AK300 software installation help

[conn1978]

Hello all, I have an AK300 I bought 10 years ago and used once. I no longer have the original PC I used but have the software. I installed the software v1.32 on my laptop but when I open the program I get an error message "Could not set comm state, there may be one or more invalid communications parameters". The only button available on the program is "Firmware Update". I can enter "Settings" but get the same COMM error. Once in "Settings", I can click "Read ID" and it reads the ID - "Read ID....COM1 Connect MCU OK! Read ID.....---SUCCESS--- Close Com. I know this is an old tool but I'm hoping someone remembers how to set this up. Any help will be greatly appreciated!!!

[sterlin]

this post was meant as a reply to a different post, but everytime I delete this one it returns.

[sterlin]

I havent used the AK300, but I have the AK90+ and troubleshooting should be the same. Both AK's use the comm port to interface with eatchother, but since they plug into USB and not serial it needs a software bridge (USB to Serial) and thats where you can run into issues. You want to first see if you have any conflicts (sounds like a conflict) or device driver errors with the AK300 device. There are two freeware apps to help you with that:

1) USBView available from microsoft's website
or
2) USBDview available at: https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usb_devices_view.html
they both do pretty much the same so take your pick.

If you have a conflict because 2 devices trying to share the same port then go into windows device manager and select the AK300 and goto properties and change the comm port to one that is free. You might have to reboot in order for changes to take effect.

If you have a driver issue then check what version is installed (look at the properties of AK300 in the device manager). You might have to use the legacy version which you can get from here: https://ftdichip.com/drivers/ The legacy version is 2.08.24. Just about every single BMW diagnostic and programming apps were made to run on winXP so anything after that requires some tweaks to get it up and running.

hope that helps ya out.

[conn1978]

Thanks for the information. I wasn't sure anybody would have any information on this one. I am finally able to connect and all the programs are available. One of the issues was the comm port was all the way up at port 18 so I changed it to port 2. I learned it only scans the first 4 ports or maybe it's the first 8. Not absolutly sure. Even if that wasn't part of the issue, I figured it couldn't hurt. The main issue was the power supply. It wasn't supplying the full 12 volts so it would turn on but the AK300 must not have had enough power to communicate with the PC. I replaced the supply and all the programs are now available.
Now to new issues. Having a CAS 1, I soldered according to the info from the software with ribbon cable pins 1, 7, 8, 19, 24 and 26. I can connect via CAN (the circuit board that comes with the AK300) and can read the CAS flash, and I can change the odometer. I cannot connect with the BDN. Also I cannot read any key fobs. I've tried this with both software versions 1.32 and 1.5 with the same result. I barely recall from 10 years ago I had this same issue. I wonder if maybe there is just something wrong with the AK300 or perhaps the BDN adapter? The CAN adapter lights up when I use it but the BDN does not. In the SW v1.32 there is a pop up that says If you cannot read CAS to send him an email etc. so I'm taking a chance he still has the same email address and I sent him an email with my issues. It's a hotmail address and I didn't get a replying saying the email is bad so maybe I'll get lucky and he's still around. Lol!! There is a place to update both the AK300 firmware and the BDN firmware but I have no copies of any firmware to uodate. I wonder if maybe that's the issue with the BDN not working? If you have any ideas I will really appreciate the input.
You mentioned you use the AK90? Will that read and write CAS 1 keys? Maybe buying an AK90 is my solution. Hahaha!!!
Thanks again for responding to my post.

[sterlin]

If it worked once it should work again. I dont think it would just fail after one use. Does the new power supply have the same amps as original because that can make a difference. Since I never used AK300 before I tried looking for videos to familiarize myself with it, but there isnt much out there. I will try my best to help you tho. watch this video: https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x2c4gxc in the beginning of video it shows 1 setup and then 13 seconds later it shows another one. which one is the one you use or are you doing it differently? When you look at device manager there is no errors with the device? Did you select the right BDM module (there is 2 versions) You might want to see if you can take the plastic shell off the BDM connector and inspect the board for any blown resistors or any kind of damage. The old supply could have fried it seeing as how it didnt supply 12v One thing to think about is running the software from winXP as the software was made for that OS and ppl encounter weird issues with later version of windows. The AK90+ wont help you as it uses the EWS Module to program keys and not the CAS module.

[conn1978]

Thanks for the video. The power supply is equivalent to the old one. Thinking back to 10 years ago I didn't know as much as I do now but I believe I may have had the same issues I'm having now. The Device manager is good. I put together a Toughbook CF-19 with XP running only the SW v1.5. I even tried putting SW v1.32 on another XP machine and had the same success/failures as I did with SW v1.5. I can read the CAS with the CAN adapter, I can read and change the odometer, and when I do the option to apply 12v to the CAS, the light comes on and I can insert the key in and the key stays inserted but the BDM seems to be dead. When I select MCU/OBD and try the BDM option, it fails to read. When I go back and try the CAN option, it works fine. You mentioned there are two BDM's. I only have one. I inspected the BDM and even heated all the solder connections for the pins between boards and connectors just in case there were cold solder joints from sitting so long but that didn't help. I can see how maybe I have a bad BDM but I can't figure out why it won't read a key???

[conn1978]

I've searched too and found limited resources. My AK300 appears slightly different than the ones I've seen on line. Granted mine is at least 10 years old but on my device, in red letters, it says "AK300". The ones I see on line say "AK-300" or "AK-300+". Not sure if that make s a difference or not. Maybe it's a counterfeit or a counterfeit (hahaha)? I put some of the software I found on my server from 10 years ago on MEGA. You can download it here https://mega.nz/fm/Fd8SVQiB I tested it and it should be working. It has info and software for AK90, AK300, and R270. I've found that unless you successfully connect the AK300 to the computer, the software won't enable the features to work. I considered buying one of the newer AK300's but NO ONE has one in stock. They are ALL sold out.

[sterlin]

So the e65 has 2 different types of CAS 1 Modules. either e65 2002 or e65 2005-up.
There is two seperate wiring diagrams.
Was the 26 wire ribbon cable already soldered to the BDM adapter from the first time you used it? If it wasnt then you don't need to worry about that adapter.

[conn1978]

The CAS I have on the bench is from a 2003 745li. Once I figure this out, I will use it on a 2004 760li. The 26 wire ribbon cable has a 26 pin female connector on the end I plug into the BDM adapter. I soldered the other end of the 26 wire ribbon cable to the CAS using pins 1, 7, 8, 19, 24, and 26. I've never had success using the BDM connection, only the CAN connection.

[sterlin]

yeah. I was looking at some many pictures that I confused myself. hahaha. is the bench CAS your using the same MCU as the one in your car? The Motorola chip cant read using BDM.
the ak300 is a cloned r60 programmer. goto this link and scroll down to CAS1. You will see the pinouts for both versions: https://obd2express.blogspot.com/201...e-bmw-cas.html

[sterlin]

So 10 years ago when you first got the AK300, were you successful in programming a key? and was it on the 2004 760li? If it is the same car then do you remember soldering to the circuitboard?
There is also 2 different version boards for the CAS1 and if you goto this website: https://obd2express.blogspot.com/201...e-bmw-cas.html
it has both board revision's pinouts. you have to scroll down to get to it.

[conn1978]

No. The only thing I remember being successful with was reading the CAS. I had an 03 745. I bought a second CAS from ebay to practice on, but I gave up. I didn't know what I was doing anyways. Your link was very useful. I did a bunch of troubleshooting today. I think the BDM might be defective. I tested components on the board (resistors, diodes, caps, and transistors). I did some voltage checks and traced the 12 volts to the point where it hit a voltage regulator down to 5 volts. Everything seemed to check out. I can only deduct the IC's aren't doing what they're supposed to do. Maybe firmware /software issues or bad chip. Who knows? The CAN seems to be the only thing that works and it only does EEPROM. I need the BDM to also do FLASH according the the documentation I've read. Now I've done something to my test CAS and I can't read it with the CAN. The AK300 seems to still be connecting the my laptop but I think I killed the CAS.
So......Do you know if I can put a CAS from an 07 e65 in an 04 e65? According to RealOEM they are the same part number. I did some upgrades to my car...ASK / MMI facelift to install an Android radio/touch screen display (works great with the idrive), retrofitted an RDC module for TPMS, and working on Comfort access/Comfort go. This is the reason I'm trying to figure out the CAS/key programming. Supposedly the key for CA is different. I bought a couple keys (blank) that have a replaceable battery but I'm not sure if they will work with CA but if they are, I'd like to be able to program them to the car. The other reason for the CAS quest is with the facelift retrofit I have the oil level option on the MMI. My understanding is that is a DME controlled feature. I'm still trying to figure this out. May have some other things that need changed like sensors maybe. An article in E65club.com seemed to have some knowledge with that. If I end up doing the DME's too, it would probably benefit me to replace them with the CAS from the same car. I know it seems like a lot of extra time and money to get oil level reading to work but it's the challenge and the technical knowledge gained. Besides, from what I can tell, no one has done this yet or at least I haven't found anything on line about it. I think I'm going to have to find an alternative to my AK300 but it could be my bench CAS is the Motorola chip you mentioned earlier that can't be read by the BDM and maybe the CAS in my 04 can be? I'd like to get your input on some this.
Also, do you use ISTA+ / ISTA-P?

[conn1978]

I read back earlier where you said the ak300 is a cloned r60 programmer. Do you have any more information on that? I can't find anything and I can't find the AK300 available anywhere. Everyone is out of stock.

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I posted a lengthy reply before the r60 question but it didn't post. Does this forum sensor longer posts.

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Also in case you didn't check out the download it is software for AK90, AK300's, AK500's, and R270"s. just in case anybody else is looking for them. https://mega.nz/fm/Fd8SVQiB

[conn1978]

That lengthy post I mentioned showed up.

[sterlin]

I meant to correct myself. it is a clone of r260/r270.
I also wrote a long post that never showed up. it said it was under review because it was my first post, but then I immediately posted something else and it went through. Hopefully it resolves itself the more I post and get cred.

[conn1978]

The r270 is one of the software copies I have in that download I posted. I never knew what it was for. I'll have to check it out. Especially if it's simular to the AK300.

[sterlin]

The CAS should be interchangeable, but I would make sure the boards are the same just in case. The keyblanks you bought should work providing you have the right transponder chip and the remote electronics circuitboard uses the same frequency for transmission. It is most likely 315mhz for remote and one of these: ID46, PCF7942AT, PCF7936 for transponderchip. You ony need the AK300 to program the key. You can use a variety of apps for the rest of the programming.
I have a netbook that I installed XP with just about all the BMW software including INSTA+ is just both of these INSTA-D (used for diagnostics) and INSTA-P (used for programming). It takes a bit getting used to how those 2 programs work. I have to re-install everything because I put sp-daten files for an e70 I am working on and it wasn't the correct version and it caused alot of programs to fail. I tried different version sp-datens to no avail. At this point I think it is just easier to wipe everything clean and start fresh again.

[sterlin]

to be honest they all basically do the samething as far as using the same protocols to flash. It just comes down to the hardware used and frontend program. You can watch other videos for r260/r270, HiTAG2 to help you better understand what needs to be done with the AK300 to program your key. Pay attention to the software menus and what they are loading in and the steps they take with those other apps and apply it to AK300's GUI. You have the correct pinout for your particular cas board? You can check that From that one site I linked.

[conn1978]

I have a few versions of ISTA+ but usually use 4.32.15 and a few of ista-p but usually use 3.67. I've had some issues with ista-p since I've upgraded to newer modules as part of the ASK/MMI facelift. ISTA doesn't like that. Lol

[conn1978]

I have a CAS coming tomorrow from I think a 2006. Not sure if it is also a CAS1 or CAS2...? It's a CAS with factory CA. I'm hoping the fob that comes with it is also CA. I couldn't tell from the picture. I don't think the ones I bought are CA even though they have a removable battery.

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Does the r270 only do CAS4?

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Have you ever felt with DME's

[conn1978]

The main thing I'm trying to accomplish right now if having a comfort access remotes working for the comfort access retrofit I'm doing. I'm still not convinced the fobs are any different other than the CA fob having a removable battery and regular fob being recharged by the car.

[conn1978]

Oops typo--- Have you ever felt with DME modules and DME/CAS pairing?

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I swear typed dealt not felt. Lol

[sterlin]

does the test CAS have a working key that came with it? I would assume it did.
1)Make sure the battery for keyfob is charged before doing anything.
2)Make sure the wires soldered to the CAS are clean. no sloppy solder causing any shorting.
3)disconnect the BDM module from cable (if it is) and put it to the side.
4)You want to connect the CANBUS Board into the top middle slot of CAS module and then plug the other end into ak300.
5)plug the power supply into the AK300
6)plug ak300's usb cable into the computer.
You should hear XP playing that familiar soundbyte whenever a usb device gets insterted. Make sure no error notifications popup after plugging USB cable in.
7)Start the program and press the "CAS 1/2/3/4 KeyMaker" button (top right). If no errors popup then continue to next step.
8)Press the "Cas 12v on" button on bottom left. A little window will popup that says "Test Cas & Key" dont press anything.
9)Insert keyfob into Cas key slot and then wait for it to do its thing. I *think* the little popup window closes on its own and a new slightly bigger window opens up and then closes. If nothing happens then press the button for the little popup window and let it do its thing. It should now popup that slightly bigger window and dissapears.
10) press the top right button "MCU/OBD Programmer" and a new window popsup.
11) select CAN from the left and then hit the "Identify CAS" button on the right.
If it went well you should see a new window popup appear titled "Read CAS Version....." Let it do its thing and it will get replaced with a new popup window that says:
"You can read and write this CAS"
12) Hit the "OK" button
13) Select "CAN" from the leftside to open the tree. and select "CAS1" then "0K50E". It should be highlighted now in blue.
14) Press the "READ" button and when it is done a new popup window appears letting you save the binary image as a backup.
Name the file "TESTCAS1-Original.bin". You should now see alot of those fields filled in with info pertaining to CAS.
At this point you want to close the app and disconnect the power supply and unplug everything. post here if you were successful or not and we proceed to next step.

[conn1978]

It seems I'm having trouble posting. I responded a couple days ago but it did't show up. The CAS arrived, I connected and did as you instructed and everything went well. So far, so good.
What next?

[sterlin]

ok good, glad that worked. So just to not confuse you, what you just did was make a backup of your CAS's data. You can now load that bin file and clone a key without having to remove the CAS because you will only be writing to the blank key.
However, if you want to add another key in a different slot you will have to pull the cas out in order to write to it. Whenever you make changes like adding a seperate key you will want to make another backup of the CAS data and naming it something else.
it is always good practice to back up with each new change. it will save you headaches down the road should anything happen.

The next task is to make a backup of the CAS's firmware which i will post instructions shortly.

Question: so you have 2 CASs that you bought correct? the first one you said stopped working and you just got that second one that you made the backup for.

with that one that doesnt get recognized you should try and back up the data just like you did.



I also meant to ask you if you bought a 3rd party comfort access solution that works without needing the special door handles or if you bought those CA handles and a new/used "Passive GO" module? I couldnt find many kits for e65/66.

This one says it works with all E-series (I would double check with vendor) but doesnt come with CA handles because it doesnt need it. It just auto unlocks the doors as if you pressed the remote:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803973537014.html?

To be honest, the Passive Keyless Entry isnt secure and you can get your car easily stolen while your sleeping unless you keep your keys in a faraday box. Ppl can capture the signal from outside your place and replay it. or when youre in a parking lot.