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Thread: window regulator stuck all the way down - cannot access one motor screw

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    98 M3 coupe 00 328 coupe

    window regulator stuck all the way down - cannot access one motor screw

    98 e36 m3 coupe
    Driver side window started doing the partial up/ down thang........removed regulator and motor.

    Power to motor and motor turns, moves 1/8" and stops; reverse switch and same.

    Problem is the regulator / motor is stuck in the position that the regulator blocks one of the 3 screws holding the motor in place. (trying to separate motor from regulator to check bushing / parts between motor and regulator.

    Any ideas on how to turn motor enough to move regulator out of the way?

    Thanks for any insights.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Remember that your time is valuable.

    I'm not sure I'm correctly envisioning your issue, but how about:

    1) remove the glass
    2) unbolt every regulator bolt, the window rail bolts, and whatever else you CAN reach.

    3) If, truly, there's something that still refuses to move to a position you can access it: Cut it - destroy it - and take it out in pieces.

    Sometimes there's just no way to follow the directions.

    Replace motor and regulator and "sliding pieces", spend tons of time adjusting it all, then glue the crap door panel pieces back together with epoxy, and pray you never have to take apart another E36 door.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  3. #3
    dworthy's Avatar
    dworthy is offline Wagon meister :) BMW Tech Expert
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    +1

    Classic signs of a window getting jammed on a E-36, most often it will be the plastic sliders.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  4. #4
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    Sorry - took a while to see your reply Chris - See you moved to the other side of the country......

    Almost retired so I'm becoming more comfortable with spending stupid amounts of time doing stupid repairs to the cars..hahaha

    Was able to drill the regulator arm right where the last bolt was and access it. Not in the Bentleys for sure.

    Turns out the whole issue with the window was more than likely the door switch - that damn little plastic part that gets worn.........fawk

    After cleaning up the rails, replacing the plastic sliders and lubing everything up it works like a champ. You may find it crazy, this is all for a drift car.........and here in the PNW some days it is kinda nice to have those windows up.

  5. #5
    dworthy's Avatar
    dworthy is offline Wagon meister :) BMW Tech Expert
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    Glad you were able to get it fixed, but yeah it does tend to rain a bit out there and at times on the track I am sure you want to stay dry.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Ah, winter in Portland....33 degrees and raining.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  7. #7
    dworthy's Avatar
    dworthy is offline Wagon meister :) BMW Tech Expert
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    Ah, winter in Portland....33 degrees and raining.
    I do remember a T-Shirt that as a kid I had that was like this:

    Oregon has 2 seasons
    Warm summer rain
    Cold winter rain
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  8. #8
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    Sep 2006
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    hiss by my window
    "Replace motor and regulator and "sliding pieces", spend tons of time adjusting it all, then glue the crap door panel pieces back together with epoxy, and pray you never have to take apart another E36 door."


    @ OP There are two plastic sliders, # 2 in the diagram, in the horizontal channel attached to the bottom of the glass. Chances are these are your problem. The regulator arms attach to them with a ball that is received into the(probably broken) plastic slider and a clip that allegedly holds the whole works together. The regulator arms can be pried/ popped out of the sliders once clips removed or slider broken and the glass raised. This I suspect will allow your regulator to operate.
    http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E36-Cabrio/USA/M3_3.2-S52/1997/browse/vehicle_trim/door_window_lifting_mechanism_front/

    As mentioned above the E36 regulators can be time consuming to adjust. If your trouble is the sliders try replacing only them and not messing with adjustments unless the glass is binding or not aligned correctly.
    Dirt in the felt channels and window tint film cause undue stress on these rather delicate parts. Clean the channels and if tint film cut it back so not riding in the channel.
    Last edited by ross1; 11-30-2022 at 12:58 PM.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Portland, OR
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    98 M3 coupe 00 328 coupe

    better explanation?

    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    "Replace motor and regulator and "sliding pieces", spend tons of time adjusting it all, then glue the crap door panel pieces back together with epoxy, and pray you never have to take apart another E36 door."


    @ OP There are two plastic sliders, # 2 in the diagram, in the horizontal channel attached to the bottom of the glass. Chances are these are your problem. The regulator arms attach to them with a ball that is received into the(probably broken) plastic slider and a clip that allegedly holds the whole works together. The regulator arms can be pried/ popped out of the sliders once clips removed or slider broken and the glass raised. This I suspect will allow your regulator to operate.
    http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E36-Cabrio/USA/M3_3.2-S52/1997/browse/vehicle_trim/door_window_lifting_mechanism_front/

    As mentioned above the E36 regulators can be time consuming to adjust. If your trouble is the sliders try replacing only them and not messing with adjustments unless the glass is binding or not aligned correctly.
    Dirt in the felt channels and window tint film cause undue stress on these rather delicate parts. Clean the channels and if tint film cut it back so not riding in the channel.
    Should have been more clear with the issue........photos are worth a thousand words. I have since made the repair and all works smoothly.

    The issue was the regulator was stuck just past the end of the sprocket* or arm teeth on the regulator. Evidently it had traveled too far. Motor would try but it could not move the regulator arm and the arm was blocking the last screw to separate the motor from the regulator. I drilled the arm directly above the screw and was able to remove it, moved the arm down and put it all back together.

    I have attached a photo showing where the hole was drilled. In hindsight it would have been better to take a photo with the regulator and motor out showing how the screw was blocked..........

    And as far as the door panel goes, yes all the plastic bits on the back were either loose or completely torn loose. Simple scuff of both surfaces with flapper disk, clean with acetone and glue and clamp with Locktite adhesive. Better than new - for now.

    Appreciate the insights and help from all - afraid I'm getting sucked in a little deeper as I just picked up a cherry 2000 328 coupe on a deal I could not pass up. Oh well, so much for my free time.

    e36 regulator.jpg
    98 m3 coupe
    00 328 coupe

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