs, but it looks like the top ones are missing for some reason.. When I get the controls in I'm just going to screw them in and see how things fit, but was wondering if anyone else here experienced anything similar. Doesn't look like those are replaceable without replacing the whole dash...

    Was so close to getting my radio sorted, but it looks like there's some internal issues with the radio. Took it to a repair shop to diagnose and they said it needed a 'tuning coil,' part is NLA, and they couldn't repair it. I saw people were recommending SW stereo out of New Jersey for these old Blaupunkt radios, but I've tried calling twice and no answer, voicemail is full. So I think I'll have to stuff in a modern radio, which I'm not really thrilled with. My main issue here is I have 2 pin DIN connectors for the speakers, and I don't really want to pull the old wires and re-route new speaker wires, the less I touch the better...

    2) Since I want to use the 2 pin DIN speaker wires, I'm thinking about either finding some sort of 2 pin DIN connector/adapter, or finding an old but working radio that would allow me to use my current wiring... What would be the best way to go about doing this? My current wiring uses 2 pin DIN for left and right speaker, and spade terminals for ground and power. Is it even possible/practical to use the wiring I have with a new radio?

  5. #5
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    Does anyone have a right heater control (64111364318 ) they would be willing to part with? I have one ordered, but just got word it wont be here until mid May..

    Also does anyone have any ideas on any radios that would fit as a direct replacement for the stock Blaupunkt one? I'm currently looking into replacement units on ebay, and there are lots of options, but most are either untested, no returns/for parts, and the majority are out of Europe. Ideally trying to find 2 channel units, and as cheap as possible.. Don't care what the model is, as long as it fits and work

  6. #6
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    Has anyone ever repaired their trunk lock or know anyone that's comfortable repairing one? Took the lock cylinder to a couple local locksmiths and no one was interested in even touching it

  7. #7
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    Bummer that you're not getting much response to your questions.. I'll take a go at it..

    Unfortunately you're probably right about the missing metal tabs on the vent controls. Perhaps you could make something with some thin sheet metal that attaches elsewhere?

    No clue about direct replacement radios, maybe you could buy some spade connectors that fit the speaker connectors and adapt it yourself? I have a cheap bluetooth radio I got off Amazon for $30 - the beauty of these items is they're less than half the length of the original radio and incredibly lightweight - which eases installation and stress on the brittle old console faceplate.

    I haven't seen anything about disassembling the trunk lock.. Is yours actually worn out, or is it that the old grease has solidified? If the latter, maybe a good long soak in acetone, then re-lubricate afterwards?

    On the thought that it might be similar to a 2002 trunk lock, I found this forum post on the subject, maybe it will help? https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/to...t-to-rekey-it/

    good luck!
    David

  8. #8
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    Yeah I figured I'd have to do something like that and it might be hard to secure it or get the fitment right, so I ended up frankensteining the controls together to get it to screw in and stay in place. Left side has functioning levers, right side just rerouted the cables next to the glove box so I can manually change them without the levers... I'm not doing a full blown resto here and it got a bit too frustrating... Things don't look perfect but they're well enough and at least operational.

    Ya I actually ordered an amazon radio and was about to just cut the connectors off the wires and rewire it but couldn't bring myself to do it yet... I ended up returning it but I should have at least checked the fitment, my biggest concern is that I don't want to cut the faceplate/console piece, and tbh I like the look of the old blaupunkt radio in there. Old radio sort of works on a station or two, but poorly.. Might end up doing something with a modern radio in the future, but for now I'm just going to leave it

    No idea what's wrong with it, it used to work when I first got the car. Now it's just stuck in the unlocked position, won't turn at all, even with a new key I had cut. I actually didn't realize they were still making those lock cylinders until I read that thread so thanks for that. I went ahead and ordered a NOS one at a discount off ebay, ~100$, comes with keys. A bit annoying I'll have 2 different keys for the car, but it's not the end of the world and just one less thing I have to worry about. Don't keep anything too valuable in the trunk, but I don't like leaving it unlocked either.. Maybe I'll get around to fixing it myself in the future, that thread mentions some split ring which might be why I couldn't ever get the thing apart in the first place.

    Appreciate the help

  9. #9
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    Back with some more questions...

    1) Finally found where my brake fluid was going, looks like my brake fluid pressure regulator was leaking. Was hoping to order a new part but looks like it doesn't exist, and neither do any used ones.. Does anyone have a spare they are willing to part with? The 4 line version, #34331116365. If I can't find one I guess I'll have to convert to the 2 line one, and I've never messed with brake lines so I'd rather not... Looks tedious

    2) Having some trouble with my indicators/wiper arm, they both fail in unison. Initially thought it was the fuse, then I investigated the hazard switch. Neither seemed to have any affect on it, but it looks like the ignition switch does... If I turn the key to the 1st position, then start the car, the indicators will work. But if I turn it to the 2nd position then start, or start the car without "priming" the indicators, they won't work... Very strange... Is this a bad ignition switch? Is it the hazard switch in disguise?

    3) A/C doesn't blow cold.. Now that it's starting to heat up I'm wondering if I could get away with refilling it? I can hear the compressor kick on and the fan works, so if it's just missing refrigerant, it might work...? I haven't read a lot of optimistic opinions about these cars and their a/c, so just wondering what your guys thoughts are.. I don't want to fill it up, have it not work, and then leak, especially inside the car...

  10. #10
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    Unfortunately the car broke down today and I had to get it towed home, AAA to the rescue.. But on the bright side my car couldn't have picked a better place to die. Owner of the house I broke down in front of came out and gave me a hand and let me borrow some tools, was very helpful and before I left we ended up diagnosing it as a bad coil.. So went down to auto zone and grabbed the highest resistance coil they had which was a 1.5 ohm pertronix. The problem is I'm running the hot spark electronic ignition conversion, as my car originally came with points, and they call for a 3 ohm+ coil and had me remove the inline resistor wire. So I put the points back in and slapped in the 1.5 coil just to see if it would pop off, and it does, but it won't even idle.

    So I have a 3 ohm coil on the way but it won't be here for a week. Is there a point gap I could set where I could at least get the car running? I don't really care about burning out the points, but I also don't want to damage anything else or burn up wires, etc...
    Last edited by alsimma95; 05-19-2023 at 07:38 PM.

  11. #11
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    Gapped the points out to .040, was the largest my feeler gauge went. It idled now but sounded very choppy, like it has an aggressive cam in it... Think I'm just going to wait on that coil...

  12. #12
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    Couldn't leave things alone.. Did some reading overnight and decided to set the gap back to .020 and try things again. Open the hood and notice wire to #1 was unplugged, must have a hard time running on 3 cylinders...

    Plugged it in, set point gap, and it had a harder time idling with the points vs. the electronic ignition. Once it got up to temp idled fine, albeit ~800 on tachometer where it idled at 1k with electronic. Don't want to mess with timing or carb, just gonna leave it as is for now. Car seemed peppier and noticed exhaust runs a lot hotter when I was checking for misfires out the back, but temp gauge read fine when I drove it around.

    Currently running with .020 point gap, plugs gapped to .030, 1.5 ohm coil no resistor wire/ballast resistor... If anyone recommends not running this please let me know, don't want to see her burned down or cause any damage...

  13. #13
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    It doesn't end with this car...

    Stalled out at a red light, thought I lost my clutch. Turns out clutch pedal loses pressure if I hold it too long. Also tried pumping it, the more I pump it the further down the bite point is. It's usually pretty far from the ground, and progressively gets closer to the floor as I pump or depress the pedal, and pressure returns if I don't press it for a couple seconds. No visible leaks at the slave or master. Luckily I made it back home.

    I'm suspecting an internal leak on the clutch master, I can hear it sort of lose pressure when I got down there and pumped it by hand. Unfortunately seems kind of a PITA to do, will have to remove some brake booster bits, and that's going to cause a whole mess of problems I'm sure. NOS ATE clutch master from ebay for $60, Febi slave from fcpeuro for $20. Fortunately parts are cheap, but it's getting annoying finding something every other week... Hopefully the NOS part holds up... Wish me luck whoever's still reading this thread

  14. #14
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    I too am surprised you're not getting more comments here. I'll weigh-in on a few points.

    Yes on the AC refrigerant, probably. Adding more refrigerant is the first step. Slow leaks are common. I've had cars that needed a can added once or twice a summer. Depending on your budget and goals, that can beat the cost/hassle of an AC repair. I'd do that after checking to make sure the fuse is good (and relay if it has one for the AC.) Often these systems need some pressure to turn on the clutch, which creates more pressure. So you might have to let it feed freon into the system for a while before the compressor clicks and stays on. And if it works for a while and leaks out again soon, I'd get a can that has the UV dye so you can spot where it's leaking.

    You're also right about the clutch. If the pedal won't hold pressure and there's no leaking or loss of fluid, then the problem is usually in the master cylinder. Yes, it can be messy, has to be bled, etc. But it's not an uncommon repair.

    And yes trying to use these old cars as frequent or daily drivers is a challenge. I'm facing that with my '02 e39. There are still a host of parts that haven't failed, yet. Sometimes I think they're just waiting for their turn. I might get another daily driver soon and make this a more occasional use/fun car.

    One more thought on the clutch. Does the fluid for it come from the brake fluid reservoir? How low did the fluid get when you had the leak? The feed line to the clutch master (in such a system) is part-way down, not at the bottom of the reservoir. If the fluid got low enough to let air into the clutch system, that could act like a bad master cylinder.

    Typically, when master cylinder seals start to fail, you can get effective slave action and disengagement right when you press the pedal. Then the pedal will lose pressure while you hold the pedal down, the slave will retract and the clutch will start to re-engage.
    Last edited by R Shaffner; 05-21-2023 at 12:24 PM.

  15. #15
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    Yeah that's what I was thinking with regards to the a/c, but I've never really messed with refrigerant or a/c lines so I'm still a little hesitant. I'll have to do some more research before I start putting anything in there but sounds like it might work.

    I was daily driving an 05 e46 that I kept pretty immaculate, but I randomly lost a cylinder on the highway.. Was busy with school until a few weeks ago. Going to be pulling the cams soon and hopefully finding a broken spring somewhere, otherwise I'm thinking it's a bent valve and the whole head is coming off... This e21 wasn't supposed to be a daily driver, but the situation arose out of necessity. And to be honest it's been fun driving it around for a bit now that I'm starting to get it sorted. Definitely not a permanent thing though

    Yes the brake and clutch fluid share a reservoir. So I was thinking about air getting into the system because my brake pressure regulator is leaking, but the fluid only ever got about halfway between min and max before I topped it up.

    The way you describe the seals failing seems to be exactly what it's like driving. At a red light I have to put it in gear and hit the gas immediately, and the clutch pretty much engages without me taking my foot off the pedal, and it's easier to shift while driving. I don't want to completely lose the clutch while driving so I'll be staying off the road, new master should be in soon.

    Appreciate the reply. I'm still relatively inexperienced and make a lot of dumb mistakes, so a little reassurance goes a long way for me.

  16. #16
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    The e21 a/c never had a low (or high) pressure cutoff switch. So, the compressor will run no mater what if the clutch has 12v applied. Put some gauges on the system, read the pressures and go from there. If you don’t know what I’m talking about, take it to an a/c shop.

  17. #17
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    Yeah I read a few forum threads and looks like it would cause more grief than it's worth for me. Maybe a future project.. Good thing the windows work.

    Also figured out the turn signal indicator/wiper problem seems to be the ignition switch. If I turn the key slightly back, as if I were shutting it off, things start working again. Just have to be careful not to shut the car off while driving... As long as they work, it's good enough for me
    Last edited by alsimma95; 05-22-2023 at 12:31 PM.

  18. #18
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    Well it's been an interesting few weeks

    The NOS clutch master I ordered failed as I was bleeding it, so I scrambled to source a new one before my lease ended on the 30th and I had to drive my car back home.. Ended up going with a metelli unit off eBay, and installation of that and a new Febi slave went well, clutch pedal feels much better. I think it was soft failing for a while and I had just thought that's how it was.

    Installed some rosettes for my door locks as the old ones had cracked and fallen off. There was a metal ring that was loose on the perimeter of the door lock and it seemed to have fallen out while driving, does anyone know what it was for? Couldn't find a part number, I think it might be part of the lock cylinder itself. The pic below is without the rosette on, there's a gap between the gray and silver part of the lock, that's where the ring used to be.
    IMG_1233.jpg

    Slapped on a new strut mount cap as one of my old ones was cracked.

    Replaced an old behr thermostat with a calorstat I had ordered but never installed for some preventative maintenance. FCP has calorstat therms for pretty cheap and lists them as OEM. I noticed the BMW logo scratched off so hopefully it's a good product and doesn't give me any issues.. Refilled cooling system with maybe 50/50 distilled water to pre-mixed, so 75/25 for the summer.

    Old fan had some wear from hitting the radiator as p/o had chicken wired the radiator to the front end. I replaced the chicken wire with the rubber mounts a while ago, but never got around to changing the fan until today. Radiator is thankfully not leaking. Not sure if it was really worth fixing but I think I've read it could damage the water pump, so figured I'd get it done.
    IMG_1233.jpg


    Had an interesting drive where I had some backfires and "combustion events" in my muffler, causing it to pop some holes in the rusty muffler...Thought I blew the engine, nearly broke my heart.... Patched it up with some aluminum cans, exhaust tape, and zip ties. Exhaust parts don't really exist for the early CA cars so I'll have to get some custom work done eventually. For now it'll have to do.

    Got an alignment done and toe was spot on but car pulls to the right and tech couldn't get the wheel straight lol. Camber is off on front left and rear right. Not too sure what's going on, but the tech couldn't get things sorted after a couple attempts so I just headed out of there. Maybe bent frame, sagging springs? Probably just going to mess with the tie rods a tiny bit, I'm using cheap tires anyway..

    I made a little contraption to fix my leaking brake pressure regulator since the 3 port one hasn't existed for 20 years... Ordered a Willwood proportioning valve that accepts m10 BF lines, and I ordered an oem T fitting for the rear brakes which has 3 m10 BF ports. Will be plumbing the line from the cylinder/FR and FL brakes to the T, the T to the willwood valve, and the outlet port on the prop valve will be going to the rear brakes. Haven't installed yet but that's next up on the to-do list.
    IMG_1226.jpg

  19. #19
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    Some more roadblocks. Was trying to hold off the prop valve since it was only a minor leak, but it started leaking copious amounts of fluid and the brakes started feeling more like a suggestion, so I decided to tackle it before I got into any trouble...

    For some reason I was under the impression that there were only 3 lines into the valve, and there were actually 4. I ended up plumbing the front left line and line from the master cylinder/front right together, and putting the line from the rears to the prop valve. So now I have an extra line that went from the master cylinder to the OEM prop valve, and I'm thinking about plugging it. I'm not really sure how the OEM prop valve or master cylinder work, so I'm not sure if this is the greatest idea... I could also plug the loose line into another T valve, and connect that to the T from both of my front brakes, but I'm not really sure if that's necessary or even a good idea. Could definitely use some advice on the safest way to go about this..
    IMG_1250.jpg
    The brass fitting is connected to the front left and leads to the prop valve. The fitting I'm thinking about plugging is under the reservoir in the picture, in between the line from the back of the cylinder and the blue line to the clutch master.

    On a brighter note, I installed a fuel pressure regulator and jetted my carb and the car is running great. P/O had installed a weber 32/36 but it was on stock jets, so it never really ran amazing. Ended up following CD's jetting prescription from over on the 2002 forums and the car runs much better. Not really sure if the fuel pressure regulator was necessary since I'm still only running off the in-tank fuel pump, but the regulator was fairly cheap and it was a simple install.
    IMG_1239.jpg
    Screwed the fpr into the empty bracket on the windshield cowl, just had to drill a hole on the bracket that came with the regulator. Removed the gauge once I confirmed it was at a steady 3 psi, don't need any unexpected fuel showers while driving..

  20. #20
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    So I had it together and brakes worked but it bothered me I plugged the master, so did some digging into it and looks like I had the pre-pressure valve for rear brakes plugged. Supposed to help with pedal travel and prevent leaks at the seals I guess. My lines may not look the best but I'm not that much of a hack, so after a little brainstorming I figured it would be pretty simple to just run a new line from the plugged port to the prop valve, and plug the tee fitting so it's just going to the front left brakes...

    So rear most 2 ports are going to front left and right disc brakes, and port closest to firewall, with pre-pressure valve, is going to prop valve and then rear drum brakes.. Seems pretty simple, not sure how I made it so complicated for myself.. Still need to bleed brakes and adjust prop valve, but things seem to be working still, and no leaks. I figured someone must have been reading this shaking their head so thought I'd post an update

  21. #21
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    Back with another barrage of questions... Just a bunch of little things that have been bugging me and I didn't want to keep bothering the forum by posting every day.

    1) I keep getting the red brake light and buzzing while driving, similar to when you first put your key in the ignition.. I'm starting to think this could just be caused by a faulty ignition switch, any thoughts?

    2) I'm definitely getting some sag in some of my springs, so I'm going to have to get new coils and shocks all the way around. Trying to go with the cheapest option I could find, I think I'm going to go with kyp shocks and h&r or vogtland springs. Anyone have any other recommendations

    3) I noticed a strange beeping coming from my front end, any idea what this is? It's by the horn/aux fan. https://streamable.com/fg9qj3

    4) I started using the sunroof a bit and can only get it to go back this much before it 'clicks' into place. Don't want to force it any further and break things, this isn't normal right? It's as far back as I can get it before it pops into place and sticks.

    IMG_1281.jpg

    5) I keep getting water in the corner of my engine bay, and I've changed both the hood cowl seal and the seal that sits under the windshield... I've sprayed compressed air in the drains so I think it's cleared, but maybe I'm missing something obvious?
    IMG_1290.jpgThis and more importantly the other side with the engine harness...... Really nervous about water getting into the wires and shorting them out so I keep towels there.

    6) I'm thinking about putting on a strut brace. ECS tuning has a Wiechers brace that's the cheapest I could find, but it's still a bit pricy.. Was wondering if anyone had an old brace they would be willing to part with, there aren't a lot of used ones on ebay and I can't justify spending $200 just for a strut brace... A 2002 brace wouldn't work, would it?

    7) Getting copious amounts of oil into cylinder 2, others are fine. compression all the way around is a bit low, 130-140 in all cylinders. Not great, but not the worst. Since cylinder 2 isn't really any worse off on compression than the others, would this mean it's a valve stem seal? I would think if it were the rings or valve guides it would show up as lower compression as well. Pretty strong amount of blowby, but the dipstick stays in so I'm just gonna let it ride

    That's all that I can think of for now. Any insights are, as always, greatly appreciated!

  22. #22
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    #1: could it be the seat belt buckle?

    #2: Personally, I would stay with stock springs. The lowered spring (what’s available) could cause tire rubbing issues.

    #3: hmmmm.

    #4: It’s not normal. You need to remove the sunroof crank and reset the “neutral” position. The service manual explains how, as I don’t recall but had to do it to my’82. Go ahead and crank past the resistance, it will be fine.

    #5: Me too, I think it’s normal and I don’t worry about it.

    #7: Have you done a leak down test? You’re probably right about valve stem seals….but, it could be a worn valve guide that is causing the seal to fail. Remove the valve cover and see if you can determine any valve stem lateral play at the effected cylinder.
    Last edited by DavidF; 07-15-2023 at 06:01 PM.

  23. #23
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    Hey thanks for the help, wasnt really expecting anyone to read my whole post nevermind answer everything haha

    1) Ya I've thought of that before, I typically don't wear my seat belt but I've put it on and drove around and it still goes off. I guess I could try unplugging the sensor completely, as I've went in there and reconnected it before and it didn't seem to do anything. I'm thinking it's got to be that sensor, the relay, or the ignition switch.

    2) Ya I would prefer to go with stock springs but I don't think I can get new springs for my car. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=31_0212 shows early springs being NLA, and my car had a/c so I guess those are even different ? Not really sure how a/c would affect the suspension, it can't be that heavy... I'll keep looking into it

    I'll get on the other things when I get a chance, appreciate the help

  24. #24
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    Yep, I’m in the market for a good set of used stock springs myself. My ‘80 323i has lowering springs and PO rolled the fenders. Not a fan.

    Oh, forgot to mention. The resistance you feel in the sunroof is all in the crank mechanism. You will be fine cranking past it.
    Last edited by DavidF; 07-15-2023 at 06:05 PM.

  25. #25
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    So I finally got around to fixing my sagging springs, the tires I got 3 months ago are already bald on the outside and I figured I'd bite the bullet and take care of it now. Ended up going with h&r lowering springs, 29531, they were the most reasonable in terms of price and not lowering the car too much from stock. Only put them on in the front because my rear tires are fine, even though the rear right fender is sitting about .5" higher than the rear left. Also didn't change the shocks because I'm dumb, lazy, and cheap Overall happy with the look, I don't really care about fitment too much, and the car is much more stable now, especially at high speeds and cornering. Glad I got around to it.
    IMG_6201.jpgBefore
    IMG_1335.jpgAfter

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  4. My E46 Touring DE/daily driver project
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  5. WTB: Daily Driver/project car
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