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Thread: Bad Starter?

  1. #1
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    Bad Starter?

    Hey guys,

    For the past few weeks I've been having trouble starting my E39.
    The car eventually starts but after several attempts.
    Does this indicate a bad starter?



    Thank you in advance,
    siny528i
    BMW CCA 434493

  2. #2
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    From the sound of it the starter is spinning slowly and not engaging the flywheel.
    Be sure your battery is fully charged and all the connections are tight before condemning the starter.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    From the sound of it the starter is spinning slowly and not engaging the flywheel.
    Be sure your battery is fully charged and all the connections are tight before condemning the starter.
    Thanks ross1,

    Battery is Ok. I already got new new Starter from FCPEuro.
    Is there a possibility that the Flywheel could be damaged?

    I'm guessing the best way to do this is by removing the Мanifold?

    Thanks again!
    BMW CCA 434493

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    From the sound of it the starter is spinning slowly and not engaging the flywheel.
    Be sure your battery is fully charged and all the connections are tight before condemning the starter.
    Gotcha! I will double check Battery and connections...
    BMW CCA 434493

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by siny528i View Post
    Thanks ross1,

    Battery is Ok. I already got new new Starter from FCPEuro.
    Is there a possibility that the Flywheel could be damaged?

    I'm guessing the best way to do this is by removing the Мanifold?

    Thanks again!
    It can be done from underneath but still no fun. Removing the manifold will make it a bunch easier but also opens another can-0-worms. If removing the intake it would be wise to then change all the hoses and pipes down there along with the oil vapor separator.
    There is an alignment dowel on the bellhousing that inserts into the nose of the starter that is known to get corroded so it is sometimes a bit of a struggle to pull the starter away from the bellhousing. A bit of penetrating oil and some wiggling help. All a bunch easier without the intake in the way.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  6. #6
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    I was having the same problem intermittently. removed and cleaned the corroded electrical contacts on the starter motor and it's been fine since. I even bought a brand new starter motor solenoid thinking it was the issue (which usually is if the motor is spinning freely) but it wasn't so I ended up wasting my money lol. maybe you have the same problem.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiesTorN View Post
    I was having the same problem intermittently. removed and cleaned the corroded electrical contacts on the starter motor and it's been fine since. I even bought a brand new starter motor solenoid thinking it was the issue (which usually is if the motor is spinning freely) but it wasn't so I ended up wasting my money lol. maybe you have the same problem.
    Yeah, most likely. Believe it or not, most of the time, with this (specifically) or any other car I own, it's a waste of money. I guess because of overkill as a result of lack of knowledge or desire of peace of mind...

    I hope you and your loved ones, my friend, are all Ok after all the horrible events that happened in your country...
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    There is an alignment dowel on the bellhousing that inserts into the nose of the starter that is known to get corroded so it is sometimes a bit of a struggle to pull the starter away from the bellhousing. A bit of penetrating oil and some wiggling help. All a bunch easier without the intake in the way.
    Hey guys,

    Here's a quick update...
    I removed everything and I am looking at the Starter now.

    Fighting to take it out but without any luck.
    Should I apply more force or is there a trick?

    Thank you in advance,
    siny528i
    BMW CCA 434493

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by siny528i View Post
    Hey guys,

    Here's a quick update...
    I removed everything and I am looking at the Starter now.

    Fighting to take it out but without any luck.
    Should I apply more force or is there a trick?

    Thank you in advance,
    siny528i
    Ok guys,

    The Old Starter is out! Its slightly longer than new one. I hope its Ok.

    I have two (2) questions now...

    1. Can I and (if I can) how can I clean Manifold?

    2. Can I use Cloth Wire Harness Tape for those wires left without insulation?

    Thanks again,
    siny528i
    BMW CCA 434493

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by siny528i View Post
    Ok guys,

    The Old Starter is out! Its slightly longer than new one. I hope its Ok.

    I have two (2) questions now...

    1. Can I and (if I can) how can I clean Manifold?

    2. Can I use Cloth Wire Harness Tape for those wires left without insulation?

    Thanks again,
    siny528i
    Use a scotchbrite or a green meanie like you scrub pans with. Nothing more abrasive of you can change the shape of the flange and end up with an exhaust leak. If the head is aluminum you can also use scotchbrite but go light on the pressure. You can also get scotchbrite in different grits on 1, 2, and 3 inch ROLOC's that can be used in a die grinder making cleanup a lot easier.

    For the wire.. use either electrical tape (as a last resort) as it has insulating value built in, or better use heat shrink. Heat shrink is cheap, available everywhere, and easy to use. You can even use it on several single wires and then use a bigger piece and put all the single wires in it.. makes for a clean repair. Most people use a butane lighter to shrink it.. I use a small heat gun. A flame can shrink the tubing unevenly leaving some really thin, some thick, and down the road it could be a problem.. and hot air is a lot less likely to catch fire to flammable liquids than flame..

    - - - Updated - - -

    These are the ROLOC heads I was talking about. But I've also started using these.. much better in several ways.. and also ROLOC which makes them convenient. THey come in more grit sizes too.
    A great ending is all you'll see..
    __________________________________________________ _____________


  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by SW530 View Post
    Use a scotchbrite or a green meanie like you scrub pans with. Nothing more abrasive of you can change the shape of the flange and end up with an exhaust leak. If the head is aluminum you can also use scotchbrite but go light on the pressure. You can also get scotchbrite in different grits on 1, 2, and 3 inch ROLOC's that can be used in a die grinder making cleanup a lot easier.

    For the wire.. use either electrical tape (as a last resort) as it has insulating value built in, or better use heat shrink. Heat shrink is cheap, available everywhere, and easy to use. You can even use it on several single wires and then use a bigger piece and put all the single wires in it.. makes for a clean repair. Most people use a butane lighter to shrink it.. I use a small heat gun. A flame can shrink the tubing unevenly leaving some really thin, some thick, and down the road it could be a problem.. and hot air is a lot less likely to catch fire to flammable liquids than flame..

    - - - Updated - - -

    These are the ROLOC heads I was talking about. But I've also started using these.. much better in several ways.. and also ROLOC which makes them convenient. THey come in more grit sizes too.
    Gotcha!
    What about cleaner like SimpleGreen? And then rinse it with water and dry?
    BMW CCA 434493

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by siny528i View Post
    Gotcha!
    What about cleaner like SimpleGreen? And then rinse it with water and dry?
    That will take grease and grime off. If you don't have any I'd skip it.
    A great ending is all you'll see..
    __________________________________________________ _____________


  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by SW530 View Post
    That will take grease and grime off. If you don't have any I'd skip it.
    It's 25 year car. I have plenty.
    So Simple Green is Ok?
    BMW CCA 434493

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by siny528i View Post
    It's 25 year car. I have plenty.
    So Simple Green is Ok?
    Yes , it’s ok .
    I usually have a bucket of hot water and Dawn soap with blue shop towels .
    The starter can be removed top side without removing the intake .

    Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
    Yes , it’s ok .
    I usually have a bucket of hot water and Dawn soap with blue shop towels .
    The starter can be removed top side without removing the intake .
    Thanks.It still was too tight so I removed it. It's not biggie...
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by siny528i View Post
    Thanks.It still was too tight so I removed it. It's not biggie...
    Reference this video :
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YHmmBFsBkI

    Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
    This guy clearly didn't have to deal with any corroded fasteners(1/4" ratchet to loosen those bolts) or having the starter's alignment peg stuck fast. OP's local is Long Island so guessing he had some crusty bits to deal with.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    This guy clearly didn't have to deal with any corroded fasteners(1/4" ratchet to loosen those bolts) or having the starter's alignment peg stuck fast. OP's local is Long Island so guessing he had some crusty bits to deal with.
    Yeah , I don't really agree with using the 1/4" socket .
    What IS needed is an E12 narrow style wrench or ratcheting wrench , at least that is what I had to use to fit in such a tight space .
    But , the starter is able to be pulled out between the firewall - TOP SIDE / out from the top of the engine .
    Last edited by Jason5driver; 03-24-2023 at 04:06 PM.

    Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
    Yeah , I don't really agree with using the 1/4" socket .
    What IS needed is an E12 narrow style wrench or ratcheting wrench , at least that is what I had to use to fit in such a tight space .
    But , the starter is able to be pulled out between the firewall .
    I used 3/8" E12 star socket, swivel adapter and 1/2" breaker bar to break them AND 10 mm 12 point ratcheting wrench to finish untighten.

    It was relatively easy. I would recommend doing this job from TOP.
    Do not remove manifold with brackets like one of YT videos suggested. Leave brackets on but just unscrew and remove manifold from them.

    Plus I had to change Oil Separator and two hoses connected to it.
    Last edited by siny528i; 03-22-2023 at 02:32 PM.
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  20. #20
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    Hey guys,

    Friend of mine who is a mechanic advised me to check the Fly Wheel for damage which I did not.
    He said that usually this can be done with a large screwdriver.

    What do you think about it?
    BMW CCA 434493

  21. #21
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    If the new starter engages every time and it isn't making bad noises don't worry about it, the flywheel (ring gear) is fine.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    If the new starter engages every time and it isn't making bad noises don't worry about it, the flywheel (ring gear) is fine.
    Right now there's only starter installed. I can remove it and check the Flywheel. Can it be done by screwdriver?
    BMW CCA 434493

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by siny528i View Post
    Right now there's only starter installed. I can remove it and check the Flywheel. Can it be done by screwdriver?
    What you are being cautioned about is wear to the teeth on ring gear(flywheel)the starter engages. If yours was clashing previously the teeth may be damaged.
    If so that's a transmission out project. Unless yours was grinding badly while attempting to engage or had been doing this for a LONG time I'd not worry much.
    Nothing you can do with a screwdriver except try to turn the engine over one tooth at a time, a good way to break a screwdriver.
    If you are concerned put a 22mm wrench on the crank bolt and roll it over that way, clockwise. With the starter removed you will see the gear teeth.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    What you are being cautioned about is wear to the teeth on ring gear(flywheel)the starter engages. If yours was clashing previously the teeth may be damaged.
    If so that's a transmission out project. Unless yours was grinding badly while attempting to engage or had been doing this for a LONG time I'd not worry much.
    Nothing you can do with a screwdriver except try to turn the engine over one tooth at a time, a good way to break a screwdriver.
    If you are concerned put a 22mm wrench on the crank bolt and roll it over that way, clockwise. With the starter removed you will see the gear teeth.
    So if I understood you right, I have to take the Belt off Crankshaft pulley and using 22MM wrench rotate it Clockwise while observing Flywheel? TIA
    Last edited by siny528i; 03-24-2023 at 04:32 PM.
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  25. #25
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    No need to remove any belts. Facing the front of the engine it turns clockwise.
    My $.02
    Doing this is a waste of time. If the flywheel gear is fubar the trans needs to come out. Easier to just install the starter (done, right?) and try it. Disable the fuel pump by removing the fuse or relay before cranking if you have dismantled the intake area so it won't try to run. Or easier yet just jump the solenoid.
    I just watched again the video clip attached to your original post. If this happened a few times you're fine. Test the starter if you like but i wouldn't worry about the flywheel.
    Last edited by ross1; 03-24-2023 at 05:41 PM.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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