Door locking problems!

[Helloball]

I know this issue has been well covered in this forum but I can’t seem to find the cause of mine. Issue #1 My locks will unlock immediately after locking at drivers door with key or remote button. Issue #2 Now my passenger front lock doesn’t work electronically. It does work manually with button and key. All wires in trunk have been fixed and all other wires to door appear good. I tried to sync the locks no help and when using key in passenger lock all other doors lock electrically and stay locked. If it is my passenger frt actuator I couldn’t find any write ups on how to replace it as i hear it’s a bitch to do. Any experience with these issues?

[devid M50]

It's a problem with me and a short time ago I wrote a post about it and I couldn't fix it.
If you fix it please tell me
And if I fix it, I'll tell you


https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...cking-e34-1990

[Helloball]

Update: I pulled out the lock actuator and it works when I apply power. Only way to test is to turn on key and use driver door lock manually. Still unlocks immediately after i push down the button. Then stays locked after doing it a second time. A side note someone has had trouble with this before bc the actuator that I pulled out was vdo aftermarket unit. So someone has replaced this before as well as butchering the door panel. Further test the actuator works intermittently. I still can’t tell if it the actuator itself or if it’s a shorted wire.

[shogun]

When it unlocks immy, that is a function of the GM, because it noticed asynchronus positions in the lock system. The feedback to the GM from the various sensors is not correct. Could be also a microswitch http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/door...croswitch.html

[devid M50]

I took out the whole handle and checked the buttons above it I have 3 buttons and they are working fine and I checked the wires they are all working fine.
Well, today I will start a new project. Isolate the central lock I hope it works

[Helloball]

I wonder if a bad lock actuator would piss off the gm and make it unlock? I did notice when I removed the passenger frt lock actuator it worked sometimes and then sometimes it didn’t almost like there was a shorted wire. I took the actuator apart and fiddled with it for a bit and put it back together plugged it in and it worked regularly. IDK these car are like wives. I love them to death but sometimes i hate them when they get stupidly complicated. If it ends up being the driver door microswitch im screwed bc there not available anymore and no junk yard around me has any e34s in them. Shogun what exactly goes bad in the microswitch? My best bet is try to repair mine.

[shogun]

I never had a problem with such switch, in the link I gave you above, he mentions: This problem is caused by some broken pins on the micro switch which resides in the locking mechanism.
On E32 there are a lot of problems with broken wire looms between A-pillar and door, maybe same on E34 https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...9#post30843839

Problems with locking/unlocking I and all my wrenching buddies were broken grommets in the locking system links, they get old and brittle and fall out and then the distance between the linked parts is not correct. We changed them all and the lock system works again, see here a lot of grommets which you have to replace, 51211937233 and 52208238999
http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E3...rol_door_lock/
http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E3...or_lock_front/
http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E3...m_door_rear_2/

and what I also recommend is to remove the door locks, get out the old hardened grease and add new grease, here from E32 http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/do...kMechanism.htm no need to drill out the rivet, just use break cleaner and clean the mechanism and grease again.

[devid M50]

Welcome
I added this part and it works fine now
If it is suitable for you, I will tell you about it and how to do it

s-l300 (1).jpg

s-l300.jpg

[shogun]

tell us your secret, p/n, where located, and did you additionally install this relay or just replaced a defective one?

[devid M50]

Hello Shoken

111.png


This scheme I did and it works for me successfully.
If you have a better one, I will be very grateful to you.


* note
If the key is in the open position and the door is closed
You have to switch the wire from pin (5) to pin (7).
And the wire from pin (7) to pin (5)

[Tre0Tre34]

I know this issue has been well covered in this forum but I can’t seem to find the cause of mine. Issue #1 My locks will unlock immediately after locking at drivers door with key or remote button. Issue #2 Now my passenger front lock doesn’t work electronically. It does work manually with button and key. All wires in trunk have been fixed and all other wires to door appear good. I tried to sync the locks no help and when using key in passenger lock all other doors lock electrically and stay locked. If it is my passenger frt actuator I couldn’t find any write ups on how to replace it as i hear it’s a bitch to do. Any experience with these issues?

The front passenger lock actuator is no more difficult than the driver, and the rear actuators really aren't that bad either.

Now the rear door LATCH mechanisms are a pretty big pain in the ass. The "octopus" as I call it, must be removed all together and in a very specific way.

Have you disconnected the battery for a while to see if it might reset the system?

Somebody drilled my driver door lock a while back which activated the double locks on all doors. While attempting to fix the problem by jumping wires suggested by another e34 owner (didn't work), I disconnected the battery for a bit. After reconnecting, the passenger door which had been inoperable, started working again and allowed me to disengage the double locks on all doors.

Seems simple, but if you haven't tried it...