easiest way to manual swap a 99 528i

[dirty39]

alright well i pulled off my dme cover and now im looking for the x60004 connector, ive tried to look online for images of it but im not really seeing anything however i will continue to look. [mention]effduration [/mention] thanks for the help so far im able to understand a little bit better because of your help. ill keep you guys updated.


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[dirty39]

All this is on-line….though it takes a little work to search, read and figure it out. I suggest you do more searching.

None of these will work until you code it, I wouldn’t even try to start car before coding. Be sure to unplug the old Auto transmission DME, called EGS.

On the reverse switch, the Gray with purple wire needs to be extended and have the correct pin soldered on and plugged into empty slot #25 in connector X10114 which is behind your instrument cluster.
The second wire – should be brown, but in your case its yellow-orange, is a ground wire…connect it securely to a good ground. You should be able to fine the correct pin from another wiring harness (junkyard or?) or possibly in your now-unused automatic wiring.

Look for pictures of connector X10114 on-line...I have a picture of it, but can't figure out how to post it here.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Clutch Switch:
“….On my clutch switch i have 4 wires a solid blue, a blue with brownish line, purple with yellow line, and a brown with black line.”

Let’s Remember that your clutch switch is 4-wire and comes from an ’03 E39… The ’99 E39 clutch switch used three wires….Here is how you wire up your 4-wire switch.

1. Blue with Brown – extended and run to DME , solder a pin and insert into empty slot 23 in connector X60004 at DME (search on-line for pic an location)
2. Purple with Yellow - This is your power line…you need a 5amp 12v source… from the factory they use empty slot #82 in connector X10015 (Fuse#41), But I would use any 5 amp 12 volt power source. I think I used a low amp power wire – that still had power – from the automatic transmission.
3. Brown with Black - this is your ground wire..extend as necessary and connect securely to a good ground.

1. Solid Blue ( actually Blue with black stripe) - I don’t believe this is needed on pre-’01 E39’s… On pre ’01 E39’s the DME uses the Blue with Brown wire above to control BOTH clutch safety and cruise control (I think) On post ’01 cars , this is your separate clutch safety switch wire. In all E39’s You CAN code out (or off) the clutch safety non-start switch in NCS Expert.

hey where you say that the gray with purple needs to be extended and ran go slot #25 of connector X10114, i do not see any sort of markings that indicate if this is that X10114 connector however i believe it is the white one which connected to the speedo. is this in fact correct? i took a pin and the wire out of the connector i had pulled from the junkyard and will just splice a few feet of wire to run it to the gray with purple wire on the trans reverse switch.
the purple/orangish color wire is the one i pinned into the slot #25 of that white with white cover connector which went behind the speedo which i believe to be X10114.[mention]effduration [/mention]is this correct?

the reason i am believing this is X10114 is because the other connector (white with white cover and goes behind the tach) has a wire pinned into slot #25 already.


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[dirty39]

connected the reverse switch just need to ground it. and then need to start workin on the clutch switch wiring.


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[dirty39]

I did more digging and found the X60004 connector i believe. used https://www.rpmmotorsport.net/pages/...s-1995-to-2002 and they had images on the connectors at the dme.

i believe this is the x60004 ive been looking for.


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[dirty39]

perhaps this is not x60004. Pin 23 is already in use.


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[dirty39]

perhaps that website told me false information. however i referred back to my video and saw he said the X60004 is the 40pin connector on dme and i went over to it and found it right away. I am going to pin that wire from the clutch switch in it now.
that brings me to this point now. should i stick to the wiring im currently doing or just follow the wiring instructions listed in the description of this video. it says its for a wagon however i am not sure how much it changes.


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[dirty39]

alright well this is a weird road block but definitely a road block. The pins and wires from the connectors from the cluster wont fit in the connector for the X60004 at the DME. Not sure If these pins are too big or too long or what but im just going to be grabbing more connectors anyways tomorrow.

are the pins that are used in different connectors different sizes or what? because i took the pin out of slot #22 and it snapped right into the slot #23.

anyways thats all for tonight first thing tomorrow im going back to the junkyard to pull that x60004 and use the pins off of that to possibly complete this swap electrically.

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[effduration]

I am pleased to see you are doing some good digging online...

I don't think you have the correct X10114 connector above.

I am reading that connector X10114 is a blue, 26-pin connector behind the cluster and it is made up of 2 rows of 13 pins.
Each slot should be labeled with a tine number... and slot #25 should be empty...

Yes pins used in various connectors come in several different sizes and shapes.

[effduration]

"...Should i stick to the wiring im currently doing or just follow the wiring instructions listed in the description of this video. it says its for a wagon however i am not sure how much it changes...."

It's Up to you...I believe that is Shop Life's e39 swap video on a facelift 6 cyl wagon...You have a pre-facelift car. He is simply tapping into power and ground on the brake switch...that works.
..I don't think you have to wire in the EWS as he described on 6 cyl cars AND if you code it as a manual properly...I didn't on mine.

[Auto Parts Guy]

X60004 at the DME
GN/SW = Gruen/Schwartz= Green/Black
IMG_20230115_091929069.jpg

[dirty39]

I am pleased to see you are doing some good digging online...

I don't think you have the correct X10114 connector above.

I am reading that connector X10114 is a blue, 26-pin connector behind the cluster and it is made up of 2 rows of 13 pins.
Each slot should be labeled with a tine number... and slot #25 should be empty...

Yes pins used in various connectors come in several different sizes and shapes.

Sounds good. I believe that the X10114 connector is only on high clusters, i saw in that video that he mentions the high clusters having a blue connector aswell. should i move the wire to pin #4 of the black connector as shown in that video description?


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[dirty39]

[mention]effduration [/mention] i have everything wired up except the purple/yellow from the clutch switch. In the youtube video by e39 source he mentions some 12v sour series from that 6pin connector from the auto trans gear selector. 2red with yellow constant 12v, and a switched 12v purple with white wire. do you know if any of these were the same one you used? or if any of these are a 5amp 12v power source i could use.

I also moved the wire that went from the reverse switch at the trans from pin #25 of that connector i thought was x10114, to pin # 4 of the black connector at the cluster.

I figured since i was this far in i would try to bleed the clutch system…. That did not work at all i think i just sucked whatever fluid i had left in the system out. i have a manual pressure bleeder but it didnt work out very well. Any tips for easily bleeding this system?


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[dirty39]

[mention]effduration [/mention] 4 main points of this post, ive ended the night of working on the car still couldn’t figure out bleeding the clutch or finding the 12v 5amp power wire i should use however i have these few points which i still need to cover before i am finished( to my belief.)

1.This is probably a really dumb question…. But id there somesort of spring or something that is supposed to bring the clutch back to normal resting position beside the pressure the clutch fluid(brake fluid) provides? I realized when i got my pedal assembly off the seller on ebay i was missing carious pieces( the clutch switch, accelerator pedal post thing , and some clips.) none of these are really an issue except for that return spring or whatever it might be.

2.also another thing for the coding. I have a Kcan cable that i can connect from my laptop to the obd port inside the car. Do i need that 20pin adapter to do the coding/ uploading the new manual tune? or will i be okay just using the Kcan cable and the obd port.

2.2 will i be able follow the coding instructions in the description of the video by “ShopLifeTV” including finding a manual tune? or do you recommend another set of instructions for coding/ getting a manual tune.?

3.I was never able to find anything online regarding 5amp 12v power wires that i could use for the clutch switch. any suggestions( i am not trying to tap into a wire that is already in use i would much rather connect something to an open pin at one of the connectors.)

4. what tips do you have for bleeding this damn clutch? Im use to working on older cars with mechanical clutch linkages but this hydraulic system is a little confusing.

5. Sorry had forgotten 1 thing id been wondering but had completely blew past my mind. The connector for the trans computer. I have one large connector that goes into what i believe is the trans computer. do i unplug this or leave it plugged in? Are any of these wires able to be used as a 5amp 12v power source?


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[effduration]

I figured since i was this far in i would try to bleed the clutch system…. That did not work at all i think i just sucked whatever fluid i had left in the system out. i have a manual pressure bleeder but it didnt work out very well. Any tips for easily bleeding this system?

Yeah the clutch bleeding for me was easy - one try - based on a tip from my favorite BMW tech.

1. Remove clutch slave cylinder from trans and wire it up to the frame - don't let it hang.
2. Fill fluid reservoir to tip- top. fluid needs to get over the partition in reservoir to the clutch side
3. Buy a cheap 12 inch plastic carpenter's trigger clamp and use it to squeeze and lock slave piston in depressed position.
- I drilled a hole/indent in one side of clamp to hold slave piston tip.
4. Apply 10-15 psi of pressure with bleeder to reservoir.
5. Bleed clutch line at slave under pressure as described. You should slowly press clutch pedal 1-2 times during the process.

Be sure NOT to release clamp on slave until pressure (from either pressure bleeder or somebody pressing clutch) is removed. If you put pressure into the slave when it is not installed in trans or clamped, piston will shoot out of slave.

[dirty39]

Yeah the clutch bleeding for me was easy - one try - based on a tip from my favorite BMW tech.

1. Remove clutch slave cylinder from trans and wire it up to the frame - don't let it hang.
2. Fill fluid reservoir to tip- top. fluid needs to get over the partition in reservoir to the clutch side
3. Buy a cheap 12 inch plastic carpenter's trigger clamp and use it to squeeze and lock slave piston in depressed position.
- I drilled a hole/indent in one side of clamp to hold slave piston tip.
4. Apply 10-15 psi of pressure with bleeder to reservoir.
5. Bleed clutch line at slave under pressure as described. You should slowly press clutch pedal 1-2 times during the process.

Be sure NOT to release clamp on slave until pressure (from either pressure bleeder or somebody pressing clutch) is removed. If you put pressure into the slave when it is not installed in trans or clamped, piston will shoot out of slave.

Sounds good! any thing to add onto those points i had in the previous post?


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[effduration]

1.This is probably a really dumb question…. But id there some sort of spring or something that is supposed to bring the clutch back to normal resting position beside the pressure the clutch fluid(brake fluid) provides? I realized when i got my pedal assembly off the seller on ebay i was missing carious pieces( the clutch switch, accelerator pedal post thing , and some clips.) none of these are really an issue except for that return spring or whatever it might be.

Yes I believe there is a return spring on the clutch pedal, look at pictures online and/or look at RealOEM... You could have looked it up in the time it took you to type it up and for me to respond.

2.also another thing for the coding. I have a Kcan cable that i can connect from my laptop to the obd port inside the car. Do i need that 20pin adapter to do the coding/ uploading the new manual tune? or will i be okay just using the Kcan cable and the obd port.

Since you have M52tu and 20-pin connector you should jump pins #2 & #17 in to 20-pin connector cap then use the OBD2 port as described in this thread, which I am sure you searched:
https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/g...fully.1265672/

2.2 will i be able follow the coding instructions in the description of the video by “ShopLifeTV” including finding a manual tune? or do you recommend another set of instructions for coding/ getting a manual tune.?

I am not going to watch the ShoplifeTV... what I did is described in this post:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ter-AT-MT-Swap

3.I was never able to find anything online regarding 5amp 12v power wires that i could use for the clutch switch. any suggestions( i am not trying to tap into a wire that is already in use i would much rather connect something to an open pin at one of the connectors.)

I had access to wiring diagrams...I think what I did was was use a wire that ran to the old auto shifter that had 3,5 or 10 amp 12v..no more. Then I extended it to the clutch switch.

4. what tips do you have for bleeding this damn clutch? Im use to working on older cars with mechanical clutch linkages but this hydraulic system is a little confusing.

See my other post.

5. Sorry had forgotten 1 thing id been wondering but had completely blew past my mind. The connector for the trans computer. I have one large connector that goes into what i believe is the trans computer. do i unplug this or leave it plugged in? Are any of these wires able to be used as a 5amp 12v power source?

Yes you definitely want to unplug the Trans ECU (EGS). If you don't the car will still think its an automatic.

[dirty39]

Yes I believe there is a return spring on the clutch pedal, look at pictures online and/or look at RealOEM... You could have looked it up in the time it took you to type it up and for me to respond.



Since you have M52tu and 20-pin connector you should jump pins #2 & #17 in to 20-pin connector cap then use the OBD2 port as described in this thread, which I am sure you searched:
https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/g...fully.1265672/



I am not going to watch the ShoplifeTV... what I did is described in this post:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ter-AT-MT-Swap



I had access to wiring diagrams...I think what I did was was use a wire that ran to the old auto shifter that had 3,5 or 10 amp 12v..no more. Then I extended it to the clutch switch.



See my other post.



Yes you definitely want to unplug the Trans ECU (EGS). If you don't the car will still think its an automatic.

I tapped the purple/yellow wire from the clutch switch into the purple/yellow wire from the brake switch. I believe that the purple/yellow wire from the brake switch is a power wire since the guy in the shop lifetv video tapped his purple/ white wire from the clutch switch to the purple/white wire at the brake switch. Should this work? and I an going to be leaving the solid blue wire alone going to nothing. Is this correct?

*Again i want to mention that i moved the wire that went from my reverse switch to the pin #4 of the black connector behind my low cluster.

If all of this wiring is good and correct should i be ready to turn the key to begin coding? I read somewhere that i can find a stock manual tune for my specific car using RealOEM. Is this a good idea?
- for the coding process i see u told me to jump those pins on the cap of that circle connector. would i need to do that if i have this?



I still have not bled the clutch and i have school starting back up tomorrow so maybe another night this week ill get to bleeding it if i dont end up trying to do it tonight.

other then that i just need a return spring for my clutch pedal. Turns out i was missing a “compression spring” aswell as the return spring.

but yea thanks for all the help so far if anything else pops up ill be sure to post about it


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[effduration]

I tapped the purple/yellow wire from the clutch switch into the purple/yellow wire from the brake switch. I believe that the purple/yellow wire from the brake switch is a power wire since the guy in the shop lifetv video tapped his purple/ white wire from the clutch switch to the purple/white wire at the brake switch. Should this work? and I an going to be leaving the solid blue wire alone going to nothing. Is this correct?

That sounds like it should work. I would test for power on the brake switch, but it sounds right.

*Again i want to mention that i moved the wire that went from my reverse switch to the pin #4 of the black connector behind my low cluster.

You are correct on the this, the Low Cluster has a different connector...You DO need to wire the reverse wire to #4 of connector X11175, which is a 26-pin black connector on back of the low cluster.

If all of this wiring is good and correct should i be ready to turn the key to begin coding? I read somewhere that i can find a stock manual tune for my specific car using RealOEM. Is this a good idea?

I would not do it that way. I would change the ZCS strings in NCS Expert as described on-line.

- for the coding process i see u told me to jump those pins on the cap of that circle connector. would i need to do that if i have this?

Yes, that dongle should work...





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[dirty39]

That sounds like it should work. I would test for power on the brake switch, but it sounds right.



You are correct on the this, the Low Cluster has a different connector...You DO need to wire the reverse wire to #4 of connector X11175, which is a 26-pin black connector on back of the low cluster.



I would not do it that way. I would change the ZCS strings in NCS Expert as described on-line.




Yes, that dongle should work...





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[/QUOTE]

Changing the ZCS strings in NCS expert is for the coding, i was asking about flashing a manual tune. But if i dont need to reflash the dme and just need to recode then that will be pretty nice.

And sorry im just confused. If i use that dongle, do i still have to jump the pins under the cap of that circle connector under the hood? since that dongle just plugs into that port.

i believe i should be able to have the car ready by the end of the week i will get back to you with any updates.


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[effduration]

You don't need to flash a manual tune. I didn't...

I changed the ZCS codes, and then "code whole car" or similar in NCS Expert.

[dirty39]

[QUOTE=effduration;30857904] I am not going to watch the ShoplifeTV... what I did is described in this post:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ter-AT-MT-Swap
This information in this and the instructions for this will translate onto my 99 (12/98) 528i? or is there any differences in the code i need to make?


My dongle should be here Friday and i am hoping to code it and have it running Friday night.


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[effduration]

See Thread below - which documents a man swap on a '99 528i like yours ... Read this thread a few times.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...pictures/page2

in post #40, he described how he used the 20-pin connector and used Kassel Performance to remote in and code his swap...It was only $85 then...
I suggest you do the same.

[dirty39]

[mention]effduration [/mention] i think i am going to try to code the car myself ive been looking around online and am starting to get a little familiar with the software. I feel i can do this as it seems a little simple, however it is still a little confusing as its going to be my first time. Im going to continue to look around online to get more coding specifics and if the coding between the different i6 e39s is drastically different.


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[dirty39]

On REALoem my type code is: DM63. After switching transmission type the new type code is DM53.


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[dirty39]

since i didnt wire up that last wire from the clutch switch to anything do i have to code out the clutch switch and the cruise control aswell?


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