Amp Replacement & Sub Input Question (Predicament?)

[s8ilver]

Can't I wire the 2 ohm DVC sub in series to get to 4 ohms?

Yes, I said that.

I actually wired an old Audiobahn 1000W monster in series up to 4OHM to see if it was still good, and it vibrated my garage. Currently I'm pushing about 900-1000 RMS to an Eclipse Titanium 10" (SW9102). 750W capacity in theory, but folks ran 750 to each coil back in the day without breaking a sweat. I rarely turn the gain above 1/3 and it's more than plenty. I also run a 6.5" in an OE Coupe box. My whole design was based upon a good sounding stereo with the 10" removed for max cargo space when the need arose.

In my Roadster, it happened to come with the Integral Audio 8" box, so I run an 8" DVC 4OHM (wired to 2OHM) Alpine and run 500W to it. Again, rarely turn the gain up too much, so it's very happy. Good with top down; bliss with hardtop on. PO had installed some very good 6.5" components, and they're finally seeing their potential with the new amp.

I feel you. I can't live without my tunes!

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

[MRobster]

Yesterday I tackled replacing the footwell speakers. As you can see by the pic, the surrounds are completely gone. I will say that getting those kick panels off without breaking them was/is a PITA. Overall I estimated 1.5 hours and that's what it took me to do it. I used sound ordinance 5.25s (component system) so had to trim the mounting holes to be open-ended as others have done. Next step: install the amp including the crossovers for the sound ordinance speakers/tweeters. Then I get to enjoy taking off the door cards and installing the tweeters (and lubing the power window mechanisms).
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[MRobster]

Finished the project today. Here's what I did, what it cost, and how long it took.

- Replaced kick panel speakers w/ 5 1/4" sound ordinance component speakers. Getting those kick panels off was a PITA as I said before. Cost $85. Time 90 minutes.

- Planned on replacing the tweeters but I tried with the stock ones (also 4ohm) and they sound great - so time saved there.

- Replaced back mid-speakers with Kicker 4" units - easy once I figured out they can be accessed by popping off the face plates. Cost $60. Time 45 minutes (including cleaning the foam from the back of the grills and stuffing insulation in the holes to separate the magnets from the steel back there).

- Replaced 2ohm 6.5" Kicker sub with new 6.75" 4ohm kicker sub (if anyone needs a 2ohm version lmk). This took more time than I expected since I had to shave the sides of the speaker to make it fit. Ended up removing quite a bit but it looks good. Also bought cork gasket material and made a gasket. Finally, had to shave some off that plastic protrusion at the back of the box since the speaker back was hitting it. Cost $95. Time 1.5 hours at least (sigh).

- Removed the stock amp and sub amp, and installed a new five channel class D amplifier. Mounted the unit on a finished board and added foam backing to the board; this fit nicely in the indented area in the back of the trunk. That said, it does cause my trunk mat to stick up a bit in the back ... I may look into modifying the mat or developing a custom mat with a step in the back to cover the amp. Nice unit and runs cool. And was half price. Cost $250. Time 2.5 hours including splicing all the wires etc.

- Bought and installed a new VDO Continental head unit and wiring harness adaptor. Cost about $180. Time: 30 minutes.

- Discovered that the Continental does not have a preamp out for the sub, so bought and installed a passive line output converter. Cost $10. Time 30 minutes only because I soldered T-connectors for each lead. Someone here recommended buying a powered LOC, and now I know why. This passive unit is too weak. Ordered a powered unit today.

- Developed a graphical depiction of my wiring diagram (inputs and outputs) based on wiring diagram info online. This was very helpful and a lot more intuitive to use. Cost nothing, took me an hour or so. I've attached it here. Keep in mind this is for the newer HK system and that I used external crossovers for the fronts (woofers and tweeters).

I'm about $700 all-in at 6 - 7 hours of labor. And the only snafu was that I used the wrong pos/neg connections for the sub inside the enclosure. Otherwise all worked as planned.

The system sounds great but I really need more from the sub to be 100% satisfied. The new LOC should help.

Here are some pics. I plan to hide the wires to/from the amp via wire hose covers, but I didn't want to wait on that to share pics. Hope all of this is helpful to someone out there about to do the same!

wiring 1.JPGwiring 2.JPGimage3.jpegimage2.jpeg

[delvec]

Another Kicker sub Replacement. Kicker must love Z3 Owners!

Good work...Enjoy the sound.