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Thread: Real aerodynamic front splitter

  1. #1
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    Real aerodynamic front splitter

    Part 1. Why

    Back in 2016 I started to look into our cars aerodynamics and the worst part was clearly the underbody which isn't flat at all and rear bumper that has big parachute type design.
    BTW. This post is going to be very very long so I try to cut as much as I can of the tldr; text wall.

    So fastforward to 2022 and cutting bumper and making NOT diffuser, but lets call it that, actually just a air outlet but with a real working wing instead of diffuser, but on top of that in the vicinity of ground effect. (Diffuser would need to be lower on the ground and have flat floor before it, and so on... again cutting short all the unnexxessary text here...)

    Few photos:








    Again, trying to make post as fast as possible, I would have a metric shit-ton of photos from making it, etc. But never the less, back to story.

    So I make the Diffuser, over 300 hours of 3D-printing, 8 layers of carbon in vacuum laminating etc...
    Main purpose was to effectively vent out all the air from underneat the car, and lessen notably the the rear low pressure zone / surface area. And that causing notable decrease in drag at speed. Fine that worked great, car cuts now very much more effortlessly through air. But what I was kind of wanting to have but did not really expect to feel was the downforce from such small device. Yes I have studied the field for years, but being interested at something and understanding theory does not always play out in real world. But it did. This was instantly recognizable without even remembering that I had just did it.
    My car has always been playful, having almost all at the back done in carbon and lithium battery there is just so little weight. But at wet roads on rainy day I have always been kind of on a toes of how badly the rear might kick out. So now driving on the wet on my third summer of use Pilot Super Sports which hardly had purchase on tarmac when new on soggy roads... Suddenly I had now this new, unshakeable sureness of rear not breaking traction what ever, but to my surprise front understeering at the normal driving speeds on very wet city streets. Okay, something needs to be done.

    On side trailing this topic even more before it has even started, I just mention...
    The rear "not a diffuser" did weight with all the hardware and mountings 1730grams aka little less than 4lbs.
    I have always hated the trunk hatch interior piece, it is heavy (1731grams, do you see where I am going with this lol ), unneccessarily so and keeps creaking maddeningly.
    So I did this:








    And here in ready waiting to be installed in my shabby trunk.

    Weighting only 270 grams aka less than away cutted parts of the rear bumper I was at small total loss of weight despite installing that aero device....

    Okay back to topic after derailing... Next post next.
    Last edited by Remotion; 11-08-2022 at 04:04 PM.

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  2. #2
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    Part 2. Never meet your heroes, Resolution and Remedy

    Back to topic. So the aero balance of the car had shifted. Sure the car was still very enjoyable and very fun to toss, but even at dry I could feel the bite at front not as tack sharp as before.
    Of course what ever downforce the back end was now doing was mild and moderate to say the least. I dont want to questimate because that goes wrong - but regardless front needed remedy.

    So I ordered very basic piece, often seen here where I live - a Rieger Infinity lip. Ordering it, getting it and so on, very cheap but since they only had picture of the product from the front, it is also not a real splitter, not at all, it is visual lip spoiler which has only simple visual purpose, and none of the real deal I was after.
    I contemplated installing the part and I just could not. I had just taken a massive chunk of air resistance out of the car and the change was really transformative. How could I now put in after removing parachute shape from the back - put back similar volume with void behind at the front of the car. It would just set me back to starting point of sad drag coefficient.

    Picture about the issue, Rieger Infinity lip.

    It is just a cast plastic piece. No aerodynamic thought gone in, and the fitting hardware were also not really thought out. This almost like inner tyre of bicycle shape, is thin ABS plastic and weights 1,1KG or about 2,35lbs. We will get back to numbers later in the post.

    So I again find my self startinga design project and ... trying to cut short here again... after printing day and night for 4 days I have finally from my crap home printer out this shape:




    A simple wing profile underneath and extractors on the corners to negate very much drag making front tyre wake. The same thing the original plastic pieces are there for underneath before the front tyres. Only now trying to manage air to that direction so that the oem pieces would work more efficiently. Never mind I will delete them later.



    Here printed in 8th interlocking pieces. Compare to Rieger piece that I posted before.




    I how ever don't have great printer so I just printed basic PLA, not suitable to car... So... continues in next post again.

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  3. #3
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    Part 3. Execution

    Introducing the absolute worst material I have ever worked with. Carbonfiber - Twaron aka black Aramid aka Kevlar. Same as the bodywork in WRC and rallycross cars.



    Every third cut the scissors needed to be sharpened. I tried to cut first time with brand new skissors without sharpening and I has half way through the 1 metre width in one hour. Then started sharpening them again every second minute literally.


    Naturally I got few creases and that took 2 weeks to work out. My sander left out blue lightning with loud bang etc...
    Almost there... but not quite:


    Then came the part of getting structural innards aka the print out.. that took 6 hours of extreme violence. But that at the end, 577 gramms, half of the Rieger one, yet really working product on many aspects.


    Now few photos installed:
    First photo, non edited:






    Continues in next post...

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  4. #4
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    Part 4. Findings and finessing

    This is maybe my favourite shot of the car in the almost 14 years.


    This monday evening the was the last sunset that the car saw, next 2 days raining constantly and I had to drive to my winter hibernation place 120km's away on flooded motorway in the torrential rain.
    The balance was now absolutely perfect. Car had with very worn tires more assurance and purchase in the rain than ever before, even compared to before in new sports tyres. Again I cant calculate how much it does but, I read a ton of material including this Nascar CFD/Windtunnel test whitepaper: http://ai2-s2-anansi-manual-pdfs.s3....1579574309.pdf

    Which reads following:

    "On the basis of the results obtained, following conclusions are made:
    1. Splitters play a significant role in addition of downforce to the vehicle body, especially at high speeds.
    2. The negative magnitude of coefficient of lift increases with increase in splitter overhang length.
    3. The coefficient of lift and downforce show similar trends of magnitude, with a substantial increase being observed up to a splitter overhang of 30 mm followed by a marginal increase up to 50 mm.
    4. A maximum downforce increase of 7.3% is observed for a splitter overhang of 50 mm at a travel velocity of 300 km/h."




    And that is why my splitter design comes slightly over 30mm outwards of the front.

    For the last 2 weeks I have finalized and finalized the design of this splitter and now it is ready for public.
    I made it about 15% more agressive height wise a few mm bigger othervise, and corrected few areas that needed to be rethink. After spending most of last 6 weeks with this and prototesting and using it and forcefully breaking the prints I am now sure that this is good when done with instructions.

    Final product:








    Coming to think that AC Schnitzer, Alpina, Hamann and such stopped designing parts to our cars 20 years a go, we who develop new parts in new light of knowledge, in aerodynamics, tech, composites and manufacturing methods, we are the future's manufacturers our selves.

    I will continue in one more post after a short break.
    Last edited by Remotion; 11-08-2022 at 04:54 PM.

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  5. #5
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    Because of the doubled shipping costs from Finland and me not having half decent nor half fast printer I cant at the time being print and send these to you. So the decision has been made to make sti-files available and I hope and trust you that the first customers wont give it free to the rest of the world.
    From your hehaviour and interest depends how much I will keep developing parts to the Z3 community in the future. Thank you for reading and here are the instructions.

    Front splitter will be available for purchase in modular 3D printable format. A lot of thought have gone to printability without any supports and in mass even on small printer.
    Print is meant to be printed in ABS or ASA plastic that are Acetone solvent reacting. Other plastics can be used too and glue instead of acetone.

    Here illustrated in my very cheap and small Creality CR-6 SE prinbed in CURA Slicer:


    Half of the Diffuser's 8 pieces can be fitted to normal print bed on upright orientation and for making secure parts you should slice it to use whole roll aka 1kg of ABS or ASA. Use about 10% infill and lots of lines on the outerwalls like in picture. Setups in these photos add up to exactly whole 1000g roll of ABS or ASA.

    You can print in two ways, either like here in upwards and no supports at all, makes clear prints which are very durable. Just make sure they have contact clue on print bed or perfect settings so that you dont loose prints on defects when they start to be high.


    Or you can print in pussy mode one by one and with supports:

    Choice is yours. After buying the model, total of 8 pieces in diffuser will cost you about 2 rolls of ABS or ASA aka 50$ or 50€ if not less.


    All eight pieces lock to each other in order.

    Test first fitment for effortless but tight linkage. After you are sure your prints can be pushed easily together all the way to the bottom, then use small brush dipped in acetone and wipe end of one of the two pieces you are putting together, immediately after push parts together, and acetone will melt parts together to each other.
    Keep the joins clamped together securely for few hours in room temp and you have one ready piece for install. There are 30 holes with 45 walls for countersunk screws so even if you are not using ABS or ASA and just simply glue the parts together, they will be very well secured into bumper with screws even if the glue gives up later.
    Fitting it up and best practices in securing it into place, That is up to each one's best decisions and how they want to attach it to their vehicle.

    I have about 6 weeks of total design and testing time in this. It is not the most agressive tuner lip out there but I wanted to make product that is rather on the understated and classy side, and looking OEM+, like it belongs to car from factory. And on top of that it works like real splitter is supposed to work, not just aesthetics.
    If anyone is interested lets continue talks on the posts below. Your turn, once again thanks for reading the massive text walls.

    Two most important things last:

    1. This is designed and tested on 6 cylinder wide body, according to BMW database, same bumper is in models of 2.8 and 3.0 but also 2.0 and 2.2i Z3 front bumpers aka 6 cylinder models. I know that this surely fits perfectly 2.8 and 3.0 models but according to bmw part number same front bumper is also in 2.2 and 2.0 so I quess those are also fitting match.
    Does not fit to M-models and fitment to narrow body front bumpers has not been desingned nor tested. So I have no idea how massive it would look or how badly it would fit. I am sorry but these are the condition. I have no way to test it. Risk is on you if you regardless want to purchase.
    2. Price for purchasing my design is: 100$ or 100€ when using paypal for friends and family. IF you do not use that and/or want a check for it, price is 125$ / 125€ for stl-files. Such are the Paypal fees nowadays and my time on making receipts.
    Depending on the filament you use and screws the total of ready splitter is around 150-160€/$ which is more than affordable for a great part.
    Last edited by Remotion; 11-08-2022 at 06:13 PM.

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  6. #6
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    Does the USA market only models 2.3 and 2.5 have same bumper as original 2.8's? Trying to figure out models that fit.

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  7. #7
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    Absolutely incredible work, as always. Roughly how large are the individual pieces? both in standing orientation and flat (not sure if it'll fit on my printer)

  8. #8
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    Thank you. Tallest point from print bed: 223,5mm.
    They are roughly 200mm plus the height of interlocking nipples, so arount 210-215.
    That one part is more because it is angled. IF your printer has max height of 225mm or more it should print these.


    Last edited by Remotion; 11-09-2022 at 09:57 PM.

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  9. #9
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    The work and the pictures alone really make me want to visit Finland.
    -Abel

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  10. #10
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    I'm always impressed when people have these sorts of skills and knowledge, and this is absolutely no exception - great work, and making it from multiple parts that just fit together is just brilliant!

  11. #11
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    Thanks for comments. I wont even go to politics that happen in our country. So lets talk weather it is very common to talk about it here.
    Well it is horribly dull here, sun barely goes up even on southern parts and most days this time of year are cloudy and rainy so brightest hours are like inside concrete mixer, and rest 20 hours of the day are pitch black.
    2 next months are same but just way colder and even more miserable.
    Lapland in March-April is pretty good visit, or midsummer generally.

    I question if this approach of modularity and all the effort has any sanity. So far in first 30'ish hours nobody has bought.
    But it certainly did correct aero balance in my car. And I am happy that I did not put that Rieger lip onto car, which is back there behind my back in walk in closet.
    I do design around the clock basically at the moment, it is my escapism from making bigger but harder decisions in life. Nothing to envy.

    But I hope people will start to buy and create this, it would of course fuel my design rampage to even next Z3 projects. Also I would buy better new printer, which might make it possible to deliver ready printed puzzle parts to customers in future.

    Few more photos from the same last autumn photoset.













    Trunk hatch piece installed:


    Diffuser Wing defying gravity: (there is method to do these but it would be over 1000€ price tag, so I think no reason to offer for sale)










    Keyboard for scale:
    Last edited by Remotion; 11-10-2022 at 08:44 AM.

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  12. #12
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    It all seems like very good work! Can you share any details about the rocker panels? Are they wrapped in CF or did you make a mold?

    Thanks

  13. #13
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    Molded completely and made from scratch then in carbon fiber. They are only parts with one backing layer of glass fiber, that is for galvanic separation from metal body of the car. Only about 50-60% weight drop compared to original steelies. This is not really worth doing because of little weight saving compared to work. All the other parts I have done usually save between 1:7 and 1:10 in weight compared to stock parts they replace. Trunk floor has been the best in over 1:10th of the floor of the original, while being exact same shape and height. I have put 120kg of outdoor concrete tiles on it and there were no problems driving on bumpy road. I would not do that again though. Carbon is very slippery, and all that concrete mass was sliding from side to side of the trunk even from slightest of bends on the motorway.
    I had bath towels between. And ofcourse the lithium battery was extremely good in weight, also over 1:10 in ratio.

    Basicly anything that can be made in sandwitch with lightweight corecell and carbon both sides will be lightest parts in 1:10 region. Other parts that are just carbon without corecell are about 1:7 to 1:9.
    Last edited by Remotion; 11-10-2022 at 09:16 AM.

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  14. #14
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    I'll be making an order in the next month or so Currently about half of my tiny apartment is full of car parts (wheels, speakers and amp, brake lines, sensors, etc) so I feel like I should get those finished up first before starting something new lol

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by dantheman7913 View Post
    I'll be making an order in the next month or so Currently about half of my tiny apartment is full of car parts (wheels, speakers and amp, brake lines, sensors, etc) so I feel like I should get those finished up first before starting something new lol
    I know the feeling 1000%. I live in 55m2 small apartment and I don't have space which would not have BMW parts waiting. 4 machined aluminum caps of those Z3/M coupe RSM access hatch things have lived on my livingroom dining table for 6 months soon. Friend was supposed to machine the mounting frames, which he did, but screw holes he still have not done, nor the locking rings. I soon have to go get them and find new machinist. Brake cooling / ramair ducts live in cupboard. hallway has usually oil / brake fluid canisters, but at the moment it has various "unneccessary" exhaust parts and rear brake pads. Bedroom is my studio / home office and half of walk in closet's interior is BMW parts.
    Sauna would be only place without, but there on main stage is sitting 3D printer, so I dont use sauna at home ever.

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  16. #16
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    Hah, oh yeah, I'm not political at all either. But you all have this one young lady causing a lot of stirrings.

    I'm fascinated with the deep north, so I would be there for the views.


    Anyways, very nice work. I think a replacement roof panel like M3/M4/M2CS would be a great idea for Z3 coupes.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Remotion View Post
    Thanks for comments. I wont even go to politics that happen in our country. So lets talk weather it is very common to talk about it here.
    Seems to be the one thing everyone talks about, that no one can control. I'd vote for some extra snow if it was on my ballot.
    Nathan in Denver

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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328 Power 04 View Post
    Hah, oh yeah, I'm not political at all either. But you all have this one young lady causing a lot of stirrings.
    Okay then a politics rant, please everyone else skip this text:

    All our ministers are woman or gay, not working to serve finland but they have been bought by globalists. They have given all our money up for free to other EU countries, on top of that we have absolutely horrible imigration policy and we are following all mistakes made in Sweden. By 2040 there will be less finns than ****lians and syrians in our country. Our national debt has more than doubled over last year because our young ladies take debt, and then give that money away to other countries immediately after. Latest move this week was to give all our forrests to EU in biggest climate hoax ever. Finland's landmass is 99,9% forest and lakes. On top of that worst case skenario of Covid-exploitation where we had no human rights for 2 years. Our politics are entirely bought by WEF agenda, nothing serves anymore us Finns. We are going towards destruction and digicommunism, the country will be destroyed in next 20 years unrepairably bad. Course has been already set and decisions made, now we just can look the destruction and dominoes falling.

    Anyways, very nice work. I think a replacement roof panel like M3/M4/M2CS would be a great idea for Z3 coupes.
    Funny that you mention since I looked up extensively on that last night. There were incentive to get that done back in 2010, last post was from 2013.
    Roofpanel in non-moonroof car is 8,5kg, in moonroofcar it is 2 panels and little bit less. I dont have space nor equipment to do such big and surface faultless pieces as roofpanel needs to be.
    I do all the carbon work at our cottage at small hut that I built.

    I'm fascinated with the deep north, so I would be there for the views.
    That is the best reason for visit. we have literally thousands of lakes all over. Deep north is rural, much worth visit, also highly suggesting driving through Norway, that country is epic. Entirely different landscape.
    Also skiing will be fun, because at north sun wont raise at all at the mid winter, but when you go relatively high up on mountain then you might see sun or at least very vivid colored skies. Reindeers need to be petted too, and Ice castles are worth seeing. On midsummer it is opposite of winter and sun wont set at all at north. Sunshine and days just continue without night. At the middle of the summer and middle of Finland also lies biggest BMW festival in our country with about 1000 BMW's lots of tyre smoke and drinking with friens, that is on a runway next to sand beach. On the Beach sunsets for 2 hours on the horizon over sea, but there wont become night, it is instantly followed by another 2 hour long sunrise. Sea is also very shallow there so you can walk a mile out from the water line on the sea, yet there might be only waist deep water.
    Last edited by Remotion; 11-10-2022 at 12:50 PM.

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  19. #19
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    A few questions about the rear diffuser:
    (1) Can you change the AoA on them? They appear horizontal
    (2) Can the diffuser section be extended further underneath the car? I plan to ditch the spare and would like that entire area filled with a diffuser, especially if AoA can be adjusted.
    (3) Cutting the bumper to fit this, is there a factory line on the back of the bumper or was that all 'free-hand'?

    Thanks, love the products you've designed. I think we have similar mindsets when it comes to modifying so I will happily send you more and more money lol

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2mAn View Post
    A few questions about the rear diffuser:
    (1) Can you change the AoA on them? They appear horizontal
    (2) Can the diffuser section be extended further underneath the car? I plan to ditch the spare and would like that entire area filled with a diffuser, especially if AoA can be adjusted.
    (3) Cutting the bumper to fit this, is there a factory line on the back of the bumper or was that all 'free-hand'?

    Thanks, love the products you've designed. I think we have similar mindsets when it comes to modifying so I will happily send you more and more money lol
    That sounds great plan!

    1) AoA is 7 on the wing end, note the underside of the carbon "diffuser" part has also printed underside profile of a wing too, so in that sense it is 1 element. The carbonpart its self has curvature on 2 axis.
    7 is consider good and safe working AoA, giving about 2 freedom of suspension throw to 9 which starts to be on the verge of air separation on the underside.


    2) Why no diffuser: I had for years flat cover plate for the sparetyre area, so long actually that carbon had corroded acid proof stainless bolts cut in half. There is only one user case for real diffuser in our cars. That is totally flat floor paneling all the way and then diffuser with long side strokes. It wont work without flat floor before it. And exhaust is a bit problematic. You need either side exit exhaust or well shielded and ventilated exhaust above the diffuser, coming through where licence plate is. If yours is racecar, please do it. If street car, maybe another choise to be made:

    Instead: idea is to vent as easily as possible all the various shaped area under neath the car, and also the turbulent tyre wake from rear tyres. That is why it is so short. It would look better longer but not work as good. There are no wing on the sides, but seem to work great in the middle.

    3) I scanned the bumper first. Then I did sticker with various depth cut lines. Then I scanned the bumper with safe cut made. Then I did by printing entirely different design, no carbon all printed. Glued that together. Was ridiculed by friends that it was too marginal, too save and lame looking. Had about 80 hours in that design.. Complely throw that into trash and started a new design, put 40 hours into that, throw that too into trash. Way too close to exhaust, way too miniscule still.
    Started third time from nothing, would now go to the biggest line I had in the sticker and use carbon for the biggest outer part and not mount at all to the bumper like earlier, but instead to the aluminium carrier (which of was once started to be done in carbon by other guy I paid, but he never finished). then at fitting stage I cut it 4mm more to the most wide cutline and then fitment was perfect.

    Sticker:


    First design.
    Printed and fitted:

    Into trash

    Second design that was thrown into trash:




    I Printed only parts of this many times, There was kind of a lip around the bumper and it was biting to the bumper plastic itself, very hard to get right...coutless hours used for nothing.
    It was too close for the bumper, it was bad way to mount it and I knew but I kept too long onto it before I killed my darling so to speak.

    Final and now produced, note the second wing profile's underside at the carbon surface.
    The angle on the wing is not so easy to see as the ends of the vertical fins are also profiled.

    Last edited by Remotion; 11-10-2022 at 03:18 PM.

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  21. #21
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    Propably the front splitter stuff starts to be hidden under all the other stuff, so lets recap shortly on front splitter:

    Short recap:
    - 8 part modular 3D printable in either ABS or ASA
    - ABS or ASA so needs to be enclosed printer. Put big cardboard box on top of Prusa and you are making perfect parts.
    - longest part in print is 223,5mm. If your printer can do higher than that, you are safe
    - interlocks, join parts by melting them together with acetone, simplest way: use nail polish remover
    - price: 100€ / 100$ / 100 when using paypal friends & family. 125 if not using friends & family
    - my paypal: djremotion[AT]hotmail.com
    - comment your email with payment, where to send download link after payment.
    - money goes to future Z3 product development and getting me 3D printer that is able to print ASA-parts for you. thanks!

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  22. #22
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    Bumping because I sold one set of diffuser 3D-print files just. These are available if someone feels that it is what they need and want.

    Mine has worked flawlessly for 1,5 driving seasons.

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  23. #23
    Join Date
    May 2022
    Location
    Charlotte NC
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    99 2.8 Coupe
    Quote Originally Posted by Remotion View Post
    Bumping because I sold one set of diffuser 3D-print files just. These are available if someone feels that it is what they need and want.

    Mine has worked flawlessly for 1,5 driving seasons.
    Erik

    I'll get a 3-D file for the front pieces. Check PMs!

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    1,165
    My Cars
    Z3 Coupe individual
    I sold 2 pieces lately and with another one of those I have been closely following the printing process. And based on this good critic I have redesigned the print files.

    So Parts have no longer integrated tabs, instead only holes and you will print connecting tabs separately. Tab has 0,22mm of smaller diameter than the holes, and 0,4mm less height. So it should be snug but easy fit, but if needed you can scale the tab file to slightly smaller or bigger and it will still also fit heightwise inside the joints.
    Now printers that have 225mm or more printing height can do these. There is only one tab file and you will print 28 copies of it, you can easily do them all at the same time.
    Print everything in height direction - upwards from print bed. This will negate all the usual warping risk and will provide smoothest cleanest lines on the part and most dimensional accuracy.
    You should always print in ASA or at least ABS, and when attaching use acetone in the seams to make them 100% bonded together.





    Part is visually still just the same and same working principles.




    You can also of course use it just as a mold makin part, then PLA will be good enough and do yourself lightweight and functional Carbonfiber or Carbon/Twaron parts like I did.
    Here from below in horrible cellphone flashlighted image, but you get the idea. Mine was bit over 500grams (1.1lbs) in weight without screws:




    Price is same 100€ with Paypal when using Friends & Family option. I will send you download link to ZIP-file containing all the STL:s, right after payment.
    Just send me DM here or Paypal me directly at: djremotion(at)hotmail.com
    Last edited by Remotion; 06-19-2024 at 09:27 AM.

    Z3 & E36 RamAir systems, send private message for more information.

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2024
    Location
    california
    Posts
    62
    My Cars
    1998 bmw z3
    Quote Originally Posted by Remotion View Post
    Part 1. Why

    Back in 2016 I started to look into our cars aerodynamics and the worst part was clearly the underbody which isn't flat at all and rear bumper that has big parachute type design.
    BTW. This post is going to be very very long so I try to cut as much as I can of the tldr; text wall.

    So fastforward to 2022 and cutting bumper and making NOT diffuser, but lets call it that, actually just a air outlet but with a real working wing instead of diffuser, but on top of that in the vicinity of ground effect. (Diffuser would need to be lower on the ground and have flat floor before it, and so on... again cutting short all the unnexxessary text here...)

    Few photos:








    Again, trying to make post as fast as possible, I would have a metric shit-ton of photos from making it, etc. But never the less, back to story.

    So I make the Diffuser, over 300 hours of 3D-printing, 8 layers of carbon in vacuum laminating etc...
    Main purpose was to effectively vent out all the air from underneat the car, and lessen notably the the rear low pressure zone / surface area. And that causing notable decrease in drag at speed. Fine that worked great, car cuts now very much more effortlessly through air. But what I was kind of wanting to have but did not really expect to feel was the downforce from such small device. Yes I have studied the field for years, but being interested at something and understanding theory does not always play out in real world. But it did. This was instantly recognizable without even remembering that I had just did it.
    My car has always been playful, having almost all at the back done in carbon and lithium battery there is just so little weight. But at wet roads on rainy day I have always been kind of on a toes of how badly the rear might kick out. So now driving on the wet on my third summer of use Pilot Super Sports which hardly had purchase on tarmac when new on soggy roads... Suddenly I had now this new, unshakeable sureness of rear not breaking traction what ever, but to my surprise front understeering at the normal driving speeds on very wet city streets. Okay, something needs to be done.

    On side trailing this topic even more before it has even started, I just mention...
    The rear "not a diffuser" did weight with all the hardware and mountings 1730grams aka little less than 4lbs.
    I have always hated the trunk hatch interior piece, it is heavy (1731grams, do you see where I am going with this lol ), unneccessarily so and keeps creaking maddeningly.
    So I did this:








    And here in ready waiting to be installed in my shabby trunk.

    Weighting only 270 grams aka less than away cutted parts of the rear bumper I was at small total loss of weight despite installing that aero device....

    Okay back to topic after derailing... Next post next.
    How bout u make this into a company, and we all invest on it? Im 100% sure that we all want those parts. Like yesterday.

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