figuring out hours

[kaotikal]

I need to get a few things done this week and am trying to avoid BS pricing.

How many hours at a shop would it be roughly on a E39 540i to do both front stabilizer bar links, both rear flex hoses, and a front lower control arm? I need to get this done ASAP but just trying to avoid the "economy is in the can, so you're going to pay my mortgage" pricing.

[ross1]

Book time on 25 year old cars is worthless. One rusted fastener (Canada salts their roads, right?)can foul the whole process and take loads of extra time and materials.

The front links are usually easy, </~ an hour if no struggles. Control arm requires a bit more effort and is an item where you or your mechanic will likely be contending with corrosion(aluminum hub carrier + steel bolts = galvanic corrosion) where the strut (which needs to be lifted) is clamped in place.

Rear flex hoses are another spot that rust will slow you down. The connection to the hard line WILL be a struggle and you may wind up replacing some hard lines too. A frozen bleeder screw can cause lots of grief and possibly require a new caliper. A thorough job will include bleeding the entire system so add three more bleeders to the equation.

Anyone that commits to a firm time for this work is either a fool or padding the estimate.
If you don't feel that you can trust your mechanic to look out for your best interest find another.
Disregard any replies from those not familiar with rust belt cars.

[kaotikal]

Book time on 25 year old cars is worthless. One rusted fastener (Canada salts their roads, right?)can foul the whole process and take loads of extra time and materials.

The front links are usually easy, </~ an hour if no struggles. Control arm requires a bit more effort and is an item where you or your mechanic will likely be contending with corrosion(aluminum hub carrier + steel bolts = galvanic corrosion) where the strut (which needs to be lifted) is clamped in place.

Rear flex hoses are another spot that rust will slow you down. The connection to the hard line WILL be a struggle and you may wind up replacing some hard lines too. A frozen bleeder screw can cause lots of grief and possibly require a new caliper. A thorough job will include bleeding the entire system so add three more bleeders to the equation.

Anyone that commits to a firm time for this work is either a fool or padding the estimate.
If you don't feel that you can trust your mechanic to look out for your best interest find another.
Disregard any replies from those not familiar with rust belt cars.

I love your answer. Thanks.

It's a tough one. The mechanic is about $120 an hour and I'm really trying to get things in the 3 hour or so window. This car was going to be mostly for getting around town while we're still working from home, but getting basic stuff done is a killer. Even mechanics that you trust need to pay the bills.

The mechanic is probably going to give me a rough estimate of time, I know stuff goes wrong or right... but at least if it's going to take 4 or 5 hours and the mechanic says 4 or 5 hours then we're in a proper range.

I had a mechanic once tell me my Porsche brakes were 3 hours each to change. The Porsche forum flooded from all the guys pissing themselves at once hearing that.

[StephenVA]

3-4 hrs of shop time sounds about right. Think of it as a 1/2 day job with a lift, right tools, and forehand knowledge of the steps necessary to get it done in a orderly fashion. as mentioned above all bets are off once a bolt head is rusted to round. You might as well replace the lower control arm to body as it only takes a few more minutes.

[kaotikal]

I am going to see if I can soak the car in a tub of WD40 to get things loosened up

Thanks guys!

[ross1]

I am going to see if I can soak the car in a tub of WD40 to get things loosened up

Thanks guys!

WD40 isn't so great for this but there are good penetrants. PB Blaster is one and your mechanic would be grateful if you DID soak those fasteners a few times in the days before he has to work on it. I'm sure he'd rather not struggle than bill the hours.

[kallekula]

Guess it’s up to the shop how many hours they will charge, rust or not. Just make sure to get an estimate first.
I used to work for two indie Volvo shops on and off when I was new here in CA and couldn’t get any developer jobs because I had zero contacts that could vouch for me and employers were highly suspicious for some reason.
Anyhow, both shop owners were honest and used AllData to provide the hours needed. Working on cars here is very “easy” though. They all look brand new underneath even though if they have been around the block more than a couple of times. Try finding a good honest shop and stick with them. Good Luck!

[kaotikal]

Guess it’s up to the shop how many hours they will charge, rust or not. Just make sure to get an estimate first.
I used to work for two indie Volvo shops on and off when I was new here in CA and couldn’t get any developer jobs because I had zero contacts that could vouch for me and employers were highly suspicious for some reason.
Anyhow, both shop owners were honest and used AllData to provide the hours needed. Working on cars here is very “easy” though. They all look brand new underneath even though if they have been around the block more than a couple of times. Try finding a good honest shop and stick with them. Good Luck!

A lot of the shops here are either dealers, or shops run by old time mechanics. A lot of these guys are the ones that will replace what's wrong but the problem is never fixed. You really have to be on top of things. Pain especially if they can't tell you an estimate but want you to leave your car.

[Twistytee]

If you can find Kroil Penetrating Oil locally, it works better than the usual suspects. I had good luck soaking my flare nuts with penetrant before removing the flex lines and this car did spend some time in NJ, but you wouldn’t know it when looking at the undercarriage.

I feel your pain. Luckily the Indy I use for jobs I can’t do is only a few miles away so I throw my bike in the touring and commute back on pedal power

[kaotikal]

If you can find Kroil Penetrating Oil locally, it works better than the usual suspects. I had good luck soaking my flare nuts with penetrant before removing the flex lines and this car did spend some time in NJ, but you wouldn’t know it when looking at the undercarriage.

I feel your pain. Luckily the Indy I use for jobs I can’t do is only a few miles away so I throw my bike in the touring and commute back on pedal power

I went from doing all my work, to going to shops. It's tough getting old.

[Twistytee]

Haha. I’m older then I care to admit. I’ve been eyeing a garage lift for sometime as rolling around on my back using jack stands is a young man’s game.

[kaotikal]

Haha. I’m older then I care to admit. I’ve been eyeing a garage lift for sometime as rolling around on my back using jack stands is a young man’s game.

I am going to wait till they figure out those car subscriptions. My last car was a lease. Never saw a shop once.

[crdiscoverer]

I recommend watching all 3 or 4 of Project Farm's videos on penetrating oils:

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...enetrating+oil

[kaotikal]

I recommend watching all 3 or 4 of Project Farm's videos on penetrating oils:

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...enetrating+oil

I have to get my car fixed before I can get any penetrating oil, and by then it's too late. lol.

[kallekula]

Seafoam Deep Creep is the best penetrating oil I’ve tried so far. Think it’s one of the products the PF guy tries out. I love his youtube channel btw.

[kaotikal]

So here is an update guys, It ended up costing me $250 to do the work. Not bad at all.

[ross1]

So here is an update guys, It ended up costing me $250 to do the work. Not bad at all.

Sounds like a fair deal. Good to have a mechanic you can trust.

[kaotikal]

Indeed. Now need to fix a few other things.

[QtheGenius]

One thing to remember is a lot of shops say "the job books for 5 hours," as an example. That time is based on what the factory says it takes to do the job. So the benefit for the shop is if they can the job done in 3 hours, that's extra profit, but if it takes 7 hours, then they 'may' lose money, or book you for actuals if it's too much beyond the quote.

[kaotikal]

One thing to remember is a lot of shops say "the job books for 5 hours," as an example. That time is based on what the factory says it takes to do the job. So the benefit for the shop is if they can the job done in 3 hours, that's extra profit, but if it takes 7 hours, then they 'may' lose money, or book you for actuals if it's too much beyond the quote.

For sure. Usually I just like to have a ballpark idea of where things are headed. This shop will guestimate on experience.