easiest way to manual swap a 99 528i

[dirty39]

So ive gathered all the big parts for the manual swap(trans, shifter, pedals, clutch/flywheel,driveshaft, and support bracket) however i am a little intimidated by the wiring/coding portion of this. Is there any way to have the car run and always think its in park so it will allow it to rev up? Or honestly if there are anyways to easily wire and code it for the swap it would be greatly appreciated.
*my car is a 12/98 built 1999 528ia*

[effduration]

what about the rear diff?

The wiring up of a 6 cyl e39 is pretty damn easy.

you need to wire up the reverse switch to the cluster
and you need to wire in the cruise control and clutch switch (if you don’t code it out)

after that you can use NCS EXPERT to code it for you. There are people who can remote in to your connected lap top and do it.

Don’t cut corners on the manual swap.

[dirty39]

alright i was just a little intimated and im going to begin pulling the car apart today just had a slow start to the morning. i thought that you could use the diff from the autos which is kinda preferred because of the diff ratio. if this is not the case then i need to take a trip back to the junkyard to grab the diff out of my donor car. any wiring diagrams to the swap wiring?

[CPHES]

Touring conversion thread - you might get some good info here - mostly for V8 / 540 - but it might help - https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-Wiring-Coding

[effduration]

Read and Read and Read some more...I posted a couple of links in your other thread on wiring the clutch switch.

You need to figure out witch clutch pedal/master cylinder you have...Do you have the older style pedal switches -one red, one blue, or do you have the new one with the Hall-type switch and four leads that clips to the master cylinder.

Trust me...go get the E39 6 cyl manual trans rear diff... the '99 528i auto trans rear diff is either 3.46 or 4.1 the manual diff is 2.97 (I think).. you won't like the frequent shifting or the high RPMs if you use the auto diff.

[dirty39]

the pedal assembly i have came off of a 03 530. I honestly do not know what you are referring to by the older/ new pedal switches. i see a hole cut out to where there possibly should be a switch like the brake light switch however there is not a switch on the clutch pedal or anything like that.

[effduration]

the pedal assembly i have came off of a 03 530. I honestly do not know what you are referring to by the older/ new pedal switches. i see a hole cut out to where there possibly should be a switch like the brake light switch however there is not a switch on the clutch pedal or anything like that.

More research is necessary...Read every e39 manual swap thread you can...

Here is a thread on this issue - old and new clutch switches: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...h-electronics)

from an '03 530i, you almost certainly have the new-style clutch switch. See pic below, Do you have this switch, hopefully with 4 wires cut from the same '03 530i? It snaps into the Master cylinder that connects to the clutch line above the clutch pedal. If you don't, you need this switch part# 35426876898 and harness part#61116911072.

[CPHES]

BMW made many changes to the e39 over time. Your best swap would be with all parts coming from a late 98 build 528 manual. This would be both pre LCI - Life Cycle Improvment ( pre face lift ). A 2003 530 is going to be different, and you need to read the stuff we sent in prior posts. I’ve done swaps before - in Volvo’s, and other non bmw cars. A lot of detail went into all of these events, and the details will make or break you.

[effduration]

BMW made many changes to the e39 over time. Your best swap would be with all parts coming from a late 98 build 528 manual. This would be both pre LCI - Life Cycle Improvment ( pre face lift ). A 2003 530 is going to be different, and you need to read the stuff we sent in prior posts. I’ve done swaps before - in Volvo’s, and other non bmw cars. A lot of detail went into all of these events, and the details will make or break you.

This is true, but OP can complete the swap with the '03 parts he has...There are a couple of differences, but only a couple, that matter to this swap.

-Clutch switch (minor)
-Which rear diff he currently has (minor)
-MS42 vs M43 - accessing DME modules through round port, etc. (also minor)

[dirty39]

Hey there everyone thanks for all the feedback and everything. Today i got the exhaust pulled auto driveshaft hanging by the real and all the etorx bolts around the trans as well as draining the trans. the only pieces from this that are off of the 03 530 is the pedal assembly. Everything else i gathered was from a 01/98 528i. I would have gotten the pedal assembly from that 98 but they were already removed when i found the car at the “pick your part”. The pick your part just recently received a 02 525i would it be worth to pull the clutch switch and harness from this car or just get the whole pedal assembly and use this one? If so a short trip to the junkyard isnt a big issue, im wanting to have the auto trans fully removed and possibly stab the new one in by the end of tomorrow. Once again want to thank you guys for the help so far.

[effduration]

The pick your part just recently received a 02 525i would it be worth to pull the clutch switch and harness from this car or just get the whole pedal assembly and use this one? .

If the '03 pedal assembly includes the clutch master cylinder - and I expect it does, yes go get the switch and harness from the '02 525i.

Do you have the steel/rubber clutch line that runs from pedals to slave cylinder? If not, grab that too...and go get that rear diff

[dirty39]

alright sounds good im just getting my morning started and going off to the junkyard. Should i grab the diff off of the 98 528 or the 02 530? I was thinking itd be better to grab the one out of the 528 since i already have the driveshaft pulled from that car. And yes i have the master cyl. the slave cyl. and the steel clutch line, aswell as the rubber line that runs from the master to the brake reservoir.

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another thing is will i be able to use the stock auto axels with the diff out of the manual car?

[dirty39]

sorry the car at there are two cars at the junkyard a 02 525i(not 530) or the 98 528i. I had confused myself and thought the 02 was the 530 i had gotten my pedal assembly from. Im here at the junkyard now and am going to be walking out onto the yard now. i will first be going to the 02 525 to grab the switch for clutch master cylinder. And then if recommended to pull the diff off this car i will, however ill have to pull the driveshaft and exhaust off which i am not really wanting to do. Or i could go to the other yard and grab the diff out of the 98 528 which is the same car i pulled just about everything for the swap from.

[dirty39]

so i pulled the switch and cut about 3 inches of the harnes of the 4 lead connector going into the switch. the part numbers or just numbers written in general on it were
6 905 900.9
0-14 12044-5 (in black at the top)

259392 (written in white at the bottom where the connector goes in) im having trouble attaching an image but i believe its the same one.
im going to be going to the other lot to pull the diff from the 98 528.

[dirty39]

well today i didnt end up getting that diff out of the 98 528. While working it began to pour down on me and i decided to just come back another day. I went home and ended up finishing pulling the driveshaft as well as the transmission and the lines going to the cooler. Still need to pull a few other things before i start putting it together but all is going smooth so far. Just still need to get the diff out of the donor car.

[dirty39]

well i went back to the junkyard today and was able to pull the 2.93 differential out of the 98 528i. i am in the process of installing everything now.

[effduration]

well i went back to the junkyard today and was able to pull the 2.93 differential out of the 98 528i. i am in the process of installing everything now.

at the risk of stating obvious....

Be sure to check fluid levels on both the trans and Diff - you should replace both anyways.. Junkyards usually drain all fluids before the car is put in the yard for customers.

[dirty39]

Yea im aware of this. I have new fluid for both the trans and diff. I might be taking this 2.93 diff back to the junkyard to replace it with a 3.46 from a 330i. I was having issues stabbing the trans in, it seemed no matter what it would always get caught in the same position, like ths input shaft wasnt fully seating or going into the pilot bearing that sits in the back of the crank. I may have not seated it all the way but i believe i did. I will be having another look at it later today.

[effduration]

Yea im aware of this. I have new fluid for both the trans and diff. I might be taking this 2.93 diff back to the junkyard to replace it with a 3.46 from a 330i. I was having issues stabbing the trans in, it seemed no matter what it would always get caught in the same position, like ths input shaft wasnt fully seating or going into the pilot bearing that sits in the back of the crank. I may have not seated it all the way but i believe i did. I will be having another look at it later today.

Not sure what the diff has to do with struggling to put the trans in.

You do you, but I wouldn't run a 3.46 rear diff in an e39... too many shifts before 25mph, and highway revs above 4,000 rpms...

On trans install...
did you install a pilot bearing in your engine which was an automatic?
did you align the clutch and pressure plate with the correct alignment tool?
Do you have the right clutch disc?...It's different for a 525i and 530i and 528i I think
Are you sure you have the clutch disc facing the correct way?

[dirty39]

The diff has nothing to do with the trans going in i was just simply stating future plans. Im looming for the 3.46 diff for the occasional sliding/drifting i do, and with the 2.93 ive heard it would be too sluggish to do 2nd sliding. However i purchased an aftermarket clutch kit. Single mass flywheel, stage 2 clutch disc and pressure plate. I believe the clutch was installed properly. I followed the images supplied on the installation instructions however the images weren't very good. The flatter surface of the disc is against the flywheel while the part of the disc that extrudes a bit is on the side of the pressure plate. The pilot bearing was installed and yes the engine was once powering an automatic car. The correct clutch instal tool was used( same size as input shaft and would sit perfectly inside of the pilot bearing). The clutch kit purchased is stated is for 323, 325, 328, 525, 528, z3 and m3 e36.

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I was supplied 2 pilot bearing with the kit. One of which was the right size for my input shaft which is the one i installed.

[dirty39]

Alright, well i have the car mechanically together. I am having a really hard time understanding the wiring. I get that i need to wire in the clutch switch and the reverse switch im just having a hard time understanding how exactly to do so.

{after completing the mechanical portion of the instal i wanted to see if there was any way i could connect the 5pin connector that connected to the selector mechanism off of the GM auto trans, and get the car to read its in park and start it. I got the car to read the P signal aswell as the N signal and tried to start it and nothing happened. *I figure is just going to be a dead end so i want to wire it properly}

On my clutch switch i have 4 wires a solid blue, a blue with brownish line, purple with yellow line, and a brown with black line.

on my reverse switch on the trans i have 2 wires running from it, a yellow/orangish color, and a gray with purple line.

to what exactly do i wire these too and then once the wiring is complete what will i need to code. I already have all of the software for coding installed and have a connector which connects into my obd port. I see there is also another cable people use which connects into the round port in the hood of the car. Do i also need this. I was hoping to have the car done by Sunday however i feel this is no longer accomplishable.

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again this car i am swapping into is a 99 528i built in 12/98. it is an american car and originally cane with the GM auto Transmission.

[effduration]

On my clutch switch i have 4 wires a solid blue, a blue with brownish line, purple with yellow line, and a brown with black line.

on my reverse switch on the trans i have 2 wires running from it, a yellow/orangish color, and a gray with purple line.

to what exactly do i wire these too and then once the wiring is complete what will i need to code.

All this is on-line….though it takes a little work to search, read and figure it out. I suggest you do more searching.

None of these will work until you code it, I wouldn’t even try to start car before coding. Be sure to unplug the old Auto transmission DME, called EGS.

On the reverse switch, the Gray with purple wire needs to be extended and have the correct pin soldered on and plugged into empty slot #25 in connector X10114 which is behind your instrument cluster.
The second wire – should be brown, but in your case its yellow-orange, is a ground wire…connect it securely to a good ground. You should be able to fine the correct pin from another wiring harness (junkyard or?) or possibly in your now-unused automatic wiring.

Look for pictures of connector X10114 on-line...I have a picture of it, but can't figure out how to post it here.

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Clutch Switch:
“….On my clutch switch i have 4 wires a solid blue, a blue with brownish line, purple with yellow line, and a brown with black line.”

Let’s Remember that your clutch switch is 4-wire and comes from an ’03 E39… The ’99 E39 clutch switch used three wires….Here is how you wire up your 4-wire switch.

1. Blue with Brown – extended and run to DME , solder a pin and insert into empty slot 23 in connector X60004 at DME (search on-line for pic an location)
2. Purple with Yellow - This is your power line…you need a 5amp 12v source… from the factory they use empty slot #82 in connector X10015 (Fuse#41), But I would use any 5 amp 12 volt power source. I think I used a low amp power wire – that still had power – from the automatic transmission.
3. Brown with Black - this is your ground wire..extend as necessary and connect securely to a good ground.

1. Solid Blue ( actually Blue with black stripe) - I don’t believe this is needed on pre-’01 E39’s… On pre ’01 E39’s the DME uses the Blue with Brown wire above to control BOTH clutch safety and cruise control (I think) On post ’01 cars , this is your separate clutch safety switch wire. In all E39’s You CAN code out (or off) the clutch safety non-start switch in NCS Expert.

[dirty39]

All this is on-line….though it takes a little work to search, read and figure it out. I suggest you do more searching.

None of these will work until you code it, I wouldn’t even try to start car before coding. Be sure to unplug the old Auto transmission DME, called EGS.

On the reverse switch, the Gray with purple wire needs to be extended and have the correct pin soldered on and plugged into empty slot #25 in connector X10114 which is behind your instrument cluster.
The second wire – should be brown, but in your case its yellow-orange, is a ground wire…connect it securely to a good ground. You should be able to fine the correct pin from another wiring harness (junkyard or?) or possibly in your now-unused automatic wiring.

Look for pictures of connector X10114 on-line...I have a picture of it, but can't figure out how to post it here.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Clutch Switch:
“….On my clutch switch i have 4 wires a solid blue, a blue with brownish line, purple with yellow line, and a brown with black line.”

Let’s Remember that your clutch switch is 4-wire and comes from an ’03 E39… The ’99 E39 clutch switch used three wires….Here is how you wire up your 4-wire switch.

1. Blue with Brown – extended and run to DME , solder a pin and insert into empty slot 23 in connector X60004 at DME (search on-line for pic an location)
2. Purple with Yellow - This is your power line…you need a 5amp 12v source… from the factory they use empty slot #82 in connector X10015 (Fuse#41), But I would use any 5 amp 12 volt power source. I think I used a low amp power wire – that still had power – from the automatic transmission.
3. Brown with Black - this is your ground wire..extend as necessary and connect securely to a good ground.

1. Solid Blue ( actually Blue with black stripe) - I don’t believe this is needed on pre-’01 E39’s… On pre ’01 E39’s the DME uses the Blue with Brown wire above to control BOTH clutch safety and cruise control (I think) On post ’01 cars , this is your separate clutch safety switch wire. In all E39’s You CAN code out (or off) the clutch safety non-start switch in NCS Expert.

Hey there thanks for all of the help. Im heading out to the junkyard this morning (as i do every weekend) i see you recommended me grabbing pins off unused connectors. should i just grab a bunch of connectors with some of the wiring and just take the connectors and depin them at home?also was going to look at this new 98 528i they just got in the other day, i was going to look at maybe grabbing a clutch switch off of that car or would you say its not a big deal using mine off of the 02 525? i dont think there is anything major i still need to grab however ill just see what i find there.


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[effduration]

Hey there thanks for all of the help. Im heading out to the junkyard this morning (as i do every weekend) i see you recommended me grabbing pins off unused connectors. should i just grab a bunch of connectors with some of the wiring and just take the connectors and depin them at home?also was going to look at this new 98 528i they just got in the other day, i was going to look at maybe grabbing a clutch switch off of that car or would you say its not a big deal using mine off of the 02 525? i dont think there is anything major i still need to grab however ill just see what i find there.


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yes, although I would look at the connectors I mentioned…one at DME and one behind the cluster and figure out which pins they use…som use square some use round, etc.

[dirty39]

yes, although I would look at the connectors I mentioned…one at DME and one behind the cluster and figure out which pins they use…som use square some use round, etc.

so i pulled out the cluster out of the new 98 528i that arrived at the junkyard. the trans was already pulled out. Anyways this is a low cluster with both connectors being white one of them however has a white cover over the connector behind the speedo and the other has a black cover over the connector behind the tach. I removed both of these connectors and cut them both with about 5 inches left of wiring. Should i take these home with me and depin all of the pins to use for other uses? anyways i think im done here and i will be leaving if anything else comes to mind on what i should pull i will.

ps. i was going to pop open the dme cover on this car however i forgot my 5mm alan bit so i wont be able to open it up.


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