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Thread: CSB noisy?

  1. #1
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    CSB noisy?

    I just put a LW flywheel in my 99 M54 Zcoupe The csb was banging in 1st and 2nd so I checked the preload and pushed it forward but still getting some noise? it was OK before the new clutch/flywheel install ?so what happened?! The rubber mounting seems fine.

  2. #2
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    Did the trans mounts get tightened? Did you hang the engine enough to maybe break an old engine mount?

    Even though it may feel like the CSB, you had a lot of stuff loose installing that flywheel.

    Chris Powell
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    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    Did the trans mounts get tightened? Did you hang the engine enough to maybe break an old engine mount?

    Even though it may feel like the CSB, you had a lot of stuff loose installing that flywheel.
    The noise is definitely in the middle or back gonna look at the diff welds today?I did have the csb hanging at an awful angle for a week or so maybe I stressed it out!?

  4. #4
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    Nah, I routinely tie driveshaft ALL THE WAY to the lift arm when working on clutches & stuff; that didn't hurt the CSB

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by 325bob View Post
    The csb was banging in 1st and 2nd so I checked the preload and pushed it forward but still getting some noise?
    Was it okay before hand, or was it banging in 1st and 2nd? Because those are mutually exclusive. It sounds to me like the CSB was bad before

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by BimmerBreaker View Post
    Was it okay before hand, or was it banging in 1st and 2nd? Because those are mutually exclusive. It sounds to me like the CSB was bad before
    I found the 2 PITA diff bolts were gone!lol but the mystery is why it was silent with the stock dual mass flywheel? apparently its function will mask some serious drivetrain shortcomings?!Also dicovered that the non M coupe trunk doesn't allow access for cutting holes to easily torque those PITA bolts a method I used on my M coupe with great success..

  7. #7
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    Why are you cutting anything to access the diff bolts? They can be tightened from below with the right tools

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by BimmerBreaker View Post
    Why are you cutting anything to access the diff bolts? They can be tightened from below with the right tools
    the 2 top ones are really tough had to make them shorter just to clear the crossmember and then use a pry bar to torque the 19mm box wrench and they still came out! These 2 went in with loctite and lock washers!

  9. #9
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    If it's something you'll be servicing often (or ever again) I suggest buying these...

    https://www.iemotorsport.com/product...-z3-e36-318ti/

    I don't use all four in the set, I just install two studs at the rearmost locations, to make them easier to access and stock bolts in the front two spots. You can fish the bolts into place with the differential installed, but it is a little difficult (though, not enough to justify cutting holes in the trunkfloor imo!). With stock subframe bushings you can just use a pry bar to create enough room to slide them in. It's even easier though to loosen the front bolts to lower the diff to put the rear bolts into position...

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BimmerBreaker View Post
    If it's something you'll be servicing often (or ever again) I suggest buying these...

    https://www.iemotorsport.com/product...-z3-e36-318ti/

    I don't use all four in the set, I just install two studs at the rearmost locations, to make them easier to access and stock bolts in the front two spots. You can fish the bolts into place with the differential installed, but it is a little difficult (though, not enough to justify cutting holes in the trunkfloor imo!). With stock subframe bushings you can just use a pry bar to create enough room to slide them in. It's even easier though to loosen the front bolts to lower the diff to put the rear bolts into position...
    That would be great I have a 3.70 that might go in this AX season Apparently the M coupe has a different trunk floor with an easily found area to drill the holes for a socket tightening of these bolts the non M 's battery is in a different spot and those bolts aren't where they were on my "M" model 's trunk floor. they made a 10 second impact gun job out of a 15 minutes crawl under the car.with wrenches
    .

  11. #11
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    Hmmm, 15 minutes under the car, or drill 2 big holes in the trunk floor of an M-car. I'm quite sure I'd have made the other choice.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    Hmmm, 15 minutes under the car, or drill 2 big holes in the trunk floor of an M-car. I'm quite sure I'd have made the other choice.
    Even worse, now I have a hole in my non M floor that doesn't access anything,lol.I'm thinking the rear wiper delete plug might fill it nicely.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    Hmmm, 15 minutes under the car, or drill 2 big holes in the trunk floor of an M-car. I'm quite sure I'd have made the other choice.
    Yes, easy choice. I'll get the hole drill!

    Oh wait, thats not what you meant? ...

  14. #14
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    Different strokes.... my customers get upset if I leave fingerprints.....

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

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