1986 e23 No Engine Crank and No Start

[ihassan]

I've tried reading past forums but can't find replication of my now crank condition. Currently my e23 will not crank and it will not start obviously without the crank. When I turn the key everything powers up and I hear the HVAC pump engage, the idle control starts tu buzz, and I get the clicks engaging the gear shift selector safety so everything sounds normal. However when I turn the key to actually start the car, nothing happens. This used to be an intermittent issue and I would notice that the no crank issues would sometimes appear as a result from when the engine was at normal operating condition and the car had just been turned off.
I I would let the car cool down for approximately an hour, the car would start right up without any issue. Now there is no crank at all regardless of engine temp. I did change the starter several years ago but it seemed the problem replicated itself identically using both starters.

Any suggestions?

[8991XJ]

I don't know how to diagnose a bad ignition switch but I do know you can trigger the starter from the diagnostic plug in the engine compartment.

Maybe set the car up for a start and see if this option gets the car started. If so and the switch does not get it to crank, the ignition switch may be bad.

[ihassan]

Thank you for responding , I will try what you have suggested. Do you know how I could get the car to start using the diagnostic port?. Are there any specific instructions for that.?

[8991XJ]

go to www.e38.org/e23 and drop down to the middle of the left column or bottom of the left column and get the ETM electrical troubleshooting manual for your car. Look up the diagnostic connector and see which pin powers the starter (#11) and which supplies power (#14). The ETM indicates that this pin supplies 12V to pull in the solenoid and operate the starter.

For the car to start, it needs to be in the start or run position on the key. If the car is a manual, bumping the starter will rotate the engine and the transmission so the car needs to be in neutral. An auto needs to be in park. I don't know about any automatic start lock outs on these cars mine are manual.

I don't know if this is a work around for a bad ignition switch as I don't know those issues. You can go to mye28.org and read about 'diagnostic connector start' after a search on the main page to learn more.

[m735is]

Yes, 11 and 14. Pay attention to the pin numbers on the cap though! I have been starting my 85 auto this way for years due to a bad ignition switch because it's not currently on the road .

[8991XJ]

The pin numbers seem reversed on the cap but if you put the cap on the connector the numbers are correct. Verify before you try. The ETM has em labeled as you see them instead of the backwards cap diagram.

[ihassan]

I appreciate the assistance and comments. I will try out these options and report back to the thread.

[ihassan]

So I did what you all suggested. I used a paperclip to connect port 11 and 14 on the diagnostic port in the engine compartment. Within 2 to 3 attempts, the car cranked right up and started. From some earlier threads, it sounds like this condition points to a bad ignition switch. Is that a good starting point to replace the ignition switch.?

Again, thank you fir all your assistance.

[8991XJ]

Yes a new ignition switch should fix the issue.

Or just upgrade to push button start installing a permanent connection to the ports with a switch for the driver to use...at least I think that is a way to make our cars 20-plus years younger.

[ihassan]

I will attempt to change the ignition switch. Is it a difficult procedure? I assume I've got to remove the cover under the steering column to get to the switch and harness connector.

As far as the push button option goes, I think I prefer the paperclip ...

Thanks again.

[Hit Man X]

I like to remove the steering wheel as to not bash my head upon it...plus more space to move about.

You need a small set of screwdrivers. Think eyeglasses ones. This is to loosen that 'grub screw' in there.