F10 528i N20 dies under hard acceleration

[Jboguth]

I searched, but could not find my particular problem so here I am!

Every bmw I have ever owned hates me (E46 M3, E63 M6, E65 7 series, F10 550i). This F10 is no different!

It drives perfectly with one exception, under full throttle it dies! If you are driving, it comes back on after a couple seconds and all electronics reset like you just started it. If you are taking off from a stop, then engine just shuts off and the dash says chassis stabilization. In eco mode, you have to really hammer it, normal mode a little less and sport mode it’s easy to do.. no sputtering or rough idle, no CEL.

Only codes that it triggers seem to be ICM related which I suspect are related to the power interruption. Codes are as follows:

CD9203 - radiator shutters - Permanent (was in a minor front end accident and I think the shutters were not hooked up or something was damaged

48279B - ICM Undervoltage - Intermittent
D019BF - interface eps signal invalid - Intermittent
D02D07 - signal (wheel torque powertrain 1) invalid, transmitter DME - Intermittent
D0156D - (wheel torque powertrain 3) missing, receiver ICM, transmitter - Intermittent
D01A08 - (wheel torque powertrain 6) receiver ICM, transmitter DME - Intermittent

It seems like when the car dies and shuts off it triggers these codes due to the loss in voltage and communication. I have many potential theories but am hoping someone may have dealt with something similar!

I have verified all battery connections and obvious grounds but not all. I’m having a hard time thinking something mechanical such as fuel pump or crank position sensor as there are no mechanical codes and it runs and drives flawlessly the rest of the time. It is only when you really put the pedal down, though it does seem to happen easier from a complete stop.

thanks in advance!

[Jboguth]

Update -

after checking vacuum lines and wires, I tried it again today. Decided to get on it while cold and noticed a whining (turbo maybe) and when I floored it, it didn’t take off but also didn’t die. It did trigger a drivetrain malfunction and had a code for boost pressure (low). I’ll inspect all turbo hoses this weekend, but maybe the turbo is failing.

[Jboguth]

Well, zero responses to this but I’ll post current status in case it helps anyone else! A shop believes the battery to be the issue. Car is looking for the bigger 106ah battery and previous owner installed an 80 ah battery and did not code it to the car. My canner will register a new battery but not recode so I will grab the bigger battery this weekend and try again. They are saying the vehicle isn’t getting the power it expects under load and therefore dying.

They did also mention a known relay issue (I think behind the glovebox) where people with the wrong relay or a faulty relay have had 100% same symptoms. So that will be my next step. Crazy to me that I cannot find ANYONE else talking about or dealing with this!

[trian]

Not the busiest forum. And BMWs have lots of signals/problems if the battery is not what it expects it to be. Even more problems if the battery is reaching the end of its life.

[Jboguth]

I’m seeing it’s not busy �� installed correct battery and registered to car. Problem persists. So weird how perfectly the car drives until you go too much throttle….

[Jboguth]

UPDATE

i think I’ve found the problem.. hopefully.. I found a very bad splice on the main B+ cable. Also looks like they spliced in a smaller cable… I learned that when the battery is charged, the alternator disengages under heavy throttle to reduce drag on the engine. Current theory is the terrible splice on the main cable is causing too much resistance for the car to get adequate power. Fingers crossed!

[Jboguth]

Final update in case someone else has this struggle. The problem, while simple was big! The cover was off on the power junction under the hood (the one with the battery terminal). Under load, the engine moves just enough for the sensor on the HPFP to contact that cable and short out the entire car!!! That was frustrating, but she is fixed and running well now! Now it’s time to fix the lock actuators and one of the headlights.

[aazevedo]

Thank you for your consistent follow ups. They will serve others well if they ever end up with this situation. Happy got this sorted out. I'm most likely buying one this weekend.

Aaron

[Jboguth]

Was super frustrating and apparently unheard of. So might as well put the info out there in case someone else acquires this problem ��. Alternator was also bad, and battery cable was also bad. So the car had a lot of problems lol