Hi
New to the forum.
I have a X3 with 110,000 miles. It has the N52T engine. The car all of the sudden stopped starting. There is no spark at the plugs. I checked and the coils have power.
Scanned the car using my Autel scanner and pulled the following codes.
134B02 Valvetronic, servomotor, supply voltage: Short circuit to earth Intermittent 133902 DME, internal fault, Valvetronic: Undervoltage detected Intermittent 130204 VANOS solenoid valve, exhaust, activation: open circuit Permanent 133501 Valvetronic servomotor: Overload current detected Intermittent 130E01 Crankshaft - inlet camshaft, synchronization: camshaft signal outside limit value Intermittent 133B08 Valvetronic system: No adjustment possible Intermittent ÿÿÿÿ D50420 EPS, FlexRay: Communications fault Intermittent ÿÿÿÿ 48010F DTC button, open circuit Permanent D014A1 EPS interface (actual position EPS, 51.0.2): Signal invalid Permanent ÿÿÿÿ 930A1C Seat occupancy detection, front passenger: Malfunction Permanent ÿÿÿÿ 30095 30095 Power window, passenger's door: no initialization Permanent 800F28 High beam headlight, left, faulty Permanent 800F29 High beam headlight, right, faulty Permanent 800F2E 800F2E Low-beam headlight, left, faulty or reignition for XENON failed Permanent 800F2F Right low-beam headlight faulty or re-ignition for XENON failed Permanent 800F40 Direction indicator, front left, faulty Permanent 800F41 Direction indicator, front right, faulty Permanent 800F57 Brake light, right, faulty Permanent 800F7A Reversing light, left, faulty Permanent 800F7B Reversing light, right, faulty Intermittent 800F86 Daytime driving light / side light, left, faulty Permanent 800F87 Daytime driving light / side light, right, faulty Permanent ÿÿÿÿ 801C20 ZGM: central fault memory full - no control-unit fault Intermittent.
Can anyone help? I am thinking the Crankshaft sensor might be bad but i cannot find a wiring diagram for the car to check it.
Thanks
If the tach needle doesn’t move to ~200 rpm and sit there while cranking the engine, it’s probably the CkPS. A scan tool will show you a more precise tach signal (which is derived from the CkPS).
If those codes are all new, you also have a grounding issue. Replace the exhaust and engine block ground cables; don’t visually inspect, just replace. I use insulated 4ga cable for a lawn tractor. I also recommended adding another from the head to the chassis. If those grounds fail, the circuit attempts to ground through other places, like lights, sensors, etc.
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Last edited by dukedkt442; 10-27-2022 at 05:52 AM.
Hi!
Thank you for writing back. I checked the car and the RPM's needle does not move. I also checked the RPM's with the scanner and the value is 0.00. I suspected that the CkPS was the issue but want to be sure. The CKPS is under the intake manifold and from what I read it has to come off to gain access to the CkPS. I looked all over, and I cannot see it. Do I really have to take the intake manifold off? In some videos they claim that you can get to it without taking it off. Do you know if this is possible?
Thank you for suggesting the ground cables. I will look at doing this after I get the car started. What made you realize I have a grounding issue? Yes. The codes are new.
Thanks,
On the E83 N52, it is possible to change the CkPS from below in about a half hour; your chassis I’m not sure, but I wouldn’t bet against it. The subframe reinforcement plate must come off and then use E8 e-torx to remove the bolt. The bolt is one time use Aluminum so you’ll need to get a new one. Work on a cold engine or you risk snapping the heat-softened Al bolt before final torque is reached, requiring pulling the intake and possibly drilling/tapping the engine block. Been there done that.
You have such a plethora of sometimes unrelated codes, that is almost certain a voltage issue (either under or over voltage), more often under than over. Do check alternator output against spec just to rule out over voltage; I think yours has a variable alternator, that may be more involved than a simple multimeter test, but I’m sure ISTA would have a test program for that.
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I ended up replacing the CKPs and it still does not start. I am not familiar with ISTA and how it works. What cables do I need to use to communicate with to the car?
Thanks,
Replaced with what sensor? Wiring intact? Do you at least now have an RPM signal? From above or below? I replaced a sensor in August, and immediately received no signal; the connection unplugged, so verify that it is connected.
I forget off hand what the voltage from the CkPS should read, but it is greater than 0. You can probe the wires with a multimeter to at least see if there's a voltage signal while cranking.
I replaced the CkPS with one from Autozone. After replacing the CkPS the RPM needle starts registering once in a while then it wants to start but it does not. The needle does not move at all and once in a while it jumps up. When it jumps, it sounds like it wants to start. Is it supposed to register 200 RPM and stay there while the engine is rotating? I am now sure how it supposed to work. I am wondering if the wiring has a bad connection.
Do you have a wiring diagram, or know where I can get one? If I had a wiring diagram I could start probing wires. I went to AlldataDYI and service manual is not available. I am not sure where to find one. I am hoping ISTA can help with wiring diagram. I do not know what cables to use. Is it the K+DCAN or the Enet cable?
While I had the intake manifold off, I should have marked the wiring for the CkPS, now I do not know which wires they are.
Thanks for replying and for your assistance.
The CkPS from AZ is still suspect, ESPECIALLY if they gave you a CAM sensor and not a CRANK sensor. The two are physically identical, but not operationally interchangeable. Tach signal should jump to ~200 rpm and stay there while cranking, not jump around. I've also seen a slight mismatch between the stock wiring connector and non-stock sensors, with the electrical connection being sporadic.
Also, remember that the mounting bolt is single-use, so I hope you replaced it, or you may have some work cut out ahead of you. If the o-ring gets pinched because it was installed dry, it can prevent the sensor from seating fully, yielding sporadic signal.
Regarding the cables for your car, I don't know; I *think* I used a DCAN for my '08 but that is a different DME than yours, and I've only hooked it up a couple of times to my car in the last decade.
There is only a single wire down there for the CkPS, so I that should be self-explanatory.
I had some time to look at this in more depth. I tested the camshaft sensors and the signal coming back from the sensors was not oscillating from 0 to 5 V. It was a constant 1.44V. Replaced the sensors with OEM parts and now I have spark. I did not check to see if I have spark on all they cylinders. I only checked the front two and I have spark. I am planning in checking the rest as well. After I replaced the camshaft sensors, the tachometer reads about 200 RPM while cranking but the car still does not start. The engine wants to start but does not.
I checked the fuel pressure, and it is around 70 PSI. I also replaced the crankshaft sensor with Dealer parts and still nothing. I tested the crankshaft sensor wiring and I have 12V, Ground in the middle and 4.84V on the signal wire.
I also installed ISTA+ on my laptop (that was a project but got it done) and I am getting the following codes:
030095 - Power window, passenger door: no initialization.
133501 - Valvetronic servomotor: Overload current detected
133902 - DME, internal fault, Valvetronic: Undervoltage detect
133B08 - Valvetronic system: No Adjustment possible
134B02 - Valvatronic servomotor supply voltage: short circuit to earth
48010F - DTC button, Open Circuit.
800F2E - Low beam headlight, left, faulty or reignition for Xenon failed
800F57- Break light right faulty
C90D60- AUC sensor: internal sensor fault
D014A1 - Signal (actual position EPS 51.0.2) invalid transmitter EPS
I read that the valvetronic may or may not cause a no start condition and tested the connector to the motor. I am reading 12V, but it is constant voltage. I am not sure how to test it. I have not found anything in ISTA that can do a function test on the valvetronic system.
I looked at you tube videos and the valvetronic motor is activated as needed and there is not constant voltage at the motor.
Thoughts??
Thanks
Last night I looked at the Valvetronic motor position and the eccentric shaft was adjusted all the way advanced. I backed it off all the way and disconnected the eccentric shaft sensor. The engine started but immediately stalled. I did this a few times and I think it is related to the eccentric shaft sensor. I read a post that talked about it. The wired thing is that there are no codes for the sensor. Does anyone know how to test it?
Thanks,
Is the ESS connection soaked with oil?
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I checked the ESS and there is no oil. When I disconnect the sensor, the car starts but shuts off. This leads me to believe that the sensor might be bad. Is there any way to do a resistance test on the sensor?
Thanks,
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