R&R cylinder heads of M62TU engine in the car (BMW E39 540i)

[JimLev]

Old vanos usually won’t give you a beep. That was highlighted in red with the paper that came with the vanos.

[seagreen323i]

I never got any beeps and it worked out fine.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

[JimLev]

The pins get worn after years of making contact with the internal piston.
If you push the pin(s) in they will make contact with the piston when the center section is turned fully CCW, retarded.
BMW eventually discontinued using the pins, not really necessary. Just turn the center fully CCW and your good to go.

[haolibird]

I knew that it was not necessary to get the tone, but never knew why!

Thanks Jim.

- - - Updated - - -

ok...I know why it isn't necessary, just didn't know why I didn't get a f’n tone.

There...

[Chedley]

So, today I re-timed the engine with the GAS tools. I still did not get the damn tones beeping on the multi-meter, though I did turn the center fully CCW until the hard stop as per the GAS instructions.

Also, to verify the correct timing, I had to turn the engine at least 5 or 6 full turns, (not the 720-degree described in a few write-ups. But then, the crankshaft locking pin, and the VANOS timing tool engaged with the sensor wheels perfectly.
I guess I can call it a timed engine, and proceed to the reassembling. Yes ??

Another question: turning the engine seems too hard. I wonder if I need to pour some fresh oil in the cylinders thru the spark plug holes to ease it. I am mostly concerned about the initial startup after I put the whole damn thing back together.

[JimLev]

Are you turning the engine with the plugs out? It should turn fairly easy.
If you pour oil in the cylinders and then turn it over by hand the oil is just going to pool on the lower part of the pistons and cylinders.
Get a spray can of fogging oil, spray it in with the pistons at the bottom of the cylinders, it will coat all of the cylinder walls.

[Chedley]

No , I am turning it with all the spark plugs installed.

[BimmerBreaker]

It's going to be hard to turn the engine with the plugs installed because you are having to compress the air in the cylinders. You could remove them, and then turn the engine over and see if it's smoother/easier to rotate that way

[Chedley]

Well that explains why I felt it hard to turn the engine. Thanks.
Anyway, I think it is timed right.
Will proceed to put the covers and all back together….

[computiNATEor]

It's going to be hard to turn the engine with the plugs installed because you are having to compress the air in the cylinders. You could remove them, and then turn the engine over and see if it's smoother/easier to rotate that way

I did the rod bearings on my S85 without pulling the plugs, as it's a major PITA and I've watched S85 coils break while being removed before on cylinders 5 and 10. Requires a surprising amount of force. Turns out rings are good at their jobs.

[Chedley]

So, at least that confirms the cylinder rings are good and intact, not scored...

Another question to the veteran engine builders: Now that I am starting to put back the covers, replacing gaskets, O-rings and all; Which 10 mm or 13 mm bolts need some thread locker -blue or red- ? Or is it sufficient to clean them out then reinstall.

[computiNATEor]

Clean them, and use blue. Red is only for stuff like the oil pump nut or crank bolt that you never want to come back off.

[ross1]

So, at least that confirms the cylinder rings are good and intact, not scored...

Another question to the veteran engine builders: Now that I am starting to put back the covers, replacing gaskets, O-rings and all; Which 10 mm or 13 mm bolts need some thread locker -blue or red- ? Or is it sufficient to clean them out then reinstall.

No, not really.
Clean ALL the bolt holes(and bolts) then run the bolts in by hand to be sure the threads are clear, if not chase them.
I'll defer to the V-8 guys regarding thread locker. My sixes don't get any. Any bolts that go through to a water jacket should get sealer, silicone or "bolt prep" preferred .

[MotorMouth93]

You don't need thread locker (oil pump being the exception) just chase the threads and torque the bolts to spec. Not even the crank bolt, that thing is torqued to somewhere north of 500lbft so its not going anywhere, especially not on a lazy lump of a motor like an M62. If any bolts go through water or oil galleys you need thread sealer but I don't remember encountering any of those on the M62 last time I tore one down.

But yeah, the engine being hard to turn doesn't mean the cylinders are in good shape. When you get the motor back in the car pull the spark plugs and the DME fuse and crank the engine to build oil pressure before starting it, pulling the plugs drastically reduces the load on the bearings. While the plugs are out, do a compression test to check overall cylinder health if you want.

[riverdadd]

hey ched? u get her running??

[Chedley]

Almost there. The hard part is done and triple checked.
I still have to reinstall the upper timing covers, the intake manifold, the valve covers, and the front cooling system parts . I want also to replace a couple hoses “while you are there”.
The holidays , and the wet cold dark weather in our neck of the woods may delay a bit the first fire up of this sucker…

[kallekula]

Make sure you get those upper timing covers seated properly. Youtube or google it for tips if you don’t know already.

[Chedley]

Yep,,I am following the recommendations of the Beisan method (https://www.beisansystems.com/proced..._procedure.htm) for most of this job.
Their trick is to use the valve cover without gaskets to clamp down and align the correct seating of the upper timing covers. Is that what you are alluding to ??

[ross1]

Almost there. The hard part is done and triple checked.
I still have to reinstall the upper timing covers, the intake manifold, the valve covers, and the front cooling system parts . I want also to replace a couple hoses “while you are there”.
The holidays , and the wet cold dark weather in our neck of the woods may delay a bit the first fire up of this sucker…

Rootin for ya there, Hard Way Chedley

[kallekula]

Something like that yeah, think I used some washers too or something. It’s been a while and my memory isn’t what it used to be.

[JimLev]

Someone here used some long woodworking clamps to pull the upper covers down.

[ross1]

Someone here used some long woodworking clamps to pull the upper covers down.

I'd have paid to see that

[JimLev]

I'd have paid to see that

Really? They were clamps like this. https://www.amazon.com/IRWINQUICK-GR...s%2C127&sr=1-2

Me thinks this is a much better way to do it than using the valve cover.
No chance of pulling the studs out of the aluminum cam caps or the head.

[ross1]

Really? They were clamps like this. https://www.amazon.com/IRWINQUICK-GR...s%2C127&sr=1-2

Me thinks this is a much better way to do it than using the valve cover.
No chance of pulling the studs out of the aluminum cam caps or the head.

A creative and effective use of tools for sure, it just sounds funny.
I am endlessly amused by the trials, tribulations and trevails you V-8 guys suffer. Every time I have occasion to work under the intake of my sixes I bitch up a storm but then all I have to do is some reading here from you V-8 guys and I'll feel better. And Chedley's project? I'd rather slam my dick in the door.

[Jason5driver]

Really? They were clamps like this. https://www.amazon.com/IRWINQUICK-GR...s%2C127&sr=1-2

Me thinks this is a much better way to do it than using the valve cover.
No chance of pulling the studs out of the aluminum cam caps or the head.

What is the method described in the Bentley ?