Replacing E39 ABS Pump Control Module - Which One?

[LuckyBill]

I've searched & searched and found inconstant information.

On my 2003 530iA M-Sport I'm getting the lights trifecta for my ABS and DSC. I checked the output of the speed sensors using my Autophix 7910 Live Data feature and they appear to be working properly - however, when the engine is hot and I'm going faster than 20mph all the sensors output show "n/a". I can clear the lights if I disconnect & reconnect the large ABS connector, but as soon as the engine gets hot the lights come on. This and other tests suggest my ABS pump control module is heat damaged so I need a refurbished unit.

I can't find good info on what I need. Some say I need the same module, others say it is all the same module.
What's odd is PASoft it shows the manufacturing date for most of my modules to be in 2003 (2007 for the IKE) but the ABS module shows June 2001, which suggests it's the original unit which may also be obsolete.

Realoem says for my car, the p/n is 34522285051
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...&q=34522285051

Can anyone tell me if 34522285051 is the correct p/n for my car? Also can I (do I need to) code it using PASoft? Thanks.

[Chedley]

First, before concluding that the ABS control module is damaged, what is/are the ABS error codes you get when you scan the ABS module ?

From your description of the problem above, I would think that the speed sensors are bad, or rather go bad when the engine heats up. Which may indicate bad or frail sensor connectors: a pretty common problem on older cars.

Again, I'd start by scanning the ABS module for error codes.

[LuckyBill]

Thanks @Chedley

The ABS error code I get from PASoft is "51/FE - Pressure Sensor, open circuit". That, along with the speed sensor codes not registering, suggests to me that the ABS module is not seeing the input signals, possibly because of a bad internal circuit or bad connections at the input buffer IC.

I don't doubt bad connectors at the speed sensors, but it's unlikely that they would all go bad at exactly the same time.

[Chedley]

So, ABS error code 51 indicates a faulty rear left inlet valve . So I would say it is either the ABS pump rear left, or most likely the ABS pressure sensor, as PASoft indicates.

The ABS pressure sensor can be easily replaced, without removing the ABS pump or module. : You unscrew it with a 22 mm socket wrench, and you screw in the replacement. It may be an expensive part, so you may want to buy any used or junkyard ABS, and strip it of its pressure sensor.
It is BMW part # 34511165467.

[LuckyBill]

So, ABS error code 51 indicates a faulty rear left inlet valve . So I would say it is either the ABS pump rear left, or most likely the ABS pressure sensor, as PASoft indicates.

The ABS pressure sensor can be easily replaced, without removing the ABS pump or module. : You unscrew it with a 22 mm socket wrench, and you screw in the replacement. It may be an expensive part, so you may want to buy any used or junkyard ABS, and strip it of its pressure sensor.
It is BMW part # 34511165467.

Thank you, I'll try that first. Is that sensor exposed to brake fluid? Do I need to bleed the brakes after replacing?

[Chedley]

No, not really...When mine barfed up, I replaced it and drove on.

Though it never hurts to bleed the ABS and refresh the brakes fluid if that has not been done for awhile, as a regular maintenance thing.

[LuckyBill]

I'm going to replace that sensor and see what happens. Thanks for your help!

EDIT: Replacing that sensor requires bleeding the front brakes, as removing that sensor leaks brake fluid.
I'm skeptical that I can get a disconnect from the pressure sensor and all four wheel sensors. I think it's either the connector or the module. But I'm going to test the pressure sensor in the morning - the test is clear the code, start the car and show the live brake pressure on my Autophix 7910. Hit the sensor with a wrench a few times & see if the brake pressure changes, if it does, the sensor is bad. If it isn't, its probably the connector or the module.

[Chedley]

May be..
When I replaced my ABS pressure sensor, I did not bleed anything. I just unscrewed the old sensor, installed the new -used- sensor and drove on. And the error code and ABS/DSC error lights went away...

[LuckyBill]

Well, I want this fixed, so I bought both the module and the ABS pressure sensor.
When you replaced the sensor, did you see any brake fluid leak out?

[Chedley]

No..the car was stone cold in the morning.

[Ashleyroachclip]

Does not the module need to be coded to the car ?
Module masters has a very good reputaion and warranty, with fast turn around .
Send the. Your module , they repair it , send it back.
No coding needed .

[LuckyBill]

Does not the module need to be coded to the car ?
Module masters has a very good reputaion and warranty, with fast turn around .
Send the. Your module , they repair it , send it back.
No coding needed .

Actually, my plan is if replacing the pressure sensor doesn't fix the problem, I'm going to send my module to Module Masters. In the meantime I'll put the new module on the car and attempt to code that. Best case, I'll have my original module back as a backup, worst case if I can't code the new module I'll put the original module back in.

[Toby B]

Working with the Bosch modules recently, I have found that if you get the same number*,
they will work without errors.

Correctly? Well, as far as I can tell: ABS and DSC behave as they should, and there are no
active error codes. The vehicle information doesn't seem to matter as much in the ABS module.

As far as repair- the high current devices can be replaced, but the majority of the
Bosch unit is a large, potted collection of integrated circuit dies that are completely unserviceable.

t
*the number on the bottom of the unit, below the connector. Mine is 0 265 950 002 on an 11-00 wagon.

[LuckyBill]

Working with the Bosch modules recently, I have found that if you get the same number*,
they will work without errors.

Correctly? Well, as far as I can tell: ABS and DSC behave as they should, and there are no
active error codes. The vehicle information doesn't seem to matter as much in the ABS module.

As far as repair- the high current devices can be replaced, but the majority of the
Bosch unit is a large, potted collection of integrated circuit dies that are completely unserviceable.

t
*the number on the bottom of the unit, below the connector. Mine is 0 265 950 002 on an 11-00 wagon.

0 265 950 002 is the same p/n on the replacement unit I got in the mail yesterday. It smells of some solvent so I'm waiting for it to completely evaporate before installing.
Did you check with PASoft to see if the HW and SW numbers on the new unit match the unit you replaced?

[Chedley]

Do not worry about those HW and SW numbers -- they are manufacturer's version numbers.
If your replacement ABS module has the same part # as the original, then it is plug-and-play. No coding needed.
Not that it is hard to do -- if you have INPA / NCSExpert and if you are so interested in it.

[LuckyBill]

Well, when I replaced my LCM I had to use PASoft to code the same HW and SW numbers into the new LCM.

[Chedley]

Not for ABS

[LuckyBill]

Not for ABS

Yes for ABS.

I replaced the ABS/DSC unit with the same p/n, same HW SW and DSC 5.7. Result: I got all the lights and the CEL. When I ran the code for the ABS module the first error code was "Coding Error". So all the YouTube videos are right and you are very wrong.

I also saw that you MUST bleed the front brakes of the ABS pressure sensor is replaced, because air WILL be introduced into the system. so I'm going to bleed the brakes if I replace that pressure sensor so that's wrong info in this thread, too.

[LuckyBill]

Followup: With the new module I was getting the trifecta dashboard lights, a bunch of ABS codes, and my ABS & DSC did not work. Before I sent my original ABS/DSC module to Module Masters, I put it back in the car, booted up PASoft, selected the ABS module and selected Read Code, which downloaded a 1K hex file to my laptop.

I then put the new ABS/DSC module back in, restarted PASoft, selected the ABS module. Did a Read Code to save the existing programming, then selected Write Code and loaded the 1K hex file from my original module into the new one. Key off, removed ABS connector, connected it back after ten minutes. Started the car. I still get all the trifecta lights but now only two codes - Coding Error and Undervoltage Error. Took the car out for a test drive and despite the lights being on the ABS works now! Not sure if the DSC works.

My original module is on its way to Module Masters, in the meantime I'm going to code the new ABS/DSC module with NCS Expert.

[Chedley]

After replacing/coding the ABS module, you may want to turn off or reset the trifecta error lights (ABS/DSC/Brakes) before testing.
If you have INPA installed, you can use Tool32's test_lenkwinkel job to do it - job that recalibrates the SAS and turn off the error lights.
And yes, bleeding the ABS lines, then the brakes lines is recommended or necessary after replacing anything on the ABS or the brakes. Although many can get away without doing it. I did.

[LuckyBill]

Got my rebuilt ABS/DSC module back from Module Masters. They noted that the "line sensor driver section" was damaged and was repaired, and repaired "damage to power return circuit". Cleared all codes.
Happy to report that the trifecta lights are off and after a 20 mile drive the ABS/DSC seems to be functioning normally!

[E0339]

Congrats!