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Thread: Heater blows hot when idle and without filter

  1. #1
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    Heater blows hot when idle and without filter

    I have the weirdest thing I have ever seen.
    My E46 blows hot air pretty well when idle and cabin filter is removed.
    If there is cabin filter installed, it blows cold,however, hot air turns cold when I move.

    It would be easier to say, my heater temperature is like dependent on IAT :/
    I have no idea what's wrong with it.
    If I stay, it takes a few minutes to get warm and if I move, it takes 30 seconds and starts getting cold.

    I have replaced Heater Control Valve, I bled cooling system several times but no luck :/

    Have you ever seen that crazy behavior of the heater?


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  2. #2
    dworthy's Avatar
    dworthy is offline Wagon meister :) BMW Tech Expert
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    So I would pull codes from the HVAC module to see what's not happy.

    Second you can be looking at a bad water pump on top of things, but the temp won't change as the needle is buffered.
    Darin
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  3. #3
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    BMW E46 330Ci ZHP

    Heater blows hot when idle and without filter

    Quote Originally Posted by dworthy View Post
    So I would pull codes from the HVAC module to see what's not happy.

    Second you can be looking at a bad water pump on top of things, but the temp won't change as the needle is buffered.
    It has error about Water Valve.
    It says short circuit against U-Batt.
    I have changed Water Valve btw.

    If water pump is broken, how can car keep ideal temps for all time?
    Temperature of coolant is absolutely stable and between normal range


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    Last edited by Kupa565; 01-28-2023 at 01:18 AM.

  4. #4
    dworthy's Avatar
    dworthy is offline Wagon meister :) BMW Tech Expert
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    If you purchased a cheap knock-off, there's a good chance it bad too. I think VDO was the provider to BMW for that part.

    Your temp gauge is buffered for something like 30 degrees C. so keep that in mind here. If you didn't know, ever since the E-36, BMW has "buffered" the temp gauge as people would come in when it started to get to the 3/4 line and complain that it was overheating. Shoot in the E-9x they took it out completely.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    BMW E46 330Ci ZHP
    Quote Originally Posted by dworthy View Post
    If you purchased a cheap knock-off, there's a good chance it bad too. I think VDO was the provider to BMW for that part.

    Your temp gauge is buffered for something like 30 degrees C. so keep that in mind here. If you didn't know, ever since the E-36, BMW has "buffered" the temp gauge as people would come in when it started to get to the 3/4 line and complain that it was overheating. Shoot in the E-9x they took it out completely.
    I didn't mean temp gauge, I meant OBD coolant temperature reading in real time.

    How can I test Water Valve?


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  6. #6
    dworthy's Avatar
    dworthy is offline Wagon meister :) BMW Tech Expert
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    16 220i 05 325it 05 M3
    Two way to test the water valve, one is to check for power at the plug/connector into the heater valve. Should be battery voltage with the heat set to high. Also a valve will fail in the open position, but you are not getting full heat.

    Second way is to take a heat gun and check both hoses for temperature. The ones I am talking about goes to the heater core, the return should ride along the frame rail, and the hot side is above it at the heater valve. If you rev it up and both hoses become close to the same, then I would say you need to flush the heater core. If the temp drops, then the valve is the problem, and unplug it to see if it gets hotter.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

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