Crank, No Start

[925JMB]

New to this forum stuff hopefully i'm posting this in the correct area.

My car is a 1997 bmw 328is, s50 swap from a 95' . Done by one of the previous owners.

My issue is that I currently have a crank and no start.

How it all started. I went to start my BMW to move it and it had a dead battery so I jumped it with my truck since my battery pack was dead. It started with the jump and I went inside to let it warm up. Came out and right when I got to it it stalled out randomly. I started it back up and went to park it. It didn't start. Crank, No start. I remembered hearing it rev up a little bit when I jumped it just figured it was from the truck.

First thing I noticed off the bat was there was no fuel pump prime so I checked all the fuses in the engine bay including the fuel pump one. (pulled each one out and checked them) They were all fine. Replaced the fuel pump relay since I had an extra one laying around and put in a new pump. Still nothing.

I then checked spark. Pulled out spark plug and ignition coil and used the screwdriver trick to see if there was any spark. No spark.

Checked and replaced main relay with a known working relay.

Did some research and figured I'd swap the CPS and TPS. Installed a new crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor, new throttle position sensor. Still nothing.

Tried a new ECU/DME and still nothing.

Checked EWS and removed the bypass from pin 1 and 3 and see if it was related to that and that just caused no crank and no nothing.

also installed new battery and checked/cleaned the battery ground to chassis and engine bay chassis to engine mount.

Invested in an obd1 scanner from schwaben.

Fault codes
35 - Thermoswitch in the passenger door FH motor has responded
1 - Fuse IB and TSH
5 - Terminal 15
32 - Relay for passenger's door FH does not pick up
3 - Fuse for front FHS
28 - Relay for drivers door FH does not pick up
19 - Pin Contact, passengers door-open circuit
21 - Pin Contact, boot lid-open circuit
2 - Fuse for ZV

Tried to do research on terminal 15 but cant find anything about it for an e36. Not too sure what this is.
There is a picture/diagram online saying theres a green relay under the driver side side of the dash but I can't find it. Just see the crash alarm relay and a blue one I cant remember the name of. Reading all different type of things about it being a heated seat relay, unloader relay, ignition switch relay or a pin on the ecu or the middle pin of the 3 used in the connectors that look similar to the ones on the crank and camshaft sensors or even a power supply for the ecu/dme. It's difficult to diagnose and trace down the issue when i'm getting all these different types of information with very little details online.

I got a relay tester online and tried testing the other relays under the hood on the drivers side in the fuse box and all but the ones I replaced are coming back as faulty? Hard to imagine I fried all of the relays at the same exact time but I guess it could be possible with a voltage surge from the truck battery being too big?

Any ideas of what it could be or what to check next? Thanks

[Eric93se]

Unlikely your truck fried anything, only if you picked a ground that sent the current through a component. For example if you connected the ground jumper wire to your DME (crazy).

Too bad you bought that scanner, for the e36 INPA is what you want (free in the z3 diagnostics sub forum). You need a laptop and a cable from eBay or Amazon and a round cable adapter.

Not sure about how the PO bypassed EWSii because it needs to be done in the software.

[Eric93se]

Bench testing a relay only requires a multimeter. Typically 4 terminals on a relay, two are for the coil which energizes the contacts inside. You energize the coil with 12v, you should hear a click. With the coil energized you use the multimeter to measure the contact resistance of the two other pins which should be less than 3 ohms (ideally this number would be zero but the leads and the meter have resistance).

To find which two terminals is the coil you measure the resistance of pairs of terminals, should read 200-400 ohms it varies from manufacturer. Also there may be a diagram that's poorly made on the side.

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Also requires two jumper wires with alligator clips.

[925JMB]

I appreciate the info. I jumped it from the battery in the trunk. If the scanner I bought doesn’t work, what are those fault codes that were scanned? Are those no help? Also I tried looking up the BMW K+DCAN cable needed for the e36 INPA but they all say that they’re for 1998’s and newer. The bmw body is originally a 97’ 328is and engine is from a 95’ M3.

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As for the PO bypassing the ews system im not 100% sure how he did it besides jumping pin 1 and 3 on the connector. The car worked and drove perfectly fine before this random crank no start.

[Eric93se]

Return your scanner and setup INPA.

No one is going to help you with those codes because no one uses that scanner.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/385249731433

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https://www.ebay.com/itm/275418085936

[925JMB]

Thank you for the links, ill update you when I receive it.

[Eric93se]

Do not use the disc that comes with the cable. Instructions and and DL links are here:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...z3+diagnostics