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Thread: Cannot find Crank Position Sensor....

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    Cannot find Crank Position Sensor....

    Hi guys, I have a 1987 325e and I cannot seem to find at all the Crank Position Sensor...

    I have read everything possible and looked everywhere and I simply cannot see one at all...

    I have no idea what is going on really...

    Some help would be greatly appreciated....

    By the way this car hasnt started in 14 years its been just sitting at someones place. I have come to ressurect it and with a no starting issue im at this step of finding and replacing this part but I seriously do not seem to find it...

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    it's in the bell housing. be careful not to mix it up with the reference sensor. the two are close and it happens all the time.







    sometimes the pin on the flywheel comes off and must be replaced.
    Last edited by 82eye; 01-15-2023 at 08:10 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jcrunk View Post

    By the way this car hasnt started in 14 years its been just sitting at someones place. I have come to ressurect it and with a no starting issue im at this step of finding and replacing this part but I seriously do not seem to find it...

    you probably want to replace the timing belt before trying to start. broken belt on a start up from a long time sitting would result in the need to rebuild the engine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 82eye View Post
    it's in the bell housing. be careful not to mix it up with the reference sensor. the two are close and it happens all the time.







    sometimes the pin on the flywheel comes off and must be replaced.

    Thankyou for replying man, really appreciate it...
    I do not see either of those sensors... I only see what apparently is a Crank Position Sensor which is named a Position Transmitter according to realoem spec...

    It appears almost the same as a crank position sensor however it has no plugs on the end it is actually wired to the Diagnostic plug....

    I have a feeling this is what is wrong however to change that what am I going to do?

    I can buy the exact part its https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-7...uine-bmw-part/

    just very lost

    - - - Updated - - -

    The timing belt is actually great no problem at all with it. However I should replace it?
    I have already tried to start the engine I get a crank but nothing else... Hence why im going through all my what I believe it is to be the problem checklist lol

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    That's not it, and you don't need it as it was only used with the diagnostic plug. The 2 sensors will be found on the driver's side in the bell housing of the transmission. The 325i has the CPS up front on the crank damper, while the ETA kept theirs in the back.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jcrunk View Post
    Thankyou for replying man, really appreciate it...
    I do not see either of those sensors...

    you won't find them from above the car. look underneath, you'll have to trace the wires to the bell housing. they are not hard to find.

    here is a pic of the tang on the flywheel through the hole for the reference sensor. you can see the cps above it.



    - - - Updated - - -

    find the starter, the sensors will be behind it on the same side.


    Quote Originally Posted by Jcrunk View Post
    The timing belt is actually great no problem at all with it. However I should replace it?
    I have already tried to start the engine I get a crank but nothing else... Hence why im going through all my what I believe it is to be the problem checklist lol

    it's not uncommon for belts to break on trying a start up after a long sit. they age out over five yrs under tension even if not moving. it results in a busted head if lucky. more work if not.
    Last edited by 82eye; 01-15-2023 at 02:08 PM.

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    been a while since i drove an e, but the sensors should be at the same position as the # 21 blind plug in this diagram




    both the cps and reference sensor have to be working for the car to start and run. the sensors are interchangeable, but you may need two. they have a tendency to fail together or close to it. should be the same part number for both.
    Last edited by 82eye; 01-15-2023 at 02:59 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dworthy View Post
    The 2 sensors will be found on the driver's side in the bell housing of the transmission. The 325i has the CPS up front on the crank damper, while the ETA kept theirs in the back.
    he's in australia so they'll be on the passenger side lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by 82eye View Post
    he's in australia so they'll be on the passenger side lol
    Blimey! Should just stick with left/right side of the car lol
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by dworthy View Post
    Blimey! Should just stick with left/right side of the car lol
    haha , you guys were right that sensor was part of that plug thing

    I need to look deeper...

    it might not even be that... I have a fuel pump not working at all but now testing the Main Relay and Fuel Pump Relay... The Fuel Pump Relay looks clean but the Mains and the Other look very bad...
    I think it could even just be them its not anything else....

    Im trying to find a Mains and Fuel Pump Relay but cannot seem to find at all here in Australia just a Fuel Pump Relay from US from the usual...

    any help?

    Cheers!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 82eye View Post
    you probably want to replace the timing belt before trying to start. broken belt on a start up from a long time sitting would result in the need to rebuild the engine.
    Might also be worth checking whether a broken timing belt has been the reason for putting the car aside for 14 years.
    Just open the oil filler cap, and look through it for movement while cranking.
    ^ true story



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    Quote Originally Posted by 323i E30 View Post
    Might also be worth checking whether a broken timing belt has been the reason for putting the car aside for 14 years.
    Just open the oil filler cap, and look through it for movement while cranking.
    Yeh its moving and the belts are good man, it's my car. I had just left it sitting at my parents house for 14 years, now I have come back to ressurect it...

    Any Relay should be good yeh? If the specs match by the pins and the load and all it should be fine yes?

    - - - Updated - - -



    - - - Updated - - -

    No belts are bad... all are continental, all are tight all have teeth perfect...
    Last edited by Jcrunk; 01-17-2023 at 09:19 AM. Reason: double up

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jcrunk View Post

    Any Relay should be good yeh? If the specs match by the pins and the load and all it should be fine yes?
    a few folk have used a generic replacement with some luck. others can't make it work at all. i dunno why the difference. i've bought non brand relays for other cars before just by matching the specs, but never on a bmw.

    - - - Updated - - -



    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Jcrunk View Post
    No belts are bad... all are continental, all are tight all have teeth perfect...
    timing belts often look great but snap under load. other times they show fraying or other stresses. there's a reason bmw has both a time limit and a mileage limit on them. go with a gates blue for a little extra insurance. conti has fallen a bit since moving mostly to offshore mfgr. get a german one if you can.

    china has been playing silly buggers with conti for the last couple yrs as well, refusing to supply conti belts to taiwan or lithuania. chinese rubber is notoriously awful, but i don't think it has gotten to the belts yet.
    Last edited by 82eye; 01-17-2023 at 06:35 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 82eye View Post
    a few folk have used a generic replacement with some luck. others can't make it work at all. i dunno why the difference. i've bought non brand relays for other cars before just by matching the specs, but never on a bmw.

    - - - Updated - - -



    - - - Updated - - -



    timing belts often look great but snap under load. other times they show fraying or other stresses. there's a reason bmw has both a time limit and a mileage limit on them. go with a gates blue for a little extra insurance. conti has fallen a bit since moving mostly to offshore mfgr. get a german one if you can.

    china has been playing silly buggers with conti for the last couple yrs as well, refusing to supply conti belts to taiwan or lithuania. chinese rubber is notoriously awful, but i don't think it has gotten to the belts yet.
    Gates hey? They are an Australian brand, very easy to obtain here... I thought they would be using cheap chinese rubber? Maybe they are made here in Australia however not sure if you are aware of how we operate down here, we are basically Chinas baby, nothing is really Aussie made here anymore and if so its just china made but labeled here...

    I will look into that though about the Gates because Gates is a very very old reputable Australian brand...

    I was successful in figuring out which relay is which, however the pin difference is what people need to watch out for, otherwise I think any relay can basically be used if the schems are the right one...

    This 325e seems to run a 4 pin Mains then 5 pin Fuel Pump and 4 Pin Oxygen.... Interesting because every other model I have seen online is totally different... The Mains relay I got today was not switched right with the 30 and 86 pin and that's what I think people stuff up when looking to buy non OEM parts and that... I am getting some BOSCH equivelant tomorrow and hopefully should see something different happen... The other brand I can get here in AUS is NARVA which actually seem pretty good indeed... The only reason im grabbing the BOSCH is I cannot get the Mains Relays from NARVA right now, have to wait 3-5 days and I don't have that time right now .....

    This is a very very strange car... I believe I even have a Motronic 1.1 in this not a 1.0....

    I even belive personally the ECU is just dead over 14 years of weather and crazy Australian conditions...

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    I would check to see if you can get a Gates racing timing belt, T131RB, as it is of modern construction and on Amazon US is made in US. Also it is blue.

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    Quote Originally Posted by aaverhulst View Post
    I would check to see if you can get a Gates racing timing belt, T131RB, as it is of modern construction and on Amazon US is made in US. Also it is blue.
    Thanks man those belts look really nice too... I will see what I can do....

    Have you had an 325e yourself?
    Last edited by Jcrunk; 01-21-2023 at 11:17 AM.

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    I have an 89 325ic.

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    Just an update guys, I have gotten 2 new Main Relays what I believe meets the specs... I also bought a "new" ECU which I personally believe is the main problem.... I tested all the relays, all spark but I havnt bothered with the jumper tests proper on all over... I recon it was the ECU, it looks dead just by going by the outer screws.... I heard of a solution where taking the old ECU cable out and back in again could work... Im trying that today and will spray both with a contact clean and try that... I rwcon this thing is just fried from 14 years of hard Australian weather the EPROMS have just frozzled out and have nothing left so you basically get nothing....

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    I want to ask something too though... The Fuse Box has my Fuel Pump Fuse on a 15a Fuse not a 7.5a... The weird thing is it seems like its original too so it might be the type of fuse it needs???
    The reason im asking is because everything I read says 7.5a but something to admire is the Fuel Pump relay being a 5 pin relay and the Mains/DME and O2 being 4 Pins...
    my 325e is 3/87... I recon there is some weird change is something... what do you guys think and is anyone out there able to possibly understand my crazy mess?
    Many thanks in all!

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    maybe get a bentley manual. sounds like you're turned around and/or the car is a complete mess.
    every e30 on earth has the same 7.5a fuel pump fuse.


    here's a diagram link with the fuses and relays
    Last edited by 82eye; 01-29-2023 at 01:00 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 82eye View Post
    maybe get a bentley manual. sounds like you're turned around and/or the car is a complete mess.
    every e30 on earth has the same 7.5a fuel pump fuse.


    here's a diagram link with the fuses and relays
    I read the Bentley manual, not very good really... Glad I never purchased it...

    Yeh something just isn't making sense... Although nothing I am aware of has been changed so much.... Everything seriously seems stock, the only fuses which dont look stock are some on the bottom row and its just a couple... Ive looked at all the fuses all seem intact...

    So I had my ECU arrive the other day and I put it in just before and nothing... No Check Engine light comes up either which I believe is an indication that the DME is powered up or am I wrong??

    E30nostart.png

    Im going by that I found online...

    Something too I noticed with putting these 2 new relays in I dont hear a click like I did before with the stock ones... So tomorrow ill put back in the old ones and see if maybe something happens with that...
    They look fried though these relays but I could be totally wrong...

    Thanks for the Diagram too, I actually had one in the Original Manual I have..I have no idea whats going on with the fuse box. but yeh that's good ill print one out to keep in the glovebox...
    Last edited by Jcrunk; 01-29-2023 at 09:00 AM. Reason: Wanted to add this...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jcrunk View Post
    I read the Bentley manual, not very good really... Glad I never purchased it...

    Yeh something just isn't making sense... Although nothing I am aware of has been changed so much.... Everything seriously seems stock, the only fuses which dont look stock are some on the bottom row and its just a couple... Ive looked at all the fuses all seem intact...

    So I had my ECU arrive the other day and I put it in just before and nothing... No Check Engine light comes up either which I believe is an indication that the DME is powered up or am I wrong??

    E30nostart.png

    Im going by that I found online...

    Something too I noticed with putting these 2 new relays in I dont hear a click like I did before with the stock ones... So tomorrow ill put back in the old ones and see if maybe something happens with that...
    They look fried though these relays but I could be totally wrong...

    Thanks for the Diagram too, I actually had one in the Original Manual I have..I have no idea whats going on with the fuse box. but yeh that's good ill print one out to keep in the glovebox...

    have tried the main relay ?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82eye View Post
    every e30 on earth has the same 7.5a fuel pump fuse.


    here's a diagram link with the fuses and relays
    Who told you that?

    According to my BMW Manual it is infact a 15a Fuse...

    take a look, crazy! so original fuse still in the fuse box lol... most of the fuses are the originals but ive tested every one and they are ok... a couple were the wrong ones totally but this BMW Manual Says Fuse 11 Fuel Pump Fuse is infact a 15A...

    I have also seen quite a few pictures of peoples fuse boxes online and they were also running a 15a in the Fuel Pump....

    Im not trying to start an argument at all but are your willing to accept you may infact be wrong? As might everyone else who runs with this 7.5A everywhere on earth! My Mains/DME is also a 4pin, the Fuel Pump is a 5pin... Everyone says that's wrong but says who? Im looking at what Ive got infront of me and it's not what some of you are saying online... not just here but other places...

    I am starting to think that you guys are all switched on with your US spec cars where im dealing with a Euro spec and you are speaking a different language to me...

    That's all I can see out of this...IMG20230221014413.jpg
    Last edited by Jcrunk; 02-20-2023 at 09:52 AM. Reason: needed to attach the picture....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jcrunk View Post
    Who told you that?

    According to my BMW Manual it is infact a 15a Fuse...

    take a look, crazy! so original fuse still in the fuse box lol... most of the fuses are the originals but ive tested every one and they are ok... a couple were the wrong ones totally but this BMW Manual Says Fuse 11 Fuel Pump Fuse is infact a 15A...

    I have also seen quite a few pictures of peoples fuse boxes online and they were also running a 15a in the Fuel Pump....

    Im not trying to start an argument at all but are your willing to accept you may infact be wrong? As might everyone else who runs with this 7.5A everywhere on earth! My Mains/DME is also a 4pin, the Fuel Pump is a 5pin... Everyone says that's wrong but says who? Im looking at what Ive got infront of me and it's not what some of you are saying online... not just here but other places...

    I am starting to think that you guys are all switched on with your US spec cars where im dealing with a Euro spec and you are speaking a different language to me...

    That's all I can see out of this...IMG20230221014413.jpg
    i dunno wth is going on ... i have a 7.5 in the number 11 position in the fuse box. i'm gonna double check that now though.

    edit : yeah, maybe it's the wrong fuse in there. it shouldn't work with a 7.5. it must have been replaced.

    more edit : have confirmed the 7.5A is correct from several other sources. what year is yours, there may be a cutoff. i'm thinking it's when the e30 went to a single pump.

    yep, your car has both an internal and external pump, so a higher rated fuse. mine only has the in-tank pump. there's something else to check if you're not getting fuel, both pumps on a dual pump car need to be working. always thought the dual pump cars used the same fuse. makes sense they would be double the amp.
    Last edited by 82eye; 02-20-2023 at 12:11 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 82eye View Post
    i dunno wth is going on ... i have a 7.5 in the number 11 position in the fuse box. i'm gonna double check that now though.

    edit : yeah, maybe it's the wrong fuse in there. it shouldn't work with a 7.5. it must have been replaced.

    more edit : have confirmed the 7.5A is correct from several other sources. what year is yours, there may be a cutoff. i'm thinking it's when the e30 went to a single pump.

    yep, your car has both an internal and external pump, so a higher rated fuse. mine only has the in-tank pump. there's something else to check if you're not getting fuel, both pumps on a dual pump car need to be working. always thought the dual pump cars used the same fuse. makes sense they would be double the amp.
    no man the funny thing is I don't have a dual pump... I have only the in backseat one. the fuel pump and fuel sender unit .... vdo seimans and I think pump is bosch... all orignal...
    Last edited by Jcrunk; 02-20-2023 at 01:10 PM. Reason: vdo seimans is the sender unit

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