Infamous Central Locking/Double Locking Problem

[MercenaryZX]

Hi all, this will be a long one and I apologize in advance. 1988 750il made in Feb 1988. So I am having problems with infamous double locking feature. Little background, when I bought my car a few weeks ago, it shows in the manual that regarding the driver lock, if you turn the key about 45 degrees clockwise it "regular locks", but if you turn the key 90 degrees clockwise it double locks. Well turning the key 45 degrees did absolutely nothing for me only turning it 90 degrees would lock the car so I assume it was double locking by default. The manual says to unlock turn the key about 45 degrees counter clockwise however that also did nothing for me and if I turned the key clockwise 90 degrees after the car was locked it would unlock all the doors (same procedure to double lock) which I thought strange but whatever as it was working and locking the car as intended lol. Well I started to have problems unlocking the car. The trunk and passenger door wouldn't work and after about 20 times I finally got the car unlocked from the driver's side. Thinking it was a weak battery, I changed it because even with a boost to the battery itself under the seat from a known good battery the car wouldn't start after a severe cold snap. I hoped it would fix the central locking problem too. Well it didn't. Strangely I tried from the trunk and it unlocked all the doors! But when I opened the driver's door immediately all the doors double locked while the driver's door was wide open. Knowing I would be trapped in the car and would have to climb out through the windows or sunroof if I got in the car and shut the door, I shut the door while I was outside the car and that was that. The trunk lock no longer did anything after that besides locking and unlocking only the trunk itself.

So none of the locks did anything, the driver's door emergency unlock method didn't work, thankfully the passenger's side emergency unlock method worked so I can climb in through the passenger seat into the drivers seat and start and drive the car and everything (till I run out of fuel, as the fuel cap is locked. Thankfully I still have half a tank and this is not my daily driver). So essentially I have passenger door unlocked, every other door is locked including the fuel cap door (though I heard the fuel door has no deadbolt so must be a central locking issue), car starts and runs and drives fine, battery is brand new. And I have all four windows down just in case (car is stored at my parent's garage).

So I have devised a plan on first how to un-deadbolt all the doors and then disable the double lock feature for good hopefully without having to remove every single door panel. From there I can see what the exact issue is with the central locking and if I can live with it without fixing it (as I'm lazy lol) so long as I can lock all the doors and unlock all the doors even manually as if it was a base model Geo Metro lol. Please correct me if I'm wrong or if there is some shortcut I can take.

Step 1) Unlock the driver's rear door to have access to the back seat by taking off the door panel from inside the car.
http://twrite.org/shogunnew/topmenu.html
Rear door actuator replacement http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/526643/

Step 2) Take off the rear left seat where your bum would sit to access the GM and RM modules
http://twrite.org/shogunnew/topmenu.html Removing the electric rear seats

Step 3) Jump pins 1 and 14 with a 12v battery/booster pack in the RM module to unlock the deadbolts
http://bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1263406

Step 4) Do the same thing with pins 1 and 13 to unlock everything that is no longer deadlocked (including fuel door)

Step 5) Once all doors can be opened and closed break of Pin 14 to permanently disable the deadlock feature with the particular RM module.
http://twrite.org/shogunnew/topmenu.html from E32FAN, A method to disable deadbolt function

Step 6) See the state of the central locking and try to resynch all the doors and go from there.

I also saw from Shogun a method of jacking up the car and hitting the metal where the RM module is located underneath the seat to generate 5gs to simulate an accident and have the car automatically unlock all the doors (and turn on the hazard lights). As I don't have any airbags to worry about deploying this might work, but the only thing I would be gaining from this is not having to open the rear driver's door panel from inside the car as I still will need to get to the RM module to permanently disable the deadlock feature anyway so not saving all that much. http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/79247

Please let me know if I am missing something or if there are any shortcuts.

Couple of more thing somewhat related: I wanted to see if a different key might help the locks. Unfortunately I have only one key (starts the car and opens the trunk perfectly fine). Can I go to a local hardware store or something and have them cut a simple ugly brass key from my original key that will function like the original? Going through the dealer I would have to pay $128 bucks because they have to order the key precut from Germany and wait like two weeks and well I'm cheap lol (still a good backup option if I lose all the keys as they cut it in Germany on a computer from the VIN so long as I show proof of ownership).
ALSO, when jumping pins 1 and 14 and pins 1 and 13 like in steps 3-4, do I need to disconnect the battery under the right rear seat when doing this?

I appreciate any help, cheers!

[shogun]

first of all buy a cheap blank keys from ebay , just search there for: BLANK KEY For BMW 3 5 7 SERIES E31 E32 E34 E36 , you get 2 for abt. $20 including shipping. Find a local hardware store to make them coded based on your original. Without a spare key is dangerous.

how to disable the E32 central locking deadbolt function.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ht=double+lock
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ht=double+lock
Rear door actuator replacement http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/526643/

more door lock repair links
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ht=door+unlock
http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/door...croswitch.html
http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/door...k_bracket.html
http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/dead...cked_door.html
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ht=door+unlock
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ht=door+unlock
check fusible links http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1268112/
inspect all door locks, re-grease them, replace all the small grommets as shown in link above and then the system will work.

Inspect the area under rear seat driver side under the GM and RM module if there is water/moisture, if the sunroof drain holes/hoses (in total 4, 2 in from and 2 in rear) are blocked, rain water could come into the interior.
Pull the GM and RM and spray all pins/contacts with contact cleaner/enhancer.
Make a GM reset:
SUBJECT: New General Modules (GM)

MODELS: 7 Series (E32), 5 Series (E34)
- Vehicles produced 9/91 and later
Situation: New general modules have been used in production since September 1991 in all E32 and E34 models. The software has been completely revised (details of these revisions are found in the attachment to this Service Information Bulletin). Part numbers have been changed to reflect these revisions, as listed below, as of September 1991. Model Part Number
E32 61 35 8 356 095,
E34-up to 61 35 8 356 095 9/91 production
E34-9/91 and later production 61 35 8 355 812
Note:
E34 vehicles produced 9/91 and later have different central locking system components from earlier E34 vehicles; therefore, P/N 61 35 8 355 812 is used only in E34 vehicles produced 9/91 and later, P/N 61 35 8 356 095 can be used in E34 vehicles produced prior to 9/91, and in all E32 vehicles. When the general module is connected to the vehicles electrical system, it will recognize (and store in memory) the vehicle configuration, such as:
- with/without power windows
- With/without power sunroof
- with/without wiper contact pressure control
- with/without headlight washers
Important Information
All general modules must be plugged in only after disconnecting the vehicle's battery. If the vehicle's battery is connected when the GM is installed, undefined signal contacts can cause an incorrect vehicle configuration to be stored, resulting in the impairment of
one or more of the above-mentioned systems. If one or more of the GM functions are impaired in this matter, the GM can be "cleared" by disconnecting the vehicle's battery for at least ten seconds.

GM Function Changes E32/E34 (Beginning with 9/91 Production)
- Repeat and Time interlock for headlight washers:
· Time interlock: 3 minutes
· Headlight washing at fifth windshield washing after time interlock.
- Intensive washing pump operating time reduced from 3 to 2 seconds
- Minimum interval for intermittent wiping is programmable down to 2 seconds (previously 3 seconds)
- Increased wiper contact pressure during windshield washing cycle is now also provided during dry wiping portion of the cycle (previously only during washer pump operation).
- Previously, the GM would react to opposing signals (eg., an unlock signal while trying to lock, as with a defective microswitch) by carrying out the first command, then the opposing command (e.g., locking, followed immediately by unlocking).
Repeating the first command then results in carrying out that command (e.g., try to lock again, and locking is now carried out).
This function ("Asynchronous Position") is omitted in the new GM for all E32 models and E34 models prior to 9/91 (P/N 61 35 8 356 095), and remains in the new GM for E34 models after 9/91 (P/N 61 35 8 355 812) only for central locking commands "lock" and "double-lock".
- After unlocking is performed due to crash sensor activation, the locking command is now reactivated by double-locking with the key from either the driver's or passenger's door.
- The "one-touch" operation of windows has been expanded to include all four windows in the opening direction. The driver's window still has "one-touch" operation in both opening and closing directions. Interruption of the "one-touch" feature of the driver's window in the closing direction is still accomplished by depressing any window switch (in any direction), or by depressing the sunroof switch in the "tilt" direction (provided the sunroof is not already in the "tilt" position). Interruption of the "one-touch" feature of the sunroof in the closing direction is still accomplished by depressing the sunroof switch (in any direction).
- The switch-off delay of the interior lights which occurs after entering the vehicle and closing the driver's door has been reduced from 20 seconds to 15 seconds.

[MercenaryZX]

Thanks for the info Shogun. I will take a look at the contact links of the RM module to see if they are corroded before I look for a newer one. I assume used 1991 RM module doesn't need coding to the car correct?

Also, if I jump pins 1 and 14 to unlock the deadbolts, assume I need to disconnect the battery to the BMW to avoid a voltage surge between the BMW battery and the booster pack correct?

[shogun]

RM does not need coding, Just relays inside.
Info from E32Fan: I have been pondering some easy ways to disable the E32 central locking deadbolt function.
Please print pages 5126-02 and 03. Deadbolting happens when the BLK wire (G) is at +12V while the BLU wire (I) is at GND.
With the RM on the table before you, chose one of these options:
1. Locate Pin 4 and break off the pin using needlenose pliers. (This prevents Relay 10 from ever closing again.)
2. Open the RM case and cut the circuit board trace going to Pin 4.
3. Locate Pin 14 and break off the pin using needlenose pliers. (This leaves the BLK deadbolt motor wires floating, unable to carry current ever again.)
4. Open the RM case and cut the circuit board trace going to Pin 14.
5. Open the RM case and locate Relay 10 and remove its armature using needlenose pliers. (This leaves the BLK deadbolt motor wires floating, unable to carry current ever again.)
6. Open the RM case and locate Relay 10 and insert a piece of insulating tape so that the Normally Open contact can never close again.
I prefer #1 or #3, because we can do it without opening the RM case, and we can easily verify that it has been done by glancing at our RM. BUT we need to be careful not to damage any other pins while removing pin 4 or 14. BUT be careful to identify the correct pin! (The wrong pins are 7 and 17 used by Drivers Window - see pg 5133-05).
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ht=double+lock
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ht=double+lock
Wiring diagrams are here http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e32/
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ght=deadlocked
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ght=deadlocked
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ght=deadlocked

there are more threads, just search for Keyword: deadlocked , user name : E32Fan

[E32FAN]

Also, if I jump pins 1 and 14 to unlock the deadbolts, assume I need to disconnect the battery to the BMW to avoid a voltage surge between the BMW battery and the booster pack correct?

If you remove your RM, then the car's battery can stay connected. Your door lock actuators are now floating, with no Ground reference.

If you supply booster pack + to X258 (BLK) pin 1 and - to X258 pin 14, then the deadlock motors will turn in the UNLOCKED direction.

If you supply booster pack - to pin 1 and + to pin 14, then the deadlock will turn in the LOCKED direction. You can play with this, and listen to the lock actuators moving. You can be playful with DEADLOCK DOOM!

The goal of course is to leave the motors in the open position, and then cut RM X258 (BLK) Pin 14 so the motors can never turn again!

[MercenaryZX]

Thank you for your input E32fan, but when I apply the 12v booster pack to pins 1 and 14, should I leave the battery under the rear seat connected or should I disconnect the ground from the right rear seat battery? Sorry I'm not very good with electrics/wiring and all that.

As well, if I just disconnect the RM module and not do anything else you mentioned the actuators will be "floating". Is there any way to get them out of the way of opening the door without having to take off the door panel? Or if I don't want to take off all the door panels, jumping pin 1 and 14 on the RM module is the only way?

[E32FAN]

The RM relays have the ability to turn the Deadlock motors CW or CCW. You can do that too, by connecting 12V to pins 1 and 14.
Imagine that you have a motor on your kitchen table. You can connect a battery to make the motor turn CW or CCW as you choose. Powering pins 1 and 14 is the same deal. There is no connection to the car battery under the rear seat. The actuator wiring is "floating" electrically.
You can insert finishing nails loosely into pins 1 and 14 of the BLK connector X258 after you remove the RM. This makes it easier to connect the booster pack leads.
There is no need to remove any door panels. The four lock actuators will turn CW or CCW just as you command, using 12V on pins 1 and 14.

[MercenaryZX]

Thanks E32FAN I understand how the RM works now. Quick question though, is there a way to take off the left rear power seat (it's the 750il model with power rear seats) without having to open the left (driver's side) rear door? Because that door is deadbolted lol. I know there is a way to partially remove the door panel from the inside to get that door open but the less work the better lol ��

Also I know Shogun said you can buy keys off eBay for pretty cheap like $10 each and get a key cutter to cut them, but would the plain simple brass keys that cost like $3 each that key cutters have regularly available on the shelf also work? You know the type of cheap key copy that you would get for '95 Civic that sort of thing.

[shogun]

the blank key must have this shape, I assume a house door key cutter does not have that regularly available, https://www.ebay.com/itm/15512814201...0AAOSwVcBjAgsx but you can ask.
The electric single rear seats are removed like this, you need enough space to pull out the rear corner = the semi-circle-shaped plastic trim between door seal and the side of the seat., then disconnect the wiring harness from the bottom of the seat belt receptacle, then remove the 13mm hex bolt holding the seat belt receptacle + hook to the side of the seat. This is the battery side, the other side works the same http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/62868 a bit tight, but maybe possible. You are not the first one with this problem. Before you start, move the seat forward as much as possible. Otherwise you do not have access to the large bolt which holds the Z-type bracket. I would remove the battery side seat first, as you can open that door so that you can do some exercise and know what is where.
Installing the rear seat again also needs some exercise as the seat has two long bars which have to go into two pipes of the rear sear back. Study the ETK diagrams http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E3.../browse/seats/
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...tery-in-an-E32
http://www.ow.no/index.php?option=co...d=26&Itemid=13
Electrical seats:
Drive the seat(s) all the way forward. Ignition has to be in position II for rear seats to operate.
Remove the buttons on the front sides of the seats (towards the door). Pull them straight out, or pry carefully with a big flat screwdriver. Remove the 2 screws that hold the plastic cover.
Remember to get the washer out with the first long black screw. Note the brass ones are short. Remove the plastic cover by pushing back the tabs by the buckle-fastener and pull up.
Now you should be able to see the 13mm bolt that holds the buckle-fastener. Adjust the seat forward or backwards as necessary to remove the bolt. Usually it's easily accessible in the fully forward position. The plastic cover can be removed, but it's not necessary. It's wedged between the door weatherstrip.
Let buckle hang, but un-clip the connector. This connector is used to drive the headrests up when someone is buckled in the seat. Working on the center front of the cushion, pull up the metal clip and pull up the seat cushions. Be careful and remember to un-clip the electrical connector underneath the cushion before you lift up the seat bottom. Otherwise you may break the connector clip under the seat.

another method used on E34, problem: E34 sedan with the following problem - rear door is locked shut. Won't open from the outside and won't open from the inside.Looks like the door lock mechanism is jammed. When he tries to pull up the lock release, it won't lift. So,how would you open the door? Normally I'd think to pull the door panel but with the door locked shut, that seems pretty hard.Thoughts?

Reply by Rainman aka Bill R.: you pull the top of the door panel back, ie unsnap it from the chrome trim by the glass, you're then able to pry it back far enough to get a long screwdriver or pry bar into the rear lower section where the door linkage connects to a pivot and then goes to the lock power actuator. You usually have to use the screwdriver and a hammer and break the plastic link at the doorlock power actuator, then you can pull the door lock up manually. On the e34 the door power actuator usually seizes up and won't move.

[E32FAN]

Thanks E32FAN I understand how the RM works now. Quick question though, is there a way to take off the left rear power seat (it's the 750il model with power rear seats) without having to open the left (driver's side) rear door? Because that door is deadbolted lol. I know there is a way to partially remove the door panel from the inside to get that door open but the less work the better lol 😋

Also I know Shogun said you can buy keys off eBay for pretty cheap like $10 each and get a key cutter to cut them, but would the plain simple brass keys that cost like $3 each that key cutters have regularly available on the shelf also work? You know the type of cheap key copy that you would get for '95 Civic that sort of thing.

What doors/windows are open on your car now?

[MercenaryZX]

Battery is brand new fully charged. All power windows can go up and down at will. Trunk can be opened. All doors are double locked except the passenger door which I unlocked through the emergency method (turning key 90 degrees clockwise) and is out of synch. Fuel cap locked. I have full access to the battery.

[E32FAN]

Battery is brand new fully charged. All power windows can go up and down at will. Trunk can be opened. All doors are double locked except the passenger door which I unlocked through the emergency method (turning key 90 degrees clockwise) and is out of synch. Fuel cap locked. I have full access to the battery.

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/858392

Here's what to do: Move the driver's seat fully forward so as to expose the B pillar trim. Remove this trim and locate the loom of wires that runs to the rear of the door connector X273. See pg 7100-12 Fig 2 and pg 8500-07 for the X273 pin positions.

In the loom there are 3 wires of the same diameter - BLU, WHT, BLK. Locate the BLK wire that goes to pin 11 of X273 and cut it a few inches from X273. Tape up the cut BLK wire that disappears under the floor. Strip off a bit of insulation from the cut BLK wire that goes to X273.

Now you will need a 12V source - a booster battery pack, or a battery charger, say. Measure the voltage across its leads to be sure that 12V is available - some chargers will not produce any voltage until they sense that a battery is connected with the proper polarity. You could even use jumpers from another car, but be certain the two chassis do not touch! You cannot use your own car's battery, because we need -12V rather than +12V.

Connect the POS battery lead to the car's chassis anywhere you can find bare metal. Now briefly touch the NEG battery wire to the bare BLK wire. This will Release the Deadlock pawl and you should be able to open the left rear door in the usual ways.

Tape up the BLK wire (Do NOT splice the 2 BLK wires back together!) and replace the B pillar trim.

(Repeat this job for X274 in the passenger side B pillar. ) Skip this if you pull the RM and power X258 pins 1 and 14.

BTW this works because the RM is grounding all 3 of the central locking motor wires - BLK, BLU, WHT. The BLK wire is not our friend. It's only function is to cause us woe.

Once your left rear door is open then you can lift the left rear seat half and remove the RM and then power X258 pins 1 and 14 to open the remaining 2 door deadlocks.

Hey, you invested in a prestige V12 motor car, for the Experience!

[MercenaryZX]

Thanks for the detailed write up! It's good to know there is another method. Although tbh I think partially opening the door panel to get your hand in there to unlock the door is a bit easier for me even if it means risking breaking some 35 year old brittle plastic
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/526643/

I think I have enough info to work with now to play around with the car when I'm not feeling too lazy haha (a cheap Cadillac DTS is taking up my energy at the moment lol). And indeed I bought this v12 beast for the experience! Running and driving for $1500!!! Can't loose on that deal.... right???!!! ������

[E32FAN]

You will have to do 3 doors - driver and 2 rears. Your left rear door will be open in 20 minutes. Then 30 min to lift the left rear seat and power pins 1 and 14.

[MercenaryZX]

Right then I shouldn't have to mess the panels of the driver's door and passenger's rear door after powering pins 1 and 14 ... unless there is another issue with the central locks and I want to replace the bracket/grease/replace the grommets as Shogun mentioned.

[MercenaryZX]

Hi guys, today I had some time and I started to take the driver's rear door panel off. Here are the instructions I am trying to follow the best I can.
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/526643/

After half destroying my door panel, I'm stuck with taking off the white middle clip (see first picture) that holds the middle of the panel to the door. How do I get it off?

Assuming I do disconnect the middle clip, what do I do actually do with the door actuator? (Second picture). Where/what do I move it to open the door that is double locked (assume I am five years old because with this kind of stuff I kind of am lol)? According to the instructions there are two 6mm bolts on the other side of the actuator, so I should loosen them on the door actuator and then what? Please help! I've come too far destroying half my door panel to give up now lol.

[shogun]

links which might help
http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/rear...or_handle.html
http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/dead...cked_door.html
http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/do...kMechanism.htm

text copied from deadlocked door problem
The door card is held by 11 white push-in clips (marked yellow in the image), 2 screws next to the door handle (marked green), a big white clip (marked red) and 5 black clips on top.To get to the screws (positions marked green) pull off the wood panels. To remove the white clips (positions marked yellow) you have to pry/pull the door card forward so that they snap out of place. You can also try cutting them off and getting some new ones from the dealer. They are quite cheap. Of course you do have to watch out you're not cutting anything else that is expensive. When you have the screws and the white clips undone in a normal situation you could pull the panel upward and take it off. Obviously now you can't. So I pried the upper 5 black clips loose with a small screw driver so I could pull off the panel. When pulling off (slightly upwards) the panel you have to use some force. I felt at multiple times that I was going to break the card, but lucky me I didn't. Remember the big white clip behind the armrest (marked as red) is still there and only comes off when you pull the panel upwards about 3 cm. To get to all these clips I removed parts off the door molding (it pulls out when it has the space), the cover for the drivers seat belt (slides downwards when you remove the two pop-in screws, the entry plate at the bottom (pulls up with 3 pop in clips). When the door panel is finally off and out of the car you can see the reason why. The servo will probably be slightly out of place. Slacked the bolts of the servo. They are on the back so you have to go by feel to get to them. They can be undone with socket 6. Lower the servo slightly and re-tighten it good so this won't happen again. When adjusting the servo you'll find that if the servo is too high it will keep the car deadlocked when unlocking, however if the servo is to low the door can't be opened with the door handle from the inside.

https://en.bmw-club.cz/manual_download.php?id=92

rear door card removal E34, same/similar on E32 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WsfMhz8075w
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-panel-removal
How To Remove BMW Door Trim E32 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wDPKggWZIZU
stuck-door-locks-on-a-bmw-e32-fun https://davintosh.com/index.php/2010...a-bmw-e32-fun/

door trim repair if you need https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFyZXXkb0Mo

Please use the reply button, NOT reply with quote!! Reply with quote only when necessary, otherwise that is confusing to always quote the last post.

[MercenaryZX]

Thanks so much Shogun. Particularly the second link helped me got off the door panel and the middle clip, it was more detailed than the previous resource I was using. Left rear door is open now. I'll get to the modules under the rear seat another day.

[MercenaryZX]

Hello again, I got a little stuck on this step. After two months not doing anything, I stopped being lazy and I undeadlocked and unlocked all my doors lol (twice actually, because when I resynched the passenger front door lock it deadbolted everything again).

Anyway I want to disable the deadbolt with Waehrik's relay method rather than snapping off pin 14 with tweezers as it is a little more "reversible" when I decide to sell the car to another owner.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-System-on-E32

But for the life of me I can't figure out how to get this plastic casing off the circuit board without breaking the thing in half!
20230228_004938.jpg

[shogun]

opening is probably the same as the LKM http://bmwe32.masscom.net/maxf_websi...lay_repair.htm it says: You open the case from the bottom - there are four barbs that overlap the bottom plate from the "can" body; pry them out of the way (some people report good use of old credit cards or similar stiff plastic sheets for this) then the boards slide out.

[MercenaryZX]

Thanks Shogun. I tried gentle prying including with a credit card and shaking it while prying the case apart but it's still tightly packed in. Afraid to use force with a screwdriver as I might accidently damage the PCB or short it with static electricity or something. I think I will just snap the pin off with tweezers, also limits the potential for damaging the board with static electricity as well.

[JimmieG]

I had an issue with the deadbolt on my 525 touring when camping in Big Bend. Well you could imagine right. It was when the weather got cold and I had not had the touring very long to sort out issues before we went on vacation. The fix was replacing the caps in the body module/central locking. I also have a issue with passenger front door microswitch and cannot lock it from that side it will lock and then unlock later.

[rags1986]

If you remove your RM, then the car's battery can stay connected. Your door lock actuators are now floating, with no Ground reference.

If you supply booster pack + to X258 (BLK) pin 1 and - to X258 pin 14, then the deadlock motors will turn in the UNLOCKED direction.

If you supply booster pack - to pin 1 and + to pin 14, then the deadlock will turn in the LOCKED direction. You can play with this, and listen to the lock actuators moving. You can be playful with DEADLOCK DOOM!

The goal of course is to leave the motors in the open position, and then cut RM X258 (BLK) Pin 14 so the motors can never turn again!

I am late to this discussion but I unfortunately have run into the same issue with my 1991 735i. Can anyone verify if the solutions that E32Fan and Shogun have mentioned in these threads will work on my car? The Vin number is WBAGB4311MDB68670--I am not sure of the manufacture date but figured it can be deciphered from the VIN number. Your assistance will be much appreciated.

[shogun]

yours is production date April 1991, solutions should also work on your car

[///M Blitz]

Hello all, I have a slightly different problem and can't find any solutions. So, I put my 1989 750il into long-term storage with the help of my son. I asked him to lock the car, while I worked on the rear passenger area to disconnect the battery ground. With the battery disconnected, I closed the door then realized he had double-bolted the doors. Now we can't get back in, as lifting the door handle and turning the key doesn't work when it's double-bolted.

Any suggestions or solutions would be greatly appreciated.