Heater control valve critical failure.

**seagreen323i** · 12-15-2022, 12:38 PM

Uh oh...

The cup for the aux water pump impeller has developed cracks and is shooting coolant out from the insides of the pump.

I just rebuilt this thing only for it to leak just as bad as before. I missed these little cracks, dang it.

Anybody have a temporary fix idea? I've got to drive 350 miles on Friday, and I've gotta take the 540 with me....

I'm wondering if I can smear some epoxy inside the cup and seal it off that way.
Any ideas are welcome.

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**JimLev** · 12-15-2022, 12:43 PM

I’ve got a spare but it would never get to you by tomorrow.
Try the epoxy and bring a LOT of coolant with you.
If that doesn’t work you could try to Y the 3 hoses together. At least your get heat, maybe too much.

**seagreen323i** · 12-15-2022, 12:44 PM

Originally Posted by JimLev

I’ve got a spare but it would never get to you by tomorrow.
Try the epoxy and bring a LOT of coolant with you.
If that doesn’t work you could try to Y the 3 hoses together. At least your get heat, maybe too much.

Previously I just had the coolant manifold feeding back into itself. Wasn't sure if that messed with engine cooling and the hose sizes were all wrong. Might just have to do that again.

Not sure how I'd hook the heater hoses up together, 2 outputs on the motor and 3 inputs into the heater core and I'm not sure what any of them do.

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**seagreen323i** · 12-15-2022, 12:58 PM

Yes I know the engine bay looks like crap, we had a category 5 coolant blowout.

I think I can just Y these 3 hoses together here like Jim said.

Full heat is better than no heat on a drive where it's going to be down in the 20's.

This won't mess up anything in the heater box getting this hot will it?

Pm me about that pump if you are serious, I could run to the junkyard but I'm assuming the one you have works. I'll pay you whatever it's worth.

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**philly98540** · 12-15-2022, 03:02 PM

Been a while since I had one apart, but I believe that is where the mag driven impeller sits. You may be able to just remove the impeller and then JB weld the hell out of that cavity. Sand paper and clean first. Then re-assemble without the pump impeller in there. This way you have heat control still. Or can that whole cracked cup piece be taken away from the assembly? They cut a piece of flat metal or thick plastic and drill the four holes to match and then sandwich that in there instead? Been too long since I looked at this so I may be off base...

**seagreen323i** · 12-15-2022, 03:21 PM

I could definitely sandwich metal in there, if I need to turn down the heater though I'll just crack the windows and turn the fan off. I'd rather get a little warm then introduce contamination into the cooling system honestly.
I think I'm just going to Y the hoses together, cheap and easy solution. Don't really want to put the valve back together and gamble that whatever fix I cobble together works.

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**seagreen323i** · 12-15-2022, 06:07 PM

T fitting worked, have heat and no leaks. Heat isn't the greatest at idle but at about 1500rpm it gets hot and I'll be doing all highway driving so good there.

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**seagreen323i** · 12-17-2022, 07:36 PM

Made it home, 3/4 tee fitting can bypass a heater control valve in a pinch for future reference.

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**philly98540** · 12-17-2022, 08:33 PM

Did you roast yourself with heat at full on? I was thinking that it would get pretty toasty but windows can solve that. Wet weather might be a tough go as windows can’t be down much.

**seagreen323i** · 12-17-2022, 08:38 PM

Originally Posted by philly98540

Did you roast yourself with heat at full on? I was thinking that it would get pretty toasty but windows can solve that. Wet weather might be a tough go as windows can’t be down much.

Yep, sure did. The blend door wheel in the center vents actually did a really good job of controlling the temperature, I just had the ac compressor on to modulate between the two. Without that though it was VERY hot.

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