E39 prelift m52b28 alternative for oem maf.

[kat1337]

Hello, I need an alternative for oem maf which in my case costs 350$+. I've heard that you could buy bosch, even vdo which was a supplier for oem and they worked great but those options are no more availiable. To be precise I mean 5wk9600 maf.

I've found some brands of mafs that look interesting
Hella [COLOR=var(--color-foreground-primary)]8ET009142061
Fispa 38.606
Bremi 30121

Does anyone know something about those mafs and could recommend something?

Of course if they're all bad I'm gonna choose the oe one or your other proposition[/COLOR]

[pleiades]

Hello, I need an alternative for oem maf which in my case costs 350$+. I've heard that you could buy bosch, even vdo which was a supplier for oem and they worked great but those options are no more availiable. To be precise I mean 5wk9600 maf.

I've found some brands of mafs that look interesting
Hella [COLOR=var(--color-foreground-primary)]8ET009142061
Fispa 38.606
Bremi 30121

Does anyone know something about those mafs and could recommend something?

Of course if they're all bad I'm gonna choose the oe one or your other proposition[/COLOR]

Well, way way back I purchased (and am still running) a new Siemens/VDO unit with the same part number for about one-third the BMW price. It was intended for a Hyundai Sonata (2001 V6 model). Are Hyundais of that vintage in Poland?

[sleuth255]

Hella is the OEM MAF for my 530i (M54B30) and it costs < $100. I've not had a problem with it either. I don't think its OEM for your M52 however. I wouldn't accept anything less than OEM for this part. I've had too many bad experiences on various cars....

[kat1337]

That's actually sad m52 not so far from m54. On ebay those hellas are popular. People wouldnt buy if it would suck..

So vdo is not availiable anywhere?

[ross1]

See post #2

[crdiscoverer]

See post #2

That won't work.

Early E39s come with a different MAF than latter years. This is NOT the Siemens that's easily replaceable with a Hyundai part.

The part# of the MAF the OP has (which is the same as mine) is probably this: 13621703275. There are Bremi, Siemens and VDO versions (all 3 brands are OE so they will all be good quality. If you see the Bremi for a good price, get that one). I have never seen a valid aftermarket replacement for those, Kat. If you need something even cheaper, you'd probably have more luck asking the E36 community since those were way more common there.

This is the old MAF in question:


This is the newer MAF for comparison:

[ross1]

I see, pre TU. I think used all the way back to M50s.
Plenty of aftermarket sources for the OE part.
OP, search the part #

[pleiades]

That won't work.

Uh-oh, you're right. Sorry kat, I have a '99 with the TU engine.

[crdiscoverer]

I see, pre TU. I think used all the way back to M50s.
Plenty of aftermarket sources for the OE part.
OP, search the part #

There are surprisingly few aftermarket alternatives for that one. You do have OE choices, but nothing like another car brand using the same part and charging way less for it (e.g. Hyundai). Outside of OE brands, I just wouldn't risk it given how a crappy MAF can leave you stranded.

[philly98540]

Bremi looking decent price at FCP. Not sure if they ship to Poland.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...SABEgIslPD_BwE

[BimmerBreaker]

Personally I'd find a used one from a car being parted out or a junkyard. They aren't a super common failure item

Also worth verifying the MAF is bad. A lot of "air" related codes may seem to indicate MAF but those types of codes more often than not end up being vacuum leaks or stuff of that nature

[kat1337]

I get all of you say bimmerbreaker I understand how air leaks works no need to explain,the thing is since I bought the car there is topran maf ����.

Answering to earlier posts
I've never see bremi in oem ��
I've already ordered hella one because of recommendation of a seller and I can reutrn it with 0% of loss so I'll test it and return if bad.

And bremi is availiable in Poland so dont worry.

I'll try first with hella

[crdiscoverer]

Bremi is everywhere in your car, just look around. Your original coils are almost surely made by Bremi, as one example. That manufacturer became less common as E39s evolved but in earlier ones (and E36s and so on) Bremi is commonplace and one of the best brands you can get.

[kat1337]

Hmmm... Im not lying i've never seen bremi in my car my coils are bosch

- - - Updated - - -

If hella will have bad readings I'll just return it and get bremi

[kat1337]

I'm thinking of something....
I have a theory that there's more compatible mafs than just 5wk9600 to my car.
I don't have any arguments for that but theoretically I could order multiple mafs from lets say vdo which are availiable for older bmw and visually inspect the inside components then just return the ones that are completely different. If I'd do that it would make huge savings for people in my case..
Average vdo maf for older bmw is +- 100$

[crdiscoverer]

If you are wiling to do the homework that's great. Just remember to report back here on your findings.

[kat1337]

Thats what im planning to do

[Mike WW]

There are surprisingly few aftermarket alternatives for that one. You do have OE choices, but nothing like another car brand using the same part and charging way less for it (e.g. Hyundai). Outside of OE brands, I just wouldn't risk it given how a crappy MAF can leave you stranded.

My experience is a bad MAF won't leave you stranded. Well, at least on the TU cars. Actually it will run better when it's bad if you unplug it. Again, on TUs when they go bad they shift very hard on A/T cars.

No telling how good, but Amazon, at least here in the US, has a ton of options, most of them probably crappy.

[sleuth255]

I had to graph mine out to tell that it was bad. Pretty easy process. Requires an OBD tool that can show MAF flow. I used BlueDriver which shows flow in grams per second

1. Plot the horizontal points along the bottom of the graph paper for: 1000, 1250, 1500, 1750, 2000,2250 rpm.
2. Mark increments of grams per second up the left side. To create the vertical scale, use the value you read at idle to determine the baseline value. Then mark each line above in equal increments.
3. Run the engine at each of the above-mentioned speeds and record the MAF sensor PID values on the graph.

Results for a good MAF should be a straight line.

[crdiscoverer]

My experience is a bad MAF won't leave you stranded. Well, at least on the TU cars. Actually it will run better when it's bad if you unplug it. Again, on TUs when they go bad they shift very hard on A/T cars.

No telling how good, but Amazon, at least here in the US, has a ton of options, most of them probably crappy.

Mine (non TU and manual) simply doesn't accelerate with the MAF unplugged. It bogs down. You can somewhat limp short distances but if you're somewhere far you're SOL. Not sure if that's just mine or all single VANOS M52s. I've driven TU and M54 E39s and they behave just as you said.

[kat1337]

I had to graph mine out to tell that it was bad. Pretty easy process. Requires an OBD tool that can show MAF flow. I used BlueDriver which shows flow in grams per second

1. Plot the horizontal points along the bottom of the graph paper for: 1000, 1250, 1500, 1750, 2000,2250 rpm.
2. Mark increments of grams per second up the left side. To create the vertical scale, use the value you read at idle to determine the baseline value. Then mark each line above in equal increments.
3. Run the engine at each of the above-mentioned speeds and record the MAF sensor PID values on the graph.

Results for a good MAF should be a straight line.

Woah thats actually very helpfull information... I could figure it out on my own but yeah thanks

[sleuth255]

link to the doc on this:

Microsoft Word - MAF Sensor Testing V1.docx

[kat1337]

Thank you